king_j Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Update to my issue. Bad valve, machined heads, new exhaust valve guides and 1 new exhaust valve. Car runs good with a smooth idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Bad as what exactly? Lash too tight? Other physical damage? I wonder if some cars come with pretty tight valve lash. Typically as the seats wear the clearances get tighter and tighter, to a point when valve does not close fully, especially when engine is hot and the valve expands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad rex Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Update on my issue, still can't track down the problem. So far here's what i've had happen: Oil leak near turbo/Cylinder misfire #4. Bad turbo/ compression test nil. Found bad/burned valve, replaced bad valve cylinder #4, replaced turbo 6 months later now getting cylinder #3 misfire. Copmression good, plugs good, coil packs good. Replaced #3 injector with used injector. Still getting cylinder #3 misfire The misfire ONLY happens after gas tank is filled. I was thinking the fuel filter may be the culprit, but wouldn't that make the whole fuel system dirty? Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Update on my issue, still can't track down the problem. So far here's what i've had happen: Oil leak near turbo/Cylinder misfire #4. Bad turbo/ compression test nil. Found bad/burned valve, replaced bad valve cylinder #4, replaced turbo 6 months later now getting cylinder #3 misfire. Copmression good, plugs good, coil packs good. Replaced #3 injector with used injector. Still getting cylinder #3 misfire The misfire ONLY happens after gas tank is filled. I was thinking the fuel filter may be the culprit, but wouldn't that make the whole fuel system dirty? Any thoughts? what were the compression test numbers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PeteAWD Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 HELLO ALL. I am having misfires intermittently on all four cylinders at full throttle just before it shifts. The CEL BLINKS indicating a serious issue, then it goes out. There is momentary loss of power and the engine makes a clicking or knocking noise. Eventually, the proverbial steady CEL and blinking cruise indicator comes on and I plug in my diag tool to see the codes. Plugs (fairly new 25k or so), coil packs and injectors check okay. I run 91-93 fuel only (it will misfire with lower octane). I would take it to the stealership, there is an excellent tech there that knows Subaru in an out, however, the car has 184k on it and they'll charge me a good fortune in diagnostics and to repair it. I have a good relationship with a private shop and the techs. They don't charge me to look at it and they give me one of their cars to drive for free. In any event, he has had it for a few days and he tells me that he believes so far it is possibly a regulator or a pump. He said the exhaust gas sensor is getting extremely hot and he thinks its rich. He has several diagnostic tools linked up to it and he is driving it to get more information. Anyone had this that can point me in the right direction? I don't want to start throwing parts at it. Thanks, take care, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 Has it been leakdown tested or compression tested? Is the timing correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gessvt Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 33 degrees this morning, and it's idling worse then when it threw the P0304 code. I'm really surprised that I can't get a misfire CEL at this point. Finally got a CEL. P0304 again. Local shop replaced coil on #4. Car ran fine briefly, but now will not idle. The shop wants to replace the O2 sensor, but I'm thinking that they didn't hook up a vacuum line somewhere? They are not charging me for the coil, but I'm nervous that this is going to snowball. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 cylinder 4 only misfire- get a compression check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gessvt Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 cylinder 4 only misfire- get a compression check. 144 and 145 psi in cylinders 2 and 4, so hopefully that rules out bad ringland or gasket. Tech swapped out plugs from cylinder 4 and 2, and I'm driving for the day. Tech said he's seeing evidence of a leak in the #4 injector, and that he has not been able to get any code besides P0304. Car didn't throw a code on my morning drive. It pulled fine, but RPMs drop to around 200 when out of gear for a few seconds, then recover to 1000 RPM. I think we're getting closer to identifying the injector as the culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 sticky injector Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 After replacing my injector on cylinder 4, car ran really smooth for a few days, then started to get worse and after a few days was running rough again. Code also came back (Misfire on 4). My car runs rough at idle and lower RPMs, not to the point of stalling ,just rough. I also get 30% worse fuel economy than I should. I want to determine what to check next. I have read MAF sensor and also the coil pack. Does the fact the car ran fine for several days while the computer adjusted eliminate the coil packs, or point to something else? I don't want the stealership blindly replacing things and charging each time. Its a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT with 136,000 km. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 ^^ is it worse when its cold out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 It seems to be, but it is hard to tell when its always cold out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgodett Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Hi i have a 2005 legacy gt with 95k miles and the CEL has came on twice, i pulled the codes and it came up with misfire in all 4 cylinders, i checked the freeze frame on it and it was at 42 mph, 18% throttle and 3300 rpm. The idle is normal, engine performance seems normal, no hesitation. i have only owned the car for about 2 months so don't know much history. Car is stock with a k&n slip in. I plan on doing the timing belt and spark plugs very soon but wouldn't think either would cause a misfire in all 4 at once like that, any help would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Clean your maf. Reset ecu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gessvt Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 After replacing my injector on cylinder 4, car ran really smooth for a few days, then started to get worse and after a few days was running rough again. Code also came back (Misfire on 4). My car runs rough at idle and lower RPMs, not to the point of stalling ,just rough. I also get 30% worse fuel economy than I should. I want to determine what to check next. I have read MAF sensor and also the coil pack. Does the fact the car ran fine for several days while the computer adjusted eliminate the coil packs, or point to something else? I don't want the stealership blindly replacing things and charging each time. Its a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT with 136,000 km. Did you get a compression check? Let me know how this turns out. I'm about to have the #4 injector replaced for the P0304 as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I searched the forums for clean MAF, but nothing obvious popped up. Is there an easy procedure ordescription of how to find, remove and clean the MAF on the site somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudeondacouch Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I searched the forums for clean MAF, but nothing obvious popped up. Is there an easy procedure ordescription of how to find, remove and clean the MAF on the site somewhere? some threads on the subject: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/maf-cleaning-31972.html?t=31972 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clean-mafiii-156085.html?t=156085 *Hint - Use Google... put search terms in the box followed by a space and "site:legacygt.com" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 http://lmgtfy.com/?q=cleaning+legacy+gt+maf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Cute! Too bad that doesn't come up when I search the forums, but does in google Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightyS Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Had the check engine light come on and the P0302 code for the misfire. The injector was found to be struggling and was replaced. The check engine light code came back in 20 miles and the compression test was done. The valves in cylinder 2 are burnt. Compression was down to 90 psi in #2. The mechanic thinks the injector wasn't supplying enough fuel and the cylinder #2 ran lean. Do injectors fail just because they become clogged, or can they fail in other ways? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 clogged, bent, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthasn Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Ok, I was having major misfiring issues and ruled it to be the easiest fix as the plugs, wires and coil. Got those changed and for about the first 10 minutes or so the car would actually stall if i started to brake for a stop sign or a turn. Popped the hood and made sure everything was hooked up and not loose, no issues. It seems to have gone away for now, is this something to be concerned about, or is it nothing unless issues comes back? When it stalled it did not trip any CEL codes however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Ok, I was having major misfiring issues and ruled it to be the easiest fix as the plugs, wires and coil. Got those changed and for about the first 10 minutes or so the car would actually stall if i started to brake for a stop sign or a turn. Popped the hood and made sure everything was hooked up and not loose, no issues. It seems to have gone away for now, is this something to be concerned about, or is it nothing unless issues comes back? When it stalled it did not trip any CEL codes however. sounds like a vac hose popped off, check the lines under the IC going into the manifold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I have posted a little in this thread in the past, but I am going to start describing my problem from the beginning in hopes everything together elicits a eureka moment. About 4 months ago, my car seemed to be running rougher, especially at idle and low rpm under load (going up hill). In addition, the fuel economy also was poor, about 15-20% worse than normal. No codes or anything, just seemed a little rough. About 2 months ago, I had an oil change and during this change, they inspected many other parts of the car, including the air filter. The air filter was fairly dirty on the exposed side, so it was blown off with some air and put back in. A day later, the car finally threw a code, 0304 cyclinder 4 misfire. The car over time began to run a little worse, but again only at low rpm and idle. Not close to stalling or anything. A couple weeks ago, I replaced the fuel injector on number 4 and reset the code. After replacement, the car ran very poorly, almost stalling at idle for the first 10-20 minutes of driving, but gradually got better, until it purring like a kitten. Unfortunately, this only lasted a few days as it quickly moved into the poor running territory again and began to throw the 0304 code again. Last weekend, I removed the MAF sensor and cleaned it, as well as changed the air filter. The same thing happened, when I reconnected the battery and started the car, it ran poorly, gradually getting better, running perfectly and then going downhill to poor again. This took about 1 day or 40 km of driving (5-6 engine start cycles). I find it odd that after the ECU is reset the engine eventually "learns" to run really well, but then continues changing the inputs until it is running poorly, but this behaviour must be telling me something, I just don't know what it is. I don't know where to go next, or what to make of the changing engine performance. If there was really something wrong with valves or cylinders I wouldn't think it would be able to run really well under any circumstances. Also, if there was a coil pack problem, wouldn't that also ensure that the car could not run well? I am hoping someone can help tell me where I should look next. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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