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Turbo and EGT Gauge


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Hi all, New here so pardon the post if it has been asked.

 

I get my legacy in 4 days (straight from the factory! All mine!)...

 

I am going to install the Cobb AP and a panel filter on the drive home... and at some point in the future add all the other cool things (Uppipe, downpipe, Turboback exhaust... SSR competition wheels... you get the idea...:D )

 

So my concern quickly goes to the lack of a Turbo and EGT gauge to make sure I am not 'overdoing' anything and to take care of the investment.

 

Has anyone found any good gauges, and more importantly 'pods' that will work with the 2005 legacy GT (limited if it matters)??

 

I would prefer a pod mounted in the window support, and dislike the steering column mounts...

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The Defi BF series matches the interior gauges pretty well. I'm still working on a gauge pod for mine, probably in cubby hole or maybe on the steering column.

 

I don't know of any A-Pillar mounted pods, but I'm sure there has got to be one out there.

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Hey Wraith,

 

Make sure to stay within the limits of your break-in restrictions (under 4K rpm for first 1k miles). I don't know if you should put the AP Stage 1 on right away. You might want to break it in first under factory settings. The panel air filter should be no big deal.

 

I am also trying to mount some gauges. Looking to do a custom A-pillar install with 3 gauges (Boost, EGT, oil press.). Hope to have something done in 2-3 weeks. Right now, just going with AutoMeter gauges. The Defis are nice but EXPENSIVE!

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Hey Wraith,

 

Make sure to stay within the limits of your break-in restrictions (under 4K rpm for first 1k miles). I don't know if you should put the AP Stage 1 on right away. You might want to break it in first under factory settings. The panel air filter should be no big deal.

 

I am also trying to mount some gauges. Looking to do a custom A-pillar install with 3 gauges (Boost, EGT, oil press.). Hope to have something done in 2-3 weeks. Right now, just going with AutoMeter gauges. The Defis are nice but EXPENSIVE!

 

Those are good guidelines. I have heard so many different schools of thought on how long, and how to break in an engine/car. Some say 'don't drive at a consistent speed or RPM for more than 5-10 minutes at a time' all the way to 'hot seating' your rings (which requires you to redline your car several times).

 

How do you stay under 4k rpm though? The turbo was just getting good at that point!

 

This will be the 'hardest' 1k miles I have ever driven...

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Turbo is cranking away at that point... In fact, below 4K is much more impressive feeling that above 4K thanks to the electronic throttle and mid-range punch, at least from the I perspective.

 

-B

 

That will help some- at least I can get a bit of 'oomph' out of it.

 

I have had a civic ex (stock- no rice) for the last 10years (actually 3 different civics) and I have been dying for a car with some actual power. I drive the civic way harder than I should have. It sucked that my minivan was what I went to when I wanted a 'power' fix.

 

All that is about to change :) Must...resist... urge.... to...launch.....

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This should be good to see what your outcome will be. I had a Defi Dguage (still have it actually if you want it, minus the probe), and Cobb AP 2.5 on my WRX. I got a dyno/AFR and it ran lean. I put the guage in and confirmed what I was seeing even with my 91 map and actual 93 oct gas, I saw 1600+ degrees running on the casting buttong from cylinders 2+4. From what Ive read running 1600 degrees is not a good thing.

 

That car might have just been a case of the wrong combo of stuff put together and no one piece was faulty, but I dont know. I hope you get that setup going and get some readings for the legacy crowd.

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Just wait till someone clever creates a dual gauge pod that fits in the place of the cubby on the dash. I'm going to buy an extra cubby and start fabricating one out of carbon fiber. If they won't make one, then I will. ;) Two guages should do it for me.

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Just wait till someone clever creates a dual gauge pod that fits in the place of the cubby on the dash. I'm going to buy an extra cubby and start fabricating one out of carbon fiber. If they won't make one, then I will. ;) Two guages should do it for me.
You mean like this? At one point he was selling them. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4726&highlight=carbon+fiber
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I plan on putting a VDO universal pod and VDO vision boost/vac gauge in my car soon. I plan to mount it similar to how I had it in my last car- wedged between the windshield and the dash lip:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~nlehmann/pics/gti/int-overhead.jpg

 

http://home.comcast.net/~nlehmann/pics/gti/boostgauge.jpg

 

http://home.comcast.net/~nlehmann/gti/window.jpg

 

The gauge has white letters with a red needle so it should match the dash. Prices from egauges.com:

 

VDO Vision boost/vac gauge: $30

VDO single pod: $13

VDO tubing kit: $8

 

Obviously not the best solution, but cheap enough not to matter until a nice pod setup comes along.

 

-Nick

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  • 3 weeks later...
Break it in - it'll pay dividends - really... let everything seat.

Modern engines are broken in within the first few miles. Not the old V-8s of the 60's.

Just let the engine properly warm up before you rev the engine then drive it.

"The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.

 

In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction

due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.

 

The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used. This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past."

 

 

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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