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MR Coilover Clunk Any suggestions


Scooby2.5

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yah, I tried that! too bad my tophat was seized! im gonna swap back to stock, n try to soak them in some sort of solvent, cause my height adjustment perch is also seized! stupid chicago winters! plus, I prob over-torqued them to begin with! whoops!

 

erick

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Tech told me they are just noisy. Turn the stereo up. This is the 3rd Subaru enthusiast / Subaru Tech look at them.

 

Guess they are just noisy and I'll turn the stereo up. Had I known these would be so bothersome I never would have bought them.

 

MR=Fail in my book.

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Tech told me they are just noisy. Turn the stereo up. This is the 3rd Subaru enthusiast / Subaru Tech look at them.

 

Guess they are just noisy and I'll turn the stereo up. Had I known these would be so bothersome I never would have bought them.

 

MR=Fail in my book.

 

Thats rediculous, Sorry but your techs are idiots, if they are making a clunk like mine are there must be something wrong. Mine did not do it until recently and I have had them on since last august.

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Thats rediculous, Sorry but you techs are idiots, if they are making a clunk like mine are there must be something wrong. Mine did not do it until recently and I have had them on since last august.

 

The last guy I took it too was a popular Subie tech in Jacksonville at Sojax. Most nasioc'ers swear by him. WJM on the nasioc boards. Nice guy. Thumbs up for him! :cool: He said little to be done about it. He's heard all sorts of coilovers making these noises. From cheapo's to high dollar.

 

Mine don't clunk so much as make a strage tapping / slapping sound in the rear at low speeds over uneven pavement.

 

Hate it.

 

You may have blown an insert. Have you tried to install new shock bodies?

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an open end wrench doesnt really fit down in the tophat very well but Ill give it a try

You might want to get a set of "pass through" sockets from Sears. That's what I used when I changed out my springs. It's just a regular socket set; except they are hollow in the center where a regular socket snaps onto the stub so you could slide it down a threaded rod or whatever.

Let's kick this pig!
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  • 2 months later...

Can someone who has had this problem and tightened the tophat bolt take a picture of the shock stud and bolt so I can see how far down the threaded shock stud the nut is? Just pull the little rubber cap and snap a pic.

 

I have looked at my stock tophats that I did not take off because my megans came with tophats preinstalled and there is at least 5-7 threads showing above the nut. I have seen this on other cars as well.

 

On mine I only have 2-3 threads then the nut so it looks as though they could be loose.

 

Only problem I have now is that I got the pass through wrenches, put a allen socket on the shock and started to try to tighten them.

 

Bam! the allen socket busted. Maybe an impact would be better

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Tightened with an impact and slowly the nut turned. I could have just kept turning it but I stopped when it was at 6-7 threads down the stud. Now my rubber caps just barely fit.

Problem is I still have the clunk. Doesnt seem as bad but still there.

 

I am about to give up on these things. Maybe the shock cartridge is just bad and i need replacements. Trouble is only had them a year and they are about 400 to replace all four.

 

If anyone has anymore suggestions Im all ears.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I have the same exact problem with mine!!!!!! I had a subaru specialist take a look and he couldn't fix it. It must be something internal. I also had a rear one blow on me this weekend! Oil everywhere! I'm over these if I can't get them fixed. I was going to buy another pair and swap them out but if I'm gonna consistantly have problems than forget it! I just don't have the time for this. The thing that sucks is that I really like the ride when they are working! Also love the look!
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  • 1 month later...

wooohooo mine are fixed!! :spin::spin::spin::spin:

 

I put the front cartridges on today put everything back together and the clunk is gone. Rides like it used to.

 

I will say again though that the cartridges could have been the problem or the tophats were binding.

 

One thing to make sure if you have these is everything may seem tight but if you did not bolt on the tophat before you messed with the preload, by loosening the spring perch, you may have a bind.

 

What happens is this: if you do not tighten down the tophat first and you have already loosened the bottom spring perch, and then you tighten the bottom spring perch to set preload, it could bind at the top and the top hat and top spring perch is not all the way seated down on the shock cartridge.

You have to seat the top perch on the shock cartridge, then put the bushing, then the tophat and bolt it down tight.

Then move the bottom spring perch up, set preload, and then tighten the lock nut.

 

Again I do not know if this was the case with mine or if it was bad cartridges. I am pretty sure it was the cartridges as others have had this problem as well, but it doesnt hurt to check the top perch and tophat by taking the coilover off and making sure there is no problems at the tophat area. Especially if you only have a few threads showing above the tophat nut

 

On mine from vel0mac, the rubber top hat plugs were in but they should not be. You should have 6-7 threads showing above the tophat nut and you should NOT be able to put the rubber plug on the tophat.

 

The replacement front cartridges I did get from Paul had more stroke as well. The new ones were 87mm the old ones 65mm. I just pushed them in on the floor and measured the oil ring it makes back to the black body.

 

Anyway dont give up on them yet as I am back in business. For how long, I dont know but right now they are feeling great.

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Just reposting this quote so you can see that one of the problems was the tophat plug was in with only three threads showing on the shock stud. I know for a fact that this would not have been tight enough to seat the tophat and top spring perch down on the top of the shock shoulder.

 

Can someone who has had this problem and tightened the tophat bolt take a picture of the shock stud and bolt so I can see how far down the threaded shock stud the nut is? Just pull the little rubber cap and snap a pic.

 

I have looked at my stock tophats that I did not take off because my megans came with tophats preinstalled and there is at least 5-7 threads showing above the nut. I have seen this on other cars as well.

 

On mine I only have 2-3 threads then the nut so it looks as though they could be loose.

 

Only problem I have now is that I got the pass through wrenches, put a allen socket on the shock and started to try to tighten them.

 

Bam! the allen socket busted. Maybe an impact would be better

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This quote shows that you can tighten it down with an impact, but I would say that it could have been binding. If you have this problem you have to loosen the bottom spring perch and then tighten the top hat.

 

I think this could be done on the car. First loosen the bottom spring perch locking ring. Then loosen the bottom spring perch so the spring is loose and moves down. Then go back up and tighten the tophat nut. You might even push up on the coilover by using a jack on the bottom of the brake rotor before you tighten the tophat.

 

Again if you do this that nut should go down on the stud 6-8 threads to where you CAN NOT put the rubber plug in the tophat.

 

Everyone, if you have the clunking problem please check this. Even if you have the 6-8 threads showing on the tophat, My suggestion would be to loosen the bottom spring perch and redoing it just to make sure the tophat is not binding and that it nad the top spring perch is again flush with the shock shoulder.

 

 

Tightened with an impact and slowly the nut turned. I could have just kept turning it but I stopped when it was at 6-7 threads down the stud. Now my rubber caps just barely fit.

Problem is I still have the clunk. Doesnt seem as bad but still there.

 

I am about to give up on these things. Maybe the shock cartridge is just bad and i need replacements. Trouble is only had them a year and they are about 400 to replace all four.

 

If anyone has anymore suggestions Im all ears.

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