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OEM break job, cost, advice


LawGT

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Hi guys,

 

Long time member, but been in hiding for a while ;). I get a vibration when breaking at high speeds. I know (I did search ;) ) that I may just have to perform the beading procedure for the pads (original OEM, 2005 car has ~17k miles) and that it may go away. I will do the procedure this weekend (btw, if anyone knows of a strech of road in downtown chicago that may allow me to perform several progressive 60-5 stops w/o getting rear ended, pls do let me know ;) ).

 

Now, in case the beading procedure does not cure my ills, I got a quote from mid city subaru (chicago) of about $350 for a front brake job (2 hrs labor, new pads, rotor resurface, greasing, etc; but I forgot to ask if it included new fluid, would it normally?). After searching, I take that is a fair estimate. Is is?

 

second question: should I buy the hawk HPS pads (which after searching I understand are better than OEM) and have the dealer install those instead of OEM?

 

Third: should I just install the pads myself? I thinkn I would feel ok doing so (done it before in my old integra), but however, I do not feel comfortable bleeding and changing fluid (yes, it might be easy, but I've never done it and would not want to mess that one up ;) ).

 

thanks, and feel free to chime in with thoughts.

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There is no place that I know in the city you can bead your pads. FW and I use to use 94 but with the construction thats out. I now use Addison in front of the Lane tech :lol:

 

I like my hawk pads with OEM rotors.

 

Pads and rotors are easy to do on the LGT. ~1hr is they are cold.

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i would shop around from prices and purchase the pads yourself. i bought hawk pads and brought them to my mechanic to install. He also turned/cut the front rotors all for $190.

 

Price was fair IMO and made life much easier then DIY since I had to get the rotors cut. $350 for just the front seems a bit high, and most likely they will not change your brake fuid but ask to be sure.

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I can help you out on a weekend if you want to tackle it yourself. I would do the HPS pads, front and rear, which will help with the pad deposits the OEM's like to leave behind. As far as the rotors, you could have them turned off the car at a parts store while the car is in the air, or buy new OEM's for pretty cheap. Bleeding/flushing is easy, once the car is up in the air.

 

As far as open stretches of road... I had a killer location up north on Willow, but as RC mentioned, the construction has eliminated that spot. Now I use the road behind WGN, ironically 1 block from Addison and Lane Tech. You need to do a drive by first as CPD seems to provide 1-2 squad cars to WGN for security and more times than not, they''re sitting right by the side entrance.:lol:

ignore him, he'll go away.
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I'd be surprised if you really need the rotors turned at 17k. I've never had I'll effects not turning. My LGT rotors are fine at 46k, only down 0.54mm of 2mm in front, and very evenly worn. I won't turn them when I switch to Hawk HPS 10k from now.

 

I have had to rebed the stock pads a few times.

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I'd be surprised if you really need the rotors turned at 17k.

It would only really be necessary of the deposits can't be removed with a re-bed. Certainly there's plenty of thickness left at 17K.

ignore him, he'll go away.
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Thanks guys. I was going to the dealer on Tuesday, but now I can't (forgot I have softball game on Tuesday). I will re-bead the pads tonight to see if that takes care of it. I'm thinking somewhere by the United Center might work, or even in one of the lots.

 

Fweasel, thanks for the offer. I'll visually inspect the pads tonight to see if they need replacing. I'll keep you posted. You live in the northside of the city, right? I'm close to downtown, in the westown/ukranian village hood.

 

thanks

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Hi guys,

 

Long time member, but been in hiding for a while ;). I get a vibration when breaking at high speeds. I know (I did search ;) ) that I may just have to perform the beading procedure for the pads (original OEM, 2005 car has ~17k miles) and that it may go away. I will do the procedure this weekend (btw, if anyone knows of a strech of road in downtown chicago that may allow me to perform several progressive 60-5 stops w/o getting rear ended, pls do let me know ;) ).

 

Now, in case the beading procedure does not cure my ills, I got a quote from mid city subaru (chicago) of about $350 for a front brake job (2 hrs labor, new pads, rotor resurface, greasing, etc; but I forgot to ask if it included new fluid, would it normally?). After searching, I take that is a fair estimate. Is is?

 

second question: should I buy the hawk HPS pads (which after searching I understand are better than OEM) and have the dealer install those instead of OEM?

 

Third: should I just install the pads myself? I thinkn I would feel ok doing so (done it before in my old integra), but however, I do not feel comfortable bleeding and changing fluid (yes, it might be easy, but I've never done it and would not want to mess that one up ;) ).

 

thanks, and feel free to chime in with thoughts.

 

ill do front brakes for 190 for satisfied pro ceramic and 200 for hawk pads. installed and machining the rotor included. (price may very depending the the cost for machining rotors.)

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Thanks guys. I was going to the dealer on Tuesday, but now I can't (forgot I have softball game on Tuesday). I will re-bead the pads tonight to see if that takes care of it. I'm thinking somewhere by the United Center might work, or even in one of the lots.

 

Fweasel, thanks for the offer. I'll visually inspect the pads tonight to see if they need replacing. I'll keep you posted. You live in the northside of the city, right? I'm close to downtown, in the westown/ukranian village hood.

 

thanks

Yep, North side. Your pads will check out fine, visually, but they still suck and an upgrade to aftermarket is always a good idea, IMO.:)

ignore him, he'll go away.
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