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Just bought an older Legacy. What do I need to do?


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So I am thinking I might have a bad wheel bearing. I was shopping the other day and when I pulled out it sounded like I had a flat tire, you know the "thud, thud, thud" sound but not as bad as it should have been with a flat tire. So I pull over and check everything and it's ok. I need to jack it up today to check the rear rotors and pads anyway so I will check the bearings.
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Ok so I just went out to try to remove the cabin air filter... I am lost completely. I thought it would be relatively easy but it looks too daunting for right now. I looked at some of the guides on here and am wondering if it's different for an older model legacy? So I snapped some pics for now. I will take more as I get her cleaned up and ready to go. Don't mind the dirt. I don't want to detail the car until all of the dirty work is done. :)

 

 

 

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6378/mybaby001qw4.jpg

http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/5521/mybaby0021dr3.jpg

 

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/766/65248880tg8.jpg

 

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I am in Armstrong County, which is north of Pittsburgh. So you are on the other side of the state. Yeah I think at this point I am going to just wait to see if anything happens with the head gaskets. I am broke and can't really afford to just plop down over a grand for something that *may happen *knocks on wood*
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Where in PA do you live? I live in Lancaster County and had my head gaskets (preventative as far as I know) done at

Stan's Auto's in York for around $1300 I think it was which included timing belt/water pump also.

 

That is what I would call unnecessary. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

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Good looking Legacy. I just bought an '02 sedan and I wouldn't trade it for all the Honda's in the world! Plus it gets way better milage than my old Jeep YJ. I was wondering if you could post some pics of the cabin air filter when you change it....Kind of step by step how to....I want to change mine as well and it would be handy to see how its done. Thanks.
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I think there is a coolant additive for that year. I would check with the dealer to be sure.

 

A coolant for a particular year? Hmmm...

 

 

Yeah I will post pics for the cabin air filter if I can figure it out myself. Haha!

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http://www.subaruproblems.com/

 

This website has a copy of the service bulletin sent in 2004 to the owners of 99-02 models addressing the special coolant additive.

 

Ok, I will call the subaru dealer and see what they say about it. I'm not sure if this car has already had it done or not because I am not noticing any leaks yet. I laughed at the website about a lemon law for the subaru over a coolant leak? That seems to be a bit crazy.

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OK, for everyone telling you to replace a headgasket, dont replace it till its needed. Iv worked in both BMW and Honda dealerships and i have never heard of someone replacing a head gasket just because. Unless you warp the head from overheating, your going to see signs that your HG is failing (hesitation, blowing white smoke, loss of coolant and oil in coolant\vice versa). Your hard braking should of been because of glazed rotors and should of been fixed with the rotor/pad replacement. You should def do the timing belt/WP if you do anything, im not sure if the 2.5 is an interference engine or not but if the TB fails your gunna have a huge repair bill. What other problems did ya have?
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OK, for everyone telling you to replace a headgasket, dont replace it till its needed. Iv worked in both BMW and Honda dealerships and i have never heard of someone replacing a head gasket just because. Unless you warp the head from overheating, your going to see signs that your HG is failing (hesitation, blowing white smoke, loss of coolant and oil in coolantvice versa). Your hard braking should of been because of glazed rotors and should of been fixed with the rotor/pad replacement. You should def do the timing belt/WP if you do anything, im not sure if the 2.5 is an interference engine or not but if the TB fails your gunna have a huge repair bill. What other problems did ya have?

 

Yeah the brake problem was basically fixed when I replaced the rotors and pads. So you think I should definitely replace the timing belt? Isn't the water pump expensive to replace?

 

Right now one thing I am observing is the coolant level. It seems to suck it down a lot. I filled it up a little past full today before a long trip and after the trip it was below min level. I am going to see if it stays there over the next few days as it has seemed to do it before. That's the level it was at when I got it and it stayed there for a few days before I filled it up. My dad was saying that it could be just where the engine runs it at and anything over it may get blown off.

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Id say definatley do a a timing belt if your over 80K. Not spending 250$ and risking paying upwards of 2K$ on an engine revamp is just plain crazy. New timing belts on Subies are rated for 100k but i think the Pre-2005 were only 80K. Iv seen cars run 150K on OEM belts but car manufacturers want to cover thier butts by calling a replacement at 80K when they can well exceed that.

 

Waterpumps have fins that eventually wear down from friction, thus making the waterpump less effective. Its another maintenance item that dosnt need to be done at 80K but shops do it because they are in the area and have parts off when replacing the timing belt. Oil lasts at least 5K miles nowadays but people still replace it at 3k to keep it at optimal operating levels so why not do it for the rest of your car?

 

As for your coolant level you should fill it to the max mark and let the car run for about 15 min (optimal temp). Check to see if has overflowed on the ground at all due to expansion or if your possibly leaking from a hose. If you dont see anything on the ground you should then check your oil and see if you have any coolant in the oil (it will bead up on your dipstick, and smell unlike plain used oil). If neither of them are the answer, you should have someone get in your car and press on the gas with you behind the car and look for any smoke or put your hand near the muffler and see if anything sprays out of the muffler. Dont do this with a cold engine because the condensation in the exhaust may fool you. Use an optemp engine because the coolant will not burn, and it will be almost a greasy spray from picking up the exhaust particulate.

 

Hope this helps.

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I think there is a coolant additive for that year. I would check with the dealer to be sure.
If you used the SOA additive, they extended the warranty on the HG to 100K miles. He's at 95K.

 

 

If you're head gaskets are starting to go, you'llf first find evidence of combustion by-products in the coolant overflow. Supposedly you can see bubbles after driving hard on the highway.

 

There's not much tuning potential on this car. Like the Gen I, the Gen II "GT" was really a trim level and different wheels. Keep it, drive it.

Who Dares Wins

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Id say definatley do a a timing belt if your over 80K. Not spending 250$ and risking paying upwards of 2K$ on an engine revamp is just plain crazy. New timing belts on Subies are rated for 100k but i think the Pre-2005 were only 80K. Iv seen cars run 150K on OEM belts but car manufacturers want to cover thier butts by calling a replacement at 80K when they can well exceed that.

 

Waterpumps have fins that eventually wear down from friction, thus making the waterpump less effective. Its another maintenance item that dosnt need to be done at 80K but shops do it because they are in the area and have parts off when replacing the timing belt. Oil lasts at least 5K miles nowadays but people still replace it at 3k to keep it at optimal operating levels so why not do it for the rest of your car?

 

As for your coolant level you should fill it to the max mark and let the car run for about 15 min (optimal temp). Check to see if has overflowed on the ground at all due to expansion or if your possibly leaking from a hose. If you dont see anything on the ground you should then check your oil and see if you have any coolant in the oil (it will bead up on your dipstick, and smell unlike plain used oil). If neither of them are the answer, you should have someone get in your car and press on the gas with you behind the car and look for any smoke or put your hand near the muffler and see if anything sprays out of the muffler. Dont do this with a cold engine because the condensation in the exhaust may fool you. Use an optemp engine because the coolant will not burn, and it will be almost a greasy spray from picking up the exhaust particulate.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the tips! I will do this tomorrow.

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