mightyS Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 DoDo1975, My car starting running poor at idle too. Once moving, it seemed fine. I cleaned my MAF and K&N filter. That didn't help. The shop tested the injectors and found #2 was bad. The coilpacks and plugs were fine. Your car needs a leak down test. It will show if the piston or valves have a problem. My pistons were fine, but an exhaust valve on #2 was burnt and was not closing. I am beginning to think that on the older cars the injectors need to be removed, cleaned, and flow tested. If one becomes clogged, the cylinder will run lean and the valves will be damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gessvt Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 144 and 145 psi in cylinders 2 and 4, so hopefully that rules out bad ringland or gasket. Tech swapped out plugs from cylinder 4 and 2, and I'm driving for the day. Tech said he's seeing evidence of a leak in the #4 injector, and that he has not been able to get any code besides P0304. Car didn't throw a code on my morning drive. It pulled fine, but RPMs drop to around 200 when out of gear for a few seconds, then recover to 1000 RPM. I think we're getting closer to identifying the injector as the culprit. Tech replaced injector #4 and the air fuel ratio sensor. I got the car back last evening and it is idling smooth. During the diagnosis, the tech swapped coils and plugs before he investigated the injector. He stated that the car would not go into a closed loop, and that the misfire code would not set in an open loop. This is why he recommended replacing the air/fuel ratio sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 What is an air fuel ratio sensor? Is this the oxygen sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gessvt Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Yep. A couple more days of driving and no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Also a cause for those with unsolved misfires: BPV http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-misfire-issues-resolved-faulty-blow-off-valve-long-post-177822.html?p=3704414#post3704414 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 ^ Thanks for that link/tip. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Is there somewhere on this site with a good description of how to swap coil packs? Is it as simple as just unplugging, removing and plugging another in? Can I replace 4 with 2 or do i have to replace with 3? Can I test the plug wires somehow, other than swapping them? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Any coil pack can be swapped for any other. We don't have plug wires. Only the neoprene rubber connector that's part of the coil pack and which connects the coil pack to the spark plug, so you check continuity in the coil pack. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 As SBT said but I will add be very careful unplugging the wiring harness from the coil pack. The plastic becomes brittle from the heat and its easy to break off the tab. You need to slightly lift the tab and then pull it off. Shine a flashlight down and look at it first before beginning and you will see what I am talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 ^Thanks - for adding the point about the brittleness of the connectors. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 No problem ask me how I know I know have a tie wrap permanently around the cylinder 3 connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I have now: replaced injector cleaned MAF/IAT Replaced Air Filter Swapped Coil Packs Checked Blue Tee Vacuum Lines Still getting the #4 misfire code. Is there anything else I should check before I have it leakdown tested? Shoudl I investigate more vacuum lines? Would a vacuum line cause a misfire in only one cylinder? If so, any ideas on where to look? Much Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 misfire code on all four cylinders. and pending codes for all cylinders. first it was no boost, then i couldnt get pass 3k then 2.5k now im stuck shifting at 2k, anything above that it sputters stutters and just wont go above 2k rpms while driving around 3k or so when not in gear. i had a ignition coil go bad last winter but that was idling rough and performed fine above 2.5k rpms. so im kinda opposite now. the wastegate was off center and not flush so i thought it was the turbo, so got a new one and nope same thing. clleaned the maf because it was reading low but still nothing. took it to subaru and they said turbo was bad and "recommended" plugs. when i replaced the turbo the cats were brownish white in both the up and down pipe. at 181k does anyone think the cats are clogged up? is there a code for that? thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I'll add this to my other comments: How's your turbo inlet and intake manifold gaskets? Check the TB-intercooler hose too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I have now: replaced injector cleaned MAF/IAT Replaced Air Filter Swapped Coil Packs Checked Blue Tee Vacuum Lines Still getting the #4 misfire code. Is there anything else I should check before I have it leakdown tested? Shoudl I investigate more vacuum lines? Would a vacuum line cause a misfire in only one cylinder? If so, any ideas on where to look? Much Thanks I think you did a good diagnosis. Hope for the best on the leakdown test Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 misfire code on all four cylinders. and pending codes for all cylinders. first it was no boost, then i couldnt get pass 3k then 2.5k now im stuck shifting at 2k, anything above that it sputters stutters and just wont go above 2k rpms while driving around 3k or so when not in gear. i had a ignition coil go bad last winter but that was idling rough and performed fine above 2.5k rpms. so im kinda opposite now. the wastegate was off center and not flush so i thought it was the turbo, so got a new one and nope same thing. clleaned the maf because it was reading low but still nothing. took it to subaru and they said turbo was bad and "recommended" plugs. when i replaced the turbo the cats were brownish white in both the up and down pipe. at 181k does anyone think the cats are clogged up? is there a code for that? thanks!!! If you still have your up pipe stock at 181k you've been on borrowed time. That thing will self destruct at any moment. Does your engine make any weird noises at idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 No. That's the thing, it idles fine no hiccups or anything. I've spent so much money i don't have trying to figure this out. 1300 so far... There is an uppipe dor sale on here dor pretty cheap so I'll think I'll do that and see what happens. So you think my symptoms are indicative of a clogged cat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Did you change your plugs yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20lgt06 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I just got a p0304 cyl #4 today I want to swap, plugs coil pack and inj but what location is cylinder 4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 closest to the driver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20lgt06 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 closest to the driver Thanks-- is it uncommon to have this code and car feel fine... that is my car-- no stutter or stalling.. anything else i can rule out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 this is the most common cylinder to get low compression. poor cooling design in which air pockets can occure above the cylinder, leading to over heating there.... some also speculate that it's last on the chain in the fuel rail which causes slight lean conditions thus eventual low compression. but the rails and lines are equidistant... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/looks-like-ill-needing-rebuild-178488.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzymt Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 +1 - I think you guys are describing piston ring land failures - #4 of which is the most common. Sorry to hear it - good luck with repairs. Priority #1 at this point is doing a compression check & leakdown test, but I'm guessing you will not get good news. PS - I also broke the damn tab on the Cyl#3 coil pack plug. They are very easy to break. [CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 not yet. i have an appointment on monday. the car won't go above 1.5k rpms now, thankfully i was able to take my gf's car today 01 is300. would it not make sense that if the cat is getting more and more clogged that it would gradually decrease in power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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