OK LONG THREAD! Seatbelt light, cv joints, noise in engine

[machgirl]

I have just purchased a 93 wagon about a month ago. We just had new brake pads and a fluid flush done, along with front struts.

Questions are now: the seatbelt light stays on all the time blinking its insane blink.

there's a whining noise in the engine that we dont know what is coming from..

getting an exhaust smell in the cabin from the dash vents as well as open windows, with no visible leaks

we believe the cv joints are going bad on the front, both left and right side have boots that are ripped. whenever we go over bumps and turn the car left or right at certain angles, the car makes popping sounds.

[RaGe]

better get those CV boots replaced before you end up having to replace the half shafts.

[machgirl]

What is a half shaft?

[RaGe]

axle's.

[machgirl]

Ok, that's what I thought, but never heard the term half shafts before. Is it better to just replace the whole thing or just the boots, we do not know which ones are good and which aren't, just that there's a boot on both front (left AND right) that are torn up.

 

What about the dang seatbelt light guys? Someone's GOTTA know!

[RaGe]

here is a thread i had made a while back when i first picked up my car. the sound made was that similar to putting rocks in a can and shaking it. this noise was produced when i was turning.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64699

 

i was running with a torn boot for so long that all of the grease was gone and ended up ruining my half shaft ( axel ), which resulted in a hefty price. though i am sure it would not cost as much to replace compared to a 93.

[machgirl]

So it sounds like its better to just replace the axles then. Damn. Don't have money to do that...

[RaGe]

i would inspect them. you can probably get by with getting the CV joint/boot kits.

[jonklein611]

Def want to replace the halfshafts with the cv joint. Since you're getting it torn down that far already, might as well get some preventative maint in

[machgirl]

Can't afford it. We are barely getting by as it is right now....unless its cheaper to get new half shafts with the boots already on them...

[rc0032]

bump so thread title comes true.

[Bdubs]

^^ Wiseguy

 

The Seatbelt light is blinking crazy because you have to have the automatic seatbelt shoulder strap latched when the car is moving.

 

If you do have it clicked in, I'd suggest messing with the mechanism there, and seeing if that would work.

The lap belt doesn't have a sensor, but the shoulder belt does.

[machgirl]

Yeah, both of them are clicked in. And still, the light stays on all the time, drives me freakin crazy lol. Guess I might have to replace the seatbelt latch?

[Bdubs]

It's not just the latch you would have to replace, it is the whole mechanism. It isn't cheap either, unless somehow you could find a used one.

 

http://bbs.legacycentral.org check this forum in the classifieds, create a want to buy thread, and tell them you are looking for the drivers side automatic seatbelt assembly. There are always people with random parts they are looking to get rid of.

[machgirl]

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. This car has become a huge headache....the dealer I bought it from did a quick fix on the rear end....it had been rear ended....the weld has cracked and I had to put in some silicon to seal it off from any moisture or dirt.....and I'm seeing lots of parts that were all original now I am having to replace because whoever had the car did not really do good maintenance on it.

I will check out that forum as you have suggested. I will see if I can find the part. Thanks.

[blackfang]

I replied in your other thread regarding checking the seatbelt mechanism.

[jrk2262]

Hey I feel your pain. I bought a 97 GT with 144K on the dial. I have had to replace the transmission a have done little tune up myself. I replaced the plugs and flushed the coolant w/a new thermostat. I feel your pain with the dealer as well. My guy told me the car was great. I had to wait 20 minutes for the car to show up from the detailer then completed a rather short test drive because I was late. Little did I know that 3rd gear started having problems only after you have been driving for a while. Oh well, you live and you learn.

Now I am having the same problem as you are w/the CV joints. I have a Russian dude in town that will replace both shafts for a little under $200. That is remanufactured shafts. I am going to try to replace them myself but that is mainly why I am posting here.

Does anyone know if you have to remove the tie rod ends to replace the half shafts? Are there any special instructions for this job? Any tricky Subaru thing I should know before proceeding?

Machgirl, remanufactured shafts are around $50 w/a $60 core charge. Just bring the old shafts back and they will refund your core charge. New shafts are $80 each with no core charge. Buying complete shafts are better than messing around trying to repack the boots. I have the repair book that all the chain auto parts stores sell by Haynes. It is pretty good and helps with the pulling of the shafts. I have also found a website with pictures of someone pulling the shafts. The pictures are not necessarily of a Subaru though and wanted to know any little secrets to pulling Subaru shafts. Good luck with your ride.

PS: look for cheap Subaru only shops on Craigslist. That is where I found my Russian friends.

[McCarthy69]

If youre talking about the fronts ( which I believe you are ) you dont have to remove the tierods. Remove the 2 bolts holding on the lower control arms. This keeps you from having to do an alignment. On the tranny side of the half shafts there will be a roll pin that you have to use a punch to get out. Once thats out refer to your book. all you will have to do is remove the axle nut and pry the shaft out of the steering knuckle and off the tranny. Just keep in mind that when you put the new shafts on you have to line the holes up (btw the holes are tapered so the roll pin will only go in one way so if the holes are lined up but the pin doesnt seem to go in then turn it 180 degrees.

[blackfang]

No need to disconnect a tierod to do an axle shaft.

 

PS. Stay away from aftermarket axles! I have seen too many people cut corners on cost only to have factory ones installed and spend more money.

[jonklein611]

Ok, now I feel dumb, how do you get the panel off around the head unit without braking it? This is on a 96 L Wagon.

 

I know how to get the panel off with the AC controls, but I gots a new cd player unit that I want to install. Any tricks to get the bottom panel off?

 

 

Thanks,

 

Jon

 

 

ooops i forgot to click new thread..... sorry for the hijack

[KnifeyMcShanker]

Take the cup holder off and you should be able to pry the panel off from the edges with a screwdriver.

[machgirl]

Well, still cannot figure out seatbelt thingy, so I'm going to leave it alone. I'm taking the car to a tire shop wedesday to have the entire front suspension checked out. As for the exhaust, have no clue.

[machgirl]

WHEEL BEARING/HUB on the right front side is bad, that's what's causing the vibration, the noises and drifting to one side....and $400 to get it fixed yikes!