Xenonk Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 you can do anything from 75 lbs.ft. to 85 lbs.ft for street use.. I usually do 85 just in case because after 25 miles, they do loosen a bit (hence the retorquing after the 25 miles of driving). Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlierh2 Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 you can do anything from 75 lbs.ft. to 85 lbs.ft for street use.. I usually do 85 just in case because after 25 miles, they do loosen a bit (hence the retorquing after the 25 miles of driving). Ok now ive heard retorque after 25, 50, 100 and 1000. Ive personaly chosen 100 but damn thats a wide spread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starlabs Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Well, according to my 2005 manual, it says approx 600 miles... Then again... who listens to the manual anyway? Or even read it? Tire wear varies from wheel to wheel. To maximize the life of each tire and ensure that the tires wear uniformly, it is best to rotate the tires every 7,500 miles (12,500 km). Rotating the tires involves switching the front and rear tires on the right hand side of the vehicle and similarly switching the front and rear tires on the left hand side of the vehicle. (Each tire must be kept on its original side of the vehicle.) Replace any damaged or unevenly worn tire at the time of rotation. After tire rotation, adjust the tire pressures and make sure the wheel nuts are correctly tightened. After driving approximately 600 miles (1,000 km), check the wheel nuts again and retighten any nut that has become loose. -=- Livin life at 140 BPM -=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDork Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 I always crank my lugs to 100 lbs for track days and at least 90 for autocrossing or just swapping out rims. Keefe why overtorque for track days??? overtorquing can actually reduce the clamping power of the bolts and increases the chance youll have lug failure since you will actually stretch the bolts. i hope you're regularly replacing your lugs (every year) considering the stress you're putting on them by swapping in and out often and regularly overtorquing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL PAALO Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 this thread reminded me that I need to check the calibration on mine ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KA81 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 it is only suggested to retorque after 25 miles for aftermarket wheels if it seems like it came loose, i suggest calling the person who installed them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 why overtorque for track days??? overtorquing can actually reduce the clamping power of the bolts and increases the chance youll have lug failure since you will actually stretch the bolts. i hope you're regularly replacing your lugs (every year) considering the stress you're putting on them by swapping in and out often and regularly overtorquing. 85 lbs and 100 lbs is the limit for stock bolts, anything more (and you could torque it to 120) would be real overkill. you can lose up to 10 lbs after a drive around the track, and in those 20 mins/20 miles on the track, you can put some stress on the lugs and they can back out. It's not just the lugs that you would need to replace, you would also want to replace the studs as well. 85 lbs is a good number to use and 25 miles is a good time to retorque them. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I checked all of my (wheel) nuts after Christmas, and when I got home a few days laterv (all highway miles), one was missing from my front right wheel... I'm thinking someone stole it 'cos there's no effin' way it coulda fallen off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Bumping an old post which has save me a decent amount of $$$ Just ordered a torque wrench and a breaker bar from Harbor Freight! Yep, those are frequently on sale for $10. A few years back, i bought three of them (one for each car). Basically, that's all I use those torque wrenchs for, I have another old Sears that I use for engine stuff. They come in a nice, compact plastic box. For "occasional" tools and other stuff, Harbor Freight rocks!! I was just at their new store near here in Pontiac MI yesterday. Actually got away with only spending under $4!! FWIW, I do 90 #s on both my stock and Rota wheels. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 ^ ever BEEN in a car where that lost a lug nut while driving? it's damn scary At least with a Subaru, you have 5 lugs.. a civic DX only has 4 Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDork Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 ^ ever BEEN in a car where that lost a lug nut while driving? it's damn scary At least with a Subaru, you have 5 lugs.. a civic DX only has 4 did it happen to be torqued at 100 ft-lbs? :icon_tong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDork Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 85 lbs and 100 lbs is the limit for stock bolts, anything more (and you could torque it to 120) would be real overkill. you can lose up to 10 lbs after a drive around the track, and in those 20 mins/20 miles on the track, you can put some stress on the lugs and they can back out. It's not just the lugs that you would need to replace, you would also want to replace the studs as well. 85 lbs is a good number to use and 25 miles is a good time to retorque them. just so long as you realize more is not better when it comes to torquing lugs. "overkill" doesnt really make sense here because going over spec will actually INCREASE your chance of a lug backing out or failing. i track my car and torque to spec. never had any bolts lose any torque (my m coupe uses bolts instead of studs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 did it happen to be torqued at 100 ft-lbs? :icon_tong Friend: "I only hand tighten, I just stood on the cross-bar" Me: "uh....." 20 mins later Friend: "Oh crap why is the car shaking?!" Me: "uh, flat tire?" 1 min later BAM! Friend: "uh, WTF?!" Me: "pull over and get out of the car" 10 seconds later Friend: "Hello AAA? I need to tow" Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 just so long as you realize more is not better when it comes to torquing lugs. "overkill" doesnt really make sense here because going over spec will actually INCREASE your chance of a lug backing out or failing. i track my car and torque to spec. never had any bolts lose any torque (my m coupe uses bolts instead of studs). 85 lbs should be the upper limit of the torque specs (last time I checked on my Chilton's 2005 book). Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDork Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 85 lbs should be the upper limit of the torque specs (last time I checked on my Chilton's 2005 book). so you agree torquing to 100 is a bad idea? seems like a lot of people take what you say as fact...wouldnt want a bunch of people overtorquing their lugs because of one guy on the internet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 so you agree torquing to 100 is a bad idea? seems like a lot of people take what you say as fact...wouldnt want a bunch of people overtorquing their lugs because of one guy on the internet. A 100#s isn't gonna hurt. What hurts is when the tire store gorillas torque them way north of that with the impact wrench. You can tell if you have to stand on a breaker bar to get the lugnuts loose. FWIW, I always reset the torque after I have wheels installed at a tire store, even if I watch them use a torque wrench (local Discount Tire stores have been good about this). If nothing else, it helps if I ever have to change a tire on the road....I want to be able to remove the lugnuts!!!! Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I agree about them crazy people that just torque too lightly or overkill it.. for 100 lbs which can loosen at the track as much as 10 lbs.. I am ok with 90 lbs of torque on the lugs... on a 5x100 bolt pattern with an M12x1.25, 100 lbs is at a high limit, but nothing that would be considered PWN3D. for everyday driving, 75 to 85 is just fine (and THAT'S what I am agreeing to). BTW, the metal isnt the only thing in concern, it's also the surface area and the thread depth vs thread pitch that also plays a part in knowing how much to torque. Typical center-lug wheels on a Porsche GT3 is 330 lbs.ft.. can't say that is too much Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDork Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 I agree about them crazy people that just torque too lightly or overkill it.. for 100 lbs which can loosen at the track as much as 10 lbs.. I am ok with 90 lbs of torque on the lugs... on a 5x100 bolt pattern with an M12x1.25, 100 lbs is at a high limit, but nothing that would be considered PWN3D. for everyday driving, 75 to 85 is just fine (and THAT'S what I am agreeing to). BTW, the metal isnt the only thing in concern, it's also the surface area and the thread depth vs thread pitch that also plays a part in knowing how much to torque. Typical center-lug wheels on a Porsche GT3 is 330 lbs.ft.. can't say that is too much you talking about the carrera gt? pretty sure the gt3 (and all 996's) is around 92-96 iirc. we'll have to agree to disagree i guess. overtorquing, in my opinion, is always a bad idea. any wheel expert will tell you to torque the lugs to factory specs at the track and to check them after every session. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 you talking about the carrera gt? pretty sure the gt3 (and all 996's) is around 92-96 iirc. I meant the single lug race cars Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wangspeed Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 80-85 is good. It's bad to overtorque. The typical reason why street car designed wheels loosen on track is paint/powdercoating flaking off at the lug nut/bolt seating area. Get that paint or powder coat off BEFORE you go out, and it will not loosen. Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDork Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 80-85 is good. It's bad to overtorque. The typical reason why street car designed wheels loosen on track is paint/powdercoating flaking off at the lug nut/bolt seating area. Get that paint or powder coat off BEFORE you go out, and it will not loosen. Warren good advice...NASA norcal is very strict with people who have kinesis wheels. several instances of bad wrecks due to the finish around the lugs. dremel with sandpaper on low speed will rough it up nicely from what i hear...not that i would feel good taking a dremel tool to a $4K set of wheels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lakoko Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 I just torque them to 85 including the wheel lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawlwawl06 Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I know its an old thread, but I need to change my wheels soon, and right now I have aftermarket Rotas with the locking lug nuts, would a torque wrench be the most sufficient way to remove the wheels? Or is the torque wrench only for tightening them? The last place I went to really torqued these suckers down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I know its an old thread, but I need to change my wheels soon, and right now I have aftermarket Rotas with the locking lug nuts, would a torque wrench be the most sufficient way to remove the wheels? Or is the torque wrench only for tightening them? The last place I went to really torqued these suckers down. Even though you can change a torque wrench so that it will loosen a nut, it is advisable to only use it for tightening so you don't damage it when loosening overly tight lugs. Use a breaker bar for removing them. It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawlwawl06 Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 thanks for the answer to my newb inquiry, really appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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