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Installing a line out converter, where do I hook it to...?


Wooderson

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I dont think there are any speaker wires in the trunk since our rear speakers are located in the doors. Lots of cars do have speakers in the rear deck and therefore could tap there but we are not that lucky.

 

Best bet is to pull your headunit, tap the wires (or buy the forward/reverse harness from http://geocities.com/svxdc/ so you dont have to mess with splicing or taping factory wires) and just run your RCA's to the trunk.

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I dont think there are any speaker wires in the trunk since our rear speakers are located in the doors. Lots of cars do have speakers in the rear deck and therefore could tap there but we are not that lucky.

 

Best bet is to pull your headunit, tap the wires (or buy the forward/reverse harness from http://geocities.com/svxdc/ so you dont have to mess with splicing or taping factory wires) and just run your RCA's to the trunk.

 

Thanks for the reply. Thats what I really didn't want to do. But I guess I'll have to. I could have sworn I read that there were wires in the trunk that I could tap into. But yea, that didn't make much sense to me as the speakers are in the doors. Maybe I read wrong.

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Im not sure how the wires are routed in the cabin for the 2 doors, but you would need to find a point where you could get both L and R of the Rear channel together for a LOC to work (I think)... since the bass track could be sent to different channels at different times during a song and what not.. thats why most ask you to hook up L and R, and usually both Front and Rear. Pulling the head and doing it behind there is the easiest you can get.. especially if you buy those harnesses I linked... you can do all the wiring even before pulling the head unit. Cakewalk.
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Is that wiring harness the same for installing a single din dvd player. I had seen a diagram for the wiring for an aftermarket dvd player but I can't seem to find it anymore. Any help would be appreciated I have had my Pioneer DVD player collecting dust for two years in my closet I'm ready to do something with it. And also what I would need to do to wire in a seperate Vehicle Dynamics Processor that is similar to a Nav unit with a Gyro and needs to hook up to Speed Sensor Wire.
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yeah, it is.. but you only need 1 side of it I believe.. you need the side that takes the factory harness connector and gives you the wires which you would then wire the Pioneer harness to. That then plugs into your Pioneer deck. Keeps you from having to cut the factory connector off, or using vampire connectors on your factory wires.
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I just tapped into the speaker wires right behind the CD player. I ran speaker wire from there to underneath my glove box, which is where I put my LOC. Then I just ran from RCAs from there to the trunk.
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I just tapped into the speaker wires right behind the CD player. I ran speaker wire from there to underneath my glove box, which is where I put my LOC. Then I just ran from RCAs from there to the trunk.

 

I think it makes a lot more sense to run the higher-level (and lower

impedance) speaker signals back to the trunk and put the LOC there

next to the amp - rather than running the lower-level/higher-impedance

outputs of the LOC that long distance route from glovebox to trunk.

Disclaimer: I'm not expert on car audio, but the above follows from

basic electronics. But hey, if it works ok ...

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Running RCA's from front to back is much more common than running speaker wires from the head back to the trunk. But guys with cleansweeps and amps that accept high level inputs do it all the time, so I guess its just up to preference. I found it easier and cheaper to run a long RCA back.
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Sure can. I actually just bought one used off a member here.

 

Its actually a better LOC than most general ones you buy at an audio shop. Does some signal processing to get around the factory radios EQ'ing, which lowers bass as you raise the volume. There is another, newer one out, that is meant for "full range" systems.. an amp for highpass and for the lowpass side.

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By the way how does that forward and reverse harness works without tapping the wires? Do I have to buy both?

 

Sorry for the noobie question.

 

It is basically an extension harness. You have 2 plugs.. one that will plug into the factory harness (that usually plugs right into the radio) and one that will now plug into the radio, instead of the factory plug. So its a patch cable of sorts with 2 ends. In between are wires, to which you can use crimps, solder, vampire clips, etc.. on and not worry about possibly screwing up your factory wiring harness.. that to work on or replace could be a major hassle/expense.

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  • 1 month later...
You can tap the 12 volt constant from your amp - as for the turn on signal, the re-q has an auto turn on when it senses a signal from your radios speaker signal

 

I think the smartengage is not compatible with our HU's as it is not working on mine.

 

I tapped, the constant to the 12V memory lead of the HU, my problem is that once I turn the key to accessory, immediately the re-Q turns-on too even if the HU is still turned off. I tried tapping the remote-in wire to the power antenna lead and same result.

 

Anybody has a solution for this?

 

@CzarDestructo: Thanks for the link, but I believe he wired his LOC power lines different to mine...

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I think the smartengage is not compatible with our HU's as it is not working on mine.

 

I tapped, the constant to the 12V memory lead of the HU, my problem is that once I turn the key to accessory, immediately the re-Q turns-on too even if the HU is still turned off. I tried tapping the remote-in wire to the power antenna lead and same result.

 

Anybody has a solution for this?

 

@CzarDestructo: Thanks for the link, but I believe he wired his LOC power lines different to mine...

 

I'm using the smart engage on mine without a problem

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