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New mods on the way


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well right now i am letting go on the BOV thing. Should get my AP tomorrow. How hard is a short throw kit to install? I am still a little nervous about doing the installs. When you put on a new DP and CBE do you need new gaskets? If so do they come with the gaskets? Where can i find said gaskets?
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Me too Fonts. For me, it doesn't make sense to spend a bunch of money on exhaust bits and not spring for the extra $20 for a new gasket. It MAY not leak with the old gasket, but with a new gasket you have the peace of mind of knowing you have a good seal. And the last thing I want to do is have to pull the DP in a few months just to replace a stupid gasket.

 

Long story short: Put a new gasket on when you install the DP and CBE. You'll be happy you did.

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BOV is for the noise, not going to lie. But i dont want to pay 200+ for a noise thing. The spec b has RE050A's on it. really nice. so excited to see what this is going to be like. what is the site for the pdx maps?

 

Just say no to a replacement BOV simply for the noise factor. If you want more noise, remove the airbox silencer.

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Me too Fonts. For me, it doesn't make sense to spend a bunch of money on exhaust bits and not spring for the extra $20 for a new gasket. It MAY not leak with the old gasket, but with a new gasket you have the peace of mind of knowing you have a good seal. And the last thing I want to do is have to pull the DP in a few months just to replace a stupid gasket.

 

Long story short: Put a new gasket on when you install the DP and CBE. You'll be happy you did.

 

Well said.

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You may want to check out the Tuning Alliance store . They are running specials for Stage II tunes . $ 50 a pop. I just bought one a few days ago and have been happy with it. Pobably not as good as the PDX tunes but the service is great . You will get the tune in just a few hours and can run it the same day.
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BTW go to the crucial racing website and buy their copper gaskets. They are a little pricey but well worth it. Also recommended is to get the DP wrapped for heat retension. JSC speed sells a nice black wrap , ties and paint to finish them off. It complements the Cobb heatshield and further reduces underhood/intake temps.
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yeah i will give a full review when i am done. take step by step pictures, and before and after exhaust tones. put the ap on last night. noticeable difference. i am happy with it. when i go to run 0-60 times though, it dispalyed the numbers the first time, but i did not do a hard launch. second and third time i did a hard launch and it did not display numbers. my boost is up to about 17.5 psi at 4810 elevation. that is with a stock stage one map.
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Here is my mod list in order:

 

First wave:

Intake

Cat-Back

 

Second Wave:

DP

AP

Protune

 

Third Wave:

Coilovers

Headers

UP

TMIC

 

Next Wave:

Brake Upgrade (DBA 4000, Hawk HPS pads)

Sways and Links

 

And so on and so forth until im DEAD BROKE!!!!!! :lol:

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Sorry to say, but I disagree with about 80% of your progression of modding there...

 

Stock suspension is garbage IMO, and I would strongly recommend upgrading before going stg 2. I would start with sways, then struts/springs or coilovers, reinforced sway brackets, & our endlinks are pretty robust...

 

Then power. UP if needed, AP, Catted DP, TMIC, tune, and so on...

 

Brakes. Good fluid & pads, OEM rotors are fine at stg 2...

 

Intake & CBE aren't nessesary/useful until into 300WHP+, especially when not tuned for them. I have a CBE on my mainly stock LGT, but only because I like to actually hear the motor...

 

Once again, my $0.02...

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I want a well-rounded LGT, plus I'm a DIY'er, which makes suspension an easy/safe choice...

 

BUT, It is down right scary for me to think people are going stg 2 with an otherwise stock suspension... I found the limits of the suspension on my drive home from the dealership, which is waay under the power level of this car, stock IMO...

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Makes sense to do the DP/UP at the same time. Intake is questionable unless you are going for sound. In my opinion. start with Rear sways and springs (the cheap route), Upgrade to hawk HPS pads (I did the DBA rotor upgrade on the fronts) then UP/DP/CBE engine tune management
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Makes sense to do the DP/UP at the same time. Intake is questionable unless you are going for sound. In my opinion. start with Rear sways and springs (the cheap route), Upgrade to hawk HPS pads (I did the DBA rotor upgrade on the fronts) then UP/DP/CBE engine tune management

Well, my car is an 07, so it came with a catless UP. I wasn't necessary to replace it just to go stage 2.

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