DAC17 Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 We have a 2005 LGT, which needs rear brakes. What is a fair price to pay for new pads, rotors and labor? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 I'm a DIY type, but maybe this'll help a little ... I paid about $60-70 for the pad kit from subaruparts.com, took me an hour or two to install 'em (I was working very deliberately and carefully, I can't imagine the "official" time would be more than an hour, but who knows), and I didn't mess with the rotors. This is my old car ('97 Outback, not the one listed in my profile), which has 160K miles, I have replaced front pads twice and rear once, and I've NEVER once messed with the rotors (replaced them, or even had them "turned") and the brakes work great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawl Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 how are you certain you need new rotors? this is one of those things where if you know how to do it yourself, the cost of labor may seem ridiculous. car for sale. PM me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Check out the auto parts stores on line like advance auto parts. There are a lot of different pads you can buy. I like ceramic pads, the wheels stay cleaner. Bendix is a good brand. I think there like $50.00 ? You can take two 8mm bolts and thread them into the two holes in the rotors to remove them from the hub. You'll nee to remove the whole caliper first, There are 2 bolts with 14mm heads behind the backing plate that holes the calipers on. Re install with anti seize compound. Then take the rotors to a machine shop and have them turned, should be about $20.00 each or less. If you pay a shop plan on at least $200.00. Brakes are easy if you have all the tools, I do. Here http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Brakes.aspx 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Brakes are easy if you have all the tools, I do. I'd add that the disc pads can be changed with the most basic of mechanics tool sets - unless, possibly, you feel you need to pull the rotors and have difficulty doing so. As I said, I've never felt the need to pull my rotors, but I've always changed my pads before they wear too far down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Good to hear you've had good luck without turning the rotors. I have always had them turned, except for last Fall when I noticed the inside pads were thicker then the outside pads. So I swapped them to even out the wear. They worked fine all last Winter, no noise. I have since put new rotors that I bought from a member here and bendix ceramic pads all around and Litespeed slotted disc on the front. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iggybdawg Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 What's the right way to check the brake pads? do you just take off the wheel and look through the gaps in the calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iyalla Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 What's the right way to check the brake pads? do you just take off the wheel and look through the gaps in the calipers? Thats how I do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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