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Intermittant 'no-start' issue...


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Although this is a '92 Subaru Legacy, AT, with over 207,000 miles on it, I'm hoping someone on this forum might have had this problem.

 

When I bought the Suby it had been sitting for nearly a year after the owner had upgraded to a newer one. It started and ran fine for a couple weeks, then it started having a starting problem.

 

What it seemed like, was if I got the engine warmed up and then shut it off, say I'd drive to the mall, the next time I tried to start it, I'd get nothing. The dash lights will come on, everything you'd expect to be on in the ACC position will work, but the starting motor will not kick over. After a couple months the problem just went away and I never had a starting problem again until this weekend (over a year later). It's exactly the same problem I saw last year.

 

If I wait 1-2 hours, then it will start right up without problem or hesitation. Even in the cold (-12°F) it will start easily if it's been sitting over two hours. But if I make a short trip, I have to sweat it, not knowing if it will start or if I have to wait 2 hours.

 

I have opened the fuse & relay box and wiggled every fuse, then swapped all the relays but that didn't seem to help. The CEL has not come on. Lastly, the dash lights dim when I'm having the problem and turn the key to start. But not really allot, perhaps 25%.

 

Anyone here know what this might be or what to check for? Bad starting motor maybe?

 

Thanks!:)

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Could be the starting motor, but there are a few contacts/switches that inhibits the starter. Since it's an AT try to move around the gear changer from park to neutral and back a few times. If that resolves the problem the next time it's just a switch that makes things miserable for you.
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I had this problem with an old '84 Subie wagon that I bought dirt cheap. Went through new starter, battery...still had issues. I also had to wait until it cooled down, then would start up no problem.

 

Ended-up taking it to an electrical specialist and they had to mod the wiring. Make sure you take it to place that has electrical experts so they don't fry the wires. Once they adjusted the wiring...never had any further issues.

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Next time it does that try disconnecting the battery. That might reset something.

 

Thanks for the idea, I'll try that the next time.

 

Could be the starting motor, but there are a few contacts/switches that inhibits the starter. Since it's an AT try to move around the gear changer from park to neutral and back a few times. If that resolves the problem the next time it's just a switch that makes things miserable for you.

 

I have tried moving the shift lever back and forth many times without any change. Also tried wriggling the steering wheel. The ignition switch feels nice and solid, the key is new and coincidentally, I broke my old key off in the ignition 3 days before this problem reappeared. Had a locksmith out to pull it out and make me a new key from the number stamped on the old key. Not sure that had anything to do with the problem reappearing or not.

 

 

Ended-up taking it to an electrical specialist and they had to mod the wiring. Make sure you take it to place that has electrical experts so they don't fry the wires. Once they adjusted the wiring...never had any further issues.

 

Any chance you might remember what that mod might have been? Something I could pass onto a shop?

 

Thanks everyone. Keep the ideas coming!

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The broken key shouldn't have caused it unless the locksmith was careless and accidentally partly disconnected something at the steering lock.

 

One way to determine if there is an error is to actually disconnect the control cable that comes from the ignition lock from the starter and then use a separate cable from the battery to the starter. Make sure that the gear selector is in Park first and then use the cable. If nothing happens then it's the starter, but if the engine turns over you have a separate problem.

 

Then it's up to you if you are going to mount a push button start or if you are going to follow up the wiring.

 

You can also use a test bulb on the starter cable to see if that gives you an indication. But you may need help from a friend then.

 

And be aware that it may be as simple as oxides on a contact. The gear selector shall be in Park or neutral to allow the starter to run.

 

From the schematics I have (Haynes Book 89100) I see that the cable from the ignition lock shall be blue/red to the inhibitor switch at the gear selector and red/yellow from the inhibitor switch to the starter.

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just a hunch, but is there any type of solenoid on these vehicles?? My dad has an '88 Ford Truck that we just keep a 6" jumper wire and jump accross the solenoid when this happens. His is more frequent, but it's the same problem. Turn key starts right up, shut it off 10 mins later and nothing. I'm not sure how the ignition system i set up in subarus....

As mentioned though, you could jump the starter to eliminate that.... or take it out and take it to your auto parts store (I know Advance will check them) all they do is hook it to 12v and make sure it turns.

Hope you get it figured out..... it's these types of problems that drive me crazy.... at least when your wheel falls off, you know where to look :rolleyes:

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Of course it's now -10°F here every day and difficult to work on the rig...I do have a friend with a heated garage that I can use soon so right now I'm gathering suggestions for what to look at.

 

The locksmith was real careful from what I can see...a friend took off the cowling before she came by but there isn't much harm that can be done in there...it's built pretty stout and the wires/connectors are well protected.

 

I guess my next moves will be to buy that Haynes book & find my old starter kit (a push button switch with clip leads, a 12V tester and other starting issue items), if the push button works to turn it over I could just leave it under the hood while I figure out what parts I need.

 

I guess the starting solenoid is probably on the starter itself but the book will help with finding that. It would be great if it's up where I can reach it.

 

Meanwhile, thanks folks, you've given me great advice, pointed me in the right direction and jogged my memory enough so I think I'll be able to figure it out.

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The starter solenoid is on the starter itself, it also engages the starter gear onto the flywheel gear.

 

The number of points that can fail are so few that it shouldn't take too long to isolate the problem. And the starter is relatively easy to access on our cars too, which helps.

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