Can't wait: RF 3Sixty.2 arrives tomorrow

[str8dwn]

I am excited to no longer have to tell the world to avoid the Cleansweep after all the headaches and weeks spent troubleshooting it.

 

Tomorrow, the freight forwarder of choice will deliver the .2 to me. I'd like to thank my wife for knowing what to really get me for my b-day.

 

I'll follow this with a review and install photos later this week.

[str8dwn]

My Review:

Because many out there wonder the differences between the RF 3sixty.2 and the JL Cleansweep, I will do my best to explain where each differs having now owned both.

 

Installation:

For the RF, I used all four outputs from the OEM radio via a handy JL 9-wire OEM interface cable (4 speakers plus a remote turn-on). Instead of cutting the factory harness, I used two of SVXDC's harnesses (male and female) allowing me to tap into all the necessary wires. I ran a constant +12v from this harness for the RF. (note that there is an error in the manual saying this should be switched +12v, but it should not). The ground came courtesy of the JL Masterlug already in place for my amps. I also ran (but did not connect per the manual) the remote knob cable.

 

Both the RF and CS are fairly similar to this point.

 

Connections:

The RF offers 6 inputs (Front L+R, Rear L+R, Sub and Center) that can sum them if needed, to produce a full range signal. The CS requires an additional device to do the same. The RF provides 6 channels of both RCA and high-level (speaker) inputs. Both the RF and CS offer an Aux input for Sat radio or iPod.

 

After putting the supplied CD in the radio, I adjusted the levels on the RF as indicated. They required very little adjustment in my case. It also tells you via LED whether or not signal is present on those channels. T

 

After making the connections, I installed the RF software for my laptop. After making sure I had the Microsoft .Net Framework installed, I made a connection to the RF via Bluetooth. This process was extremely simple and connected the first time.

 

Software and Setup:

This truly is where the separation between the RF and CS begins. Once I was connected to the unit, I opened the RF Software and it guided me through the OEM setup. Like the JL unit, it uses a special CD track (not really sure what's on it) to understand the factory eq curve and then works to flatten it. Yet, unlike the CS, you can actually see the before and after on a response graph. The CS has no visible interface, so you hope it does a good job.

 

Adjustments:

The RF Software then allows you to tweak the rest as much or as little as you please.

• You can adjust 31 freq bands on each of the 6 channels via a digital eq (wow).
  
• It allows you to mute any channel so you can better isolate your tuning to a channel or adjust each channel's gain on the fly.
  
• The RF Software allows you to adjust the time alignment of each stage. Basically, you can slow the left speaker down (since it's physically closer) to help improve your staging. I have not yet played with this.
  
• The software allows you to save different configurations and take it back to flat with a click.
  
• It provides a full digital active crossover setup for all channels that changes with a click in 5hz increments.
  
• For iPod or Sat Aux-in users, it has a full 31 bands of adjustment plus level adjustment. This allows you to better adjust your iPod's sound to match your system. I found this extremely helpful.
  
• The unit has 5v output, which meant I barely needed to touch the gains on my amps keeping the noise floor low.
  
• The CS unit is simply non-adjustable and really minimizes it's usefulness IMO.

In all, I spent about 1-2 hours playing with the settings just because I like the flexibility and wanted to hear the effect. Best part is that you don't have to do any of this. The initial setup sounded significantly better than the JL. The sound is clean, smooth, and the bass response has far more impact and depth.

 

Two gripes:

1) The manual had an error and I only discovered this by searching for the on/off pop in their online knowledgebase.

 

2) The remote master volume knob does not have enough adjustability to completely silence the system. I found this very odd. They say a fix is coming.

 

Overall Satisfaction:

I truly feel that given the Cleansweep's $400 MSRP and RF's $599 MRSP, there are clearly enough features and adjustability to justify the added expense. And, when you look at the real street prices of both, this gap gets really narrow.

[HighlineCA]

On-T - It is a great piece! The adjustability is fantastic. Does take a bit of time though compared to the .1, which is more simple version of the 3Sixty. Imo, it is one of the best vs everything else out there right now.

 

Off-T - We are an authorized RF dealer. I can run a GB of 3 if anyone is interested.

 

Thanks,

 

Rich @ HCA

[CapnJack]

Some questions for you as I too am considering the RF.

 

1) Do you have to use the supplied remote volume knob or can the stock one be used with minimal problems?

 

2) Does the self-setup deliver satisfactory results or would I be looking at hauling my PC into my garage to set it up? (I don't have a laptop)

 

3) Can you please post a parts list of the connectors you used to hook up the factory radio to the RF? (Pics of the wiring would be awesome if you have them!)

 

4) When setting up your amps, did you use the crossovers on the amp or in the RF or both?

[str8dwn]

CapnJack,

1) You do not have to use the remote unless you plan to use the aux-in on the RF (which I do recommend since it provides a separate EQ for it). If no aux-in, then certainly use the factory volume with minimal issues.

 

2) You will need some sort of device to connect to the RF unit via Bluetooth while you go through setup. It is in this software that the setup takes place. Whether it's a phone running Windows Mobile (Samsung BlackJack), a Palm, or in my case a laptop (or PC) with Bluetooth, you will need something to run the software. Keep in mind if your PC or laptop doesn't have Bluetooth, you can buy USB adapters that provide that functionality for very little $$.

 

I thought the self-setup did provide an excellent configuration at first try. You can see by the chart that it is nearly flat with a peak at 20k and some valleys in between. With some minor tweaking, this can be improved. My favorite is the fact that you can change any setting and instantly hear the difference. It's like a virtual EQL.

 

3) I don't have pictures of the wiring, but can explain what I used. Keep in mind, this would be the same for the JL, an LOC or any other OEM integration piece.

I used the "WRX" forward and reverse harnesses from SVXDC (http://www.geocities.com/svxdc/Ordering.htm). One end plugs into the factory radio, the other accepts the factory plug from the car. Now, you're left with two tails of wires from each plug that you'll need to connect together. This is where you add in your speaker connections and any power for the unit. (see diagram) I used the JL (XB-BLU9CON-20) 20 ft. / 6.1 m BLUE 18 AWG, Twisted Nine-Conductor Multi-Use Cable. It's about 3/4" in diameter, but makes running wires from the OEM radio to the RF unit very tidy.

 

4) I completely turned off all crossovers in my amps. The software allows you to tune everything actively and in real time. No more guessing what the frequency actually is. It also allows you to adjust it to a 12 or 24db slope based on your needs.

 

Hope this helps. I know the diagram is cheesy, but only way I could think to illustrate. Oh and pardon the spaghetti! Still tidying up my RCAs.