Ryandigi Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 The HP of the car has no bearing on whether you should get new brakes. Whether the car has 250 HP or 500 HP it still weighs the same so stopping power is the same from any speed. You only need new brakes if you are interested in Stopping in a shorter distance. Off a track, in the real world this sure is a safety concern, but I don't drive like an idiot and tend to keep plenty of space around myself...but I can see the advantage of being able to stop in a shorter distance in an emergency. On a track, of course you would want to upgrade the brakes so you can carry more speed into a turn and brake later. These two applications however, are independent of the amount of power your car makes from a stage perspective. Especially since my car is limited to top speed by running out of gearing and in increase in hp would just get me their faster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strabismo Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 If you don't overheat the brakes, the only thing that will make your stopping distance shorter is better tires because braking power is limited by traction. When your brakes are in good working temperature, the deceleration is limited by how much longitudinal force your tires will be able to sustain on the road before they lose traction and make the wheels lock up. But if let's say you're on the track and your brakes overheat, then they won't be able to brake enough to make your tires reach their traction limit. So then now the weak link becomes your brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZZMAN Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 I have an 2006 Spec B with Stage II mod and Cobb exhaust. I bought it new and upgraded to stage II at 9k mi. and I am almost at 20k. I push the car pretty hard on a daily basis (Clocked at 123mph NB Tri-state, got a ticket for 94 in a 55 zone). I use Mobil 1 every 4k miles. I have not had any problems like some owners have posted on this board... squeaks... rattles... lights going out. Based on my calculation the car 0-60 is in the 5's... depends on how the launch goes. I am ready to swap out my snow tires for the stock wheels again. I get many compliments on the car and the stock wheels at the gas station and even at the McDonald's Drive thru window. Aren't the bulbs covered warranty? I had a 2004 Forester and had three bulbs replaced (2 fog 1 headlight) at no charge. I traded that car in in 2006 with 50k miles. The Forester needed brakes tires clutch rear joints and even the rear wiper was gone thanks to my daughter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 I don't understand why anyone what take a daily driver and have it so it fails emissions? What do you guys do every year when you have to take it in? Swap out the exhaust and then put it back on after? That just seems stupid to me... Because we are speed crazy!!!!!!!:spin::spin:Plus in Cali I don't have to get my first smog till 2010 or 2011!! It takes a few hours to put the car back to stock. The better question should be "Why do people sell all of their stock parts when the go stage 2 and up? When they know one day they will need a smog test???????" Their are many threads on smog test and I have only seen one person that had a problem. You can go with a shorty DP and keep your third catt. You should still pass the sniff test but you may not pass the visual inspection. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryandigi Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 I have an 2006 Spec B with Stage II mod and Cobb exhaust. I bought it new and upgraded to stage II at 9k mi. and I am almost at 20k. I push the car pretty hard on a daily basis (Clocked at 123mph NB Tri-state, got a ticket for 94 in a 55 zone). I use Mobil 1 every 4k miles. I have not had any problems like some owners have posted on this board... squeaks... rattles... lights going out. Based on my calculation the car 0-60 is in the 5's... depends on how the launch goes. I am ready to swap out my snow tires for the stock wheels again. I get many compliments on the car and the stock wheels at the gas station and even at the McDonald's Drive thru window. Aren't the bulbs covered warranty? I had a 2004 Forester and had three bulbs replaced (2 fog 1 headlight) at no charge. I traded that car in in 2006 with 50k miles. The Forester needed brakes tires clutch rear joints and even the rear wiper was gone thanks to my daughter. you ever datalogged some 3rd gear runs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacejunkiehsv Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 My blown headlight bulbs were covered under warranty my (now expired) 3/36 warranty. Because of the hassle of getting the dealership to change a f'ing bulb, I did the last two myself. They used a crappy yellow-ish looking bulb anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawl Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 a catted downpipe on stage2 will pass smog in CA, i think someone has smogged their car. AWD is easier because places dont have smog dynos for awd so all you have to do is pass the visual and the sniffer. if u can pass the sniffer i'm sure an easy 20 bucks would take care of the visual. or take it to a guy u know who will "more than likely" pass you car for sale. PM me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZZMAN Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 you ever datalogged some 3rd gear runs? I have not, I would like to get the car on the Dyno tester and see HP Torque numbers. Does anyone have a dyno graph of a stage II Legacy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacejunkiehsv Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 I have not, I would like to get the car on the Dyno tester and see HP Torque numbers. Does anyone have a dyno graph of a stage II Legacy? Cobb does... http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/?id=2436 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 If you don't overheat the brakes, the only thing that will make your stopping distance shorter is better tires because braking power is limited by traction. When your brakes are in good working temperature, the deceleration is limited by how much longitudinal force your tires will be able to sustain on the road before they lose traction and make the wheels lock up. But if let's say you're on the track and your brakes overheat, then they won't be able to brake enough to make your tires reach their traction limit. So then now the weak link becomes your brakes. Bingo! Stock pads can already lock up the tires (and even extreme summer tires). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macdarwin Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Bingo! Stock pads can already lock up the tires (and even extreme summer tires). Where were you 2 yrs ago? LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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