Radiator steeming!

[gathermewool]

Car: '97 LGT 185k miles

 

Back in the beginning of March I noticed a small wisp of steam coming from the radiator. I was losing about an inch in the reservoir every week. I can't remember what I used now, but I did some research and found a good coolant flush. I ran that through the engine for a while, flushed it a few times and added fresh fluid along with a half bottle of Stop Leak (per instructions on bottle). For 4 months now, not a single problem.

 

I just changed out the transmission fluid last night and went to check the level warm when I noticed steam issuing from the radiator, seemingly in the same spot as before.

 

Questions:

 

1. Should I flush it all out again and refill with another half bottle?

------I would just drain and add more stop leak, but I'm afraid that the stop leak might be building up in the coolant channels, causing local hot spots.

 

2. I don't want to keep adding fluid every few months, so a radiator replacement might be the best option. I've looked around and found prices from $130+. I have no idea what the differences are.

 

3. I believe there is an ATF cooler line to the radiator. Does replacing the radiator mean that I'll have to drain all of the fluid? Amsoil is expensive...http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/images/smilies/sadbanana.gif

[Bdubs]

There are just cooling lines for AT cars, no draining of the ATF is involved.

 

All you need to do is drain the radiator first, then disconnect the hoses, unbolt all the brackets holding the radiator in. It's relatively simple.

 

If you just flushed your system and have all new stuff, you can actually reuse what you drain out if you have a clean container. You may have to add a little more to make up for some spillage, but it sure beats refilling the whole system all over again.

[gathermewool]

Now I just need to decide whether to replace or try my chances with a flush and refill with Stop Leak. When I left work today there was no steam issuing from the radiator. I'm not sure if the metal expanded and closed the hole or a big of the previously added Stop Leak found its way into and stopped up the hole....we'll see what happens, I guess.

 

Any idea of a good vendor for a radiator. I've seen it as cheap as $160 I think at partsbin, and as expensiv as $240 on subarugenuineparts....

 

Thanks for the help!

[KnifeyMcShanker]

You could always just try and repair the radiator. I'd take it out and find for sure where the hole it, and then use something to seal it. It's worth a shot, a couple bucks for a pack of JB weld or something is a lot better than $130.

[Bdubs]

I had a hole in my radiator before. It sucks. You think you fixed it, then it leaks again, so you try something else which fixes it for a short while, then it leaks again.

Have you priced one at Advanced auto or Auto Zone? Genuine OEM radiators are expensive, I can't see any harm in using an aftermarket one.

[gathermewool]

I thought about it and came to the same conclusion as Bdubs. I don't have the time to repair this thing, AND THEN replace it wen the repair doesn't work. I ordered a radiator from 1800-radiators for just over $150. It's a Spectra brand. Has any one heard of these? I left the model number at work, but I googled it and couldn't find it. The guy from 1800-radiators said it was a good brand. I also didn't see any negative comments for them at the better business bureaus.

 

Any one have any ideas.

 

I've also been struggling with a P0400 code: EGR malfunction, if any one is knowledgeable on that. I notice a leak on the exhaust tube nut at the inlet to the EGR valve from the exhaust manifold. I pulled the EGR valve and cleaned it (not TOO mjuch carbon build up), but the CEL is still there. The solenoid and trasnducer work just fine since the EGR operates when I hit the throttle from the engine compartment. I also checked the MAP sensor, and it reads normal. Any ideas?

[jonklein611]

Did you clear the CEL and then it came back?

[gathermewool]

I've cleared it MANY times. As an update:

 

1. On Saturdy I cleaned the EGR valve and checked for adequate flow through the EGR supply line from the exhaust manifold. I didn't have time after cleaning and reassembly to clear the code, but the system seemed to work MUCH better. Before, when manually lifting the EGR valve while idling, the engine would bog down slightly and run a bit rough. After the cleaning, the engine would almost stall, recover and then run very rough. I didn't do much driving the next day, Sunday, but the CEL, which had been on for months now was clear Monday morning. Hurray! Unfortunately, it came back on during the drive home. : ( I haven't had a chance to pull the code, but it was been nothing but the same every one of the dozen times I've checked over the months.

 

2. After reassembling the valve I checked for leaks and operation. The engine had cooled by then so i couldn't operate it using the throttle, but I did the aforementioned checks by hand. While doing so I noticed a stream of 'air' past my finger. I felt around and found that a good amount of exhaust was leaking from the nut at the inlet to the EGR valve. Maybe this is my smoking gun? The final piece to the puzzle? Or maybe it just started leaking recently, after I broke loose the EGR valve bolts.

 

I don't have the time to replace the valve for another couple of weeks. Think a good bead of high temp RTV would hold if I let it cure all day?

[gathermewool]

to clarify, I meant the nut that attaches the line from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve inlet, not the EGR valve itself. Hope this helps.

[jonklein611]

If RTV is good enough for power plant turbines, it's good enough for your suby.....

 

 

 

yes thats our turbine decking, and the orange stuff = rtv.... good inch thick too.

[gathermewool]

You've made the decision for me, my friend. I'm off to the shop now to do the deed!