akfreerider Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 The clutch in my wifes 2005 OBXT is toast.. I need suggestions and testimonies on replacement clutches. I'm not looking for a racing setup but I would like a longer lasting and better engaging clutch.. Thanks for all suggestions.. Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy05 Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 How many miles did she put on the stock clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akfreerider Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 It's got 34k on it.. I've never had a clutch feel like this one has since it was new.. I've never thought very highly of it.. My buddy was driving me around about a month ago and he smoked the clutch at a red light on a hill. I think that pretty much sealed the deal with the clutch. Now as you release it you feel the clutch begin to engage but it doesn't fully engage smoothly.. If you try to meke the engagement smooth the car shutters.. I want to replace it before catastophic failure.. I also want to replace the throw-out bearing and whatever other common wear items there are.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy05 Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Yeah 34k is low miles for sure, my TB started going at 69k miles so I replaced everything ... but I did it with stock I already have 15k on the stock setup .... and I am stage 2 ... I guess it just depends on the driver I guess. I know people on here are happy with their ACT setup, do a search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 It's a defective pressure plate. Just had mine replaced. When it starts engaging close to the bottom of the stroke, rather than near the top, and it becomes increasingly harder to push down, it's failed. I'll bet that the disk is still in reasonably good shape, worn, but not toasted. Also, if the clutch pedal goes to the floor and doesn't come all the way up and just slips, that's an issue that was very common on the 05s and some 06s. Dealer should replace the PP, FW and TOB under warranty, you may have to pay for the disk. SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Clutch it's covered under basic 36k/3y miles warranty. Get another stocker, it ain't bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Clutch it's covered under basic 36k/3y miles warranty. Get another stocker, it ain't bad. - strange that mine was covered under PT warranty. SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akfreerider Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 I'm outside of the three years by 4 months.. Within the 36k though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 - strange that mine was covered under PT warranty. SBT Well, clutch is definately covered under only basic warranty, although. Maybe you have nice dealer that asked SOA to give you "goodwill" repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 I've driven my fair share of Subaru's and they have some of the easiest-to-slip clutches I've ever experienced...I have no idea why (except perhaps AWD)... Anywho....it's a good day when you hear about a Subie owner taking their clutch to over 100k. I don't plan on my (future) LGT getting more than 75k on the stock clutch Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I've driven my fair share of Subaru's and they have some of the easiest-to-slip clutches I've ever experienced...I have no idea why (except perhaps AWD)... Anywho....it's a good day when you hear about a Subie owner taking their clutch to over 100k. I don't plan on my (future) LGT getting more than 75k on the stock clutch Joe I've only replaced a clutch in my 2005 LGT and my 1998 LGT due to clutch failure, and both were replaced under warranty because of the nature of the failure (PP). The only other clutch I've had to repair was the 96 OBS and that's because the foolish plastic rear engine separator plate cracked and allowed oil to leak down onto the flywheel and then the clutch disk. Other than that, literally thousands of miles, over the years, of worry free driving all on original clutches, a couple over 200,000 miles. SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Hey Subie, Were the cars that lasted Subaru's (you didn't clarify)? My father owned a couple of toyota corolla's (80s) with original clutches to 200k+...amazing what is possible there. I owned a 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero and have driven a variety of other recent Subarus. My point was simply that in recent years it seems soooo easy to slip a Subaru clutch without meaning too....I'm not really sure why. It just needs a little more slippage for smooth takeoff? Don't know, but I suspect it's part of the reason for earlier clutch failure. We'll see when we own an LGT Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Hey Subie, Were the cars that lasted Subaru's (you didn't clarify)? My father owned a couple of toyota corolla's (80s) with original clutches to 200k+...amazing what is possible there. I owned a 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero and have driven a variety of other recent Subarus. My point was simply that in recent years it seems soooo easy to slip a Subaru clutch without meaning too....I'm not really sure why. It just needs a little more slippage for smooth takeoff? Don't know, but I suspect it's part of the reason for earlier clutch failure. We'll see when we own an LGT Joe Joe, I've owned Subaru's since 1973, and I've never had to replace a clutch, other than the three exceptions I mentioned above, two from manufacturing failures, one from an engine oil leak which soaked the disk. For that matter, I've only replaced one other clutch in 40+ years of driving MTs and that was on a 1966 Datsun Sunny (B210) in Japan, w/~270,000 KM on the odo. SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akfreerider Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 wow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Damn Subietronic, that's an impressive record. I'm a little bit of a car nut in the sense that I can never decide on just one car for multiple years ....so I haven't had the pleasure of high-miling a clutch. My current car, a 2006 Civic SI, has the most miles I've ever put on a single car: 40k. It's engine only makes 139 lb/ft of torque, but it has a really bad drive-by-wire throttle programming that results in alot of drivetrain lash, jerky shifting, and possibly more slippage than is good for it...as long as it lasts for as long as I keep it, I'll be happy I don't know how you drive or your clutch habits (I assume you go easy on your cars and easy on your clutches), but I tend to go easy on my clutches and hard on my cars Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I don't know how you drive or your clutch habits (I assume you go easy on your cars and easy on your clutches), but I tend to go easy on my clutches and hard on my cars Joe Low RPM initial engagement, reasonable up-through-the-gears (rev-matched), always rev-match downshifts and never sit in traffic or at a stop light with my clutch pedal pushed in. Do I baby it, no - I drive it. And, if I'm sitting on a steep uphill, I e-Brake so I'm not rolling backwards putting strain on the drivetrain and the clutch. Much easier on everything to start from a complete stop, rather than unwinding from rolling backwards to rolling forwards. But, the thing I most rely on, are my aural and tactile perceptions (sound and touch) - where in the rev-range is the engine v-a-v the gearing and what is the shifter telling me. Other than keeping the cars firmly on their maintenance schedules, I have no other explanation. SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I don't think you need one I'm trying to teach my wife to always rev-match on a downshift....she's learning, but it doesn't help that her current car has NO throttle responsiveness and such tall gearing that it barely needs downshifting. Being able to consistently and smooth launch from a stop with minimal rpms is an artform not too many people appreciate. A good friend, who actually taught me how to drive a manual transmission, owned a 2005 Mustang 5-speed (new body style). After only 3000 miles, I heard a bad sounding rear gear/bearing whine forming. Why? He always revved to 3000-3500 rpms and slowly let out the clutch....it was one of the worst displays of slow, mechanical destruction I've ever seen. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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