Scooby2.5 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 I just installed the AVO offset Control Arm bushings on my Outback XT this weekend and wanted to write up a review and what I found. All in all I am very happy with these bushings compared to stock. It did give me the caster I was looking for and the steering response is much improved. Very much like others had posted. Stock OUTBACK alignment specs according to a Hunter alignment machine is as follows: (note they are different than the LGT) Front L&R Camber .67 Front L&R Caster 4.92 Total Toe 0.00 Rear Camber -.17 Total Toe -.13 Here is my alignment BEFORE the bushings: Front L&R Camber Left .42 Right .48 Front L&R Caster Left 5.28 Right 5.04 Total Toe 0.01 Rear Camber -.10 Total Toe -.12 Here is my alignment AFTER the Bushings: Front L&R Camber Left .61 Right .58 Front L&R Caster Left 5.68 Right 5.44 Total Toe 0.01 Rear Camber -.16 Total Toe -.14 As you can see my Caster was a bit higher than factory specs due to my car being lowered on megan racing coilovers about 1.5-2 inches. After putting on the bushings it did in fact change my caster about .4 degrees getting it that much closer to the LGT specs. I will note that it did move the wheel forward in the wheel well quite a bit and I was a bit nervous when I put the wheels back on. I was thinking it would rub. As you can see in the pictures it is much closer to the front and when you turn the wheel it is very close. I DO NOT have any rubbing at all though with these bushings and my car lowered about 1.5-2 inches. I am running the stock XT 17 inches wheels with stock sized Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires. 225x55R17 Also you can see in the pictures of the bushings that the outback does have a spacer at the top of the frame stud where the control arm mounts to the frame. Some people didnt seem to have this from what I gathered from other posts, but mine did. Hope this helps someone else out. I am not sure how larger tires and wheels would work on the outback with the offset bushings. I know some have went to a 245x45R18 and I am not sure they would clear. http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/44256/2880742980074087040S600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/14014/2896844640074087040S600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/41041/2955381060074087040S600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/43161/2002322200074087040S600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/5861/2528749620074087040S600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/43880/2299000110074087040S600x600Q85.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted November 30, 2008 Author Share Posted November 30, 2008 By the way I decided while I had the control arms off, I would put new ball joints in. It was a pain in the rear end to get them out, but I did succeed. I would recommend this if you take the control arms off for the bushings, you might as well do this as well. I had 91000 miles on mine and although they were not too bad, they were only 30 bucks a piece from jeremy sassaman at 5starperformace subaru dealer in doylestown Pa http://www.5-starperformance.com/servlet/StoreFront Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 Your front camber is positive? 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted November 30, 2008 Author Share Posted November 30, 2008 Yes my front camber is to factory Outback specs and yes that is different than the LGT. The reason I chose to leave it factory is I drive my car about 30000 miles per year and do not want to risk any tire wear. I know it would handle better more negative but putting it and leaving it to factory outback specs allowed me to get 73000 miles on my last set of tires. As much as I drive I have to align my car such that I get the best tire wear. Otherwise I would be putting tires on every year. I know someone is going to say "well you can go more negative and not get tire wear" but I am not inclined to take that risk with my new tires that are $175 a piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 FWIW We were able to get -0.5L/-0.7R, was 0.5L/0.3R. Caster is 5.2L/5.3R, unchanged. Total toe is 0.01, was 0.07. We are still getting outer wear, but the killer understeer is gone. The understeer was bad before the alignment, even with the JDM 20mm hollow RSB. What condition were the OEM LCA bushings? 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted November 30, 2008 Author Share Posted November 30, 2008 My stock bushings were torn a bit outside the part that looks torn from the factory :)I have an extended warranty and I figured they would not warranty them so I just decided to change them out. I don't really notice any more NVH at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natoli4 Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 hmmm, I really tight on where my tires are in the front wells. Adding this option I would surely rub. I have Yokohama Geolanders that are a full inch larger than stock. They are already super close. I'm thinking that camber bolts will work if I can find some. Does anyone know if Whiteline ones will work on the legacy/outback? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 hmmm, I really tight on where my tires are in the front wells. Adding this option I would surely rub. I have Yokohama Geolanders that are a full inch larger than stock. They are already super close. I'm thinking that camber bolts will work if I can find some. Does anyone know if Whiteline ones will work on the legacy/outback? If you go with the stardard bushing you should be fine. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 ^ Like he said go with the non offset either AVO or superpro and you should be fine. I personally like the AVO due to the lip they put on the metal part that presses into the control arm. Would seem it will hold the busing in better. JMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5.56x45 Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 The old bushings need to be pressed out right? How do the new ones install? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 You have to press the new ones in. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 I talked to Super Pro and the said they are coming back to the US. So we will have another 0ption. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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