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Twin Plate clutch???


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supposedly it's a GC8 impreza 2.5RS clutch type..

 

Impossible. N/A trannies utilize a different system. One is Pull mechanism and the other is Push, I forget which is which. Andrewtech should have the solution to our dilemma. Twin plate will not be fun for a daily driver.

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Impossible. N/A trannies utilize a different system. One is Pull mechanism and the other is Push, I forget which is which. Andrewtech should have the solution to our dilemma. Twin plate will not be fun for a daily driver.

 

actually, for our GT, we are the odd balls that we are using a push type from the last time I remember talking about it.. the WRX uses a pull type... the GC8 also uses a push type.

 

While twin plate may not be a fun for a daily driver, as long as you dont swap out for a lighter fly wheel you'll be ok. Otherwise, that's a lot of annoying reving just to park the car.

Keefe
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You are about as wrong as anyone could possibly be :lol:

 

Actually no. AFAIK all transmissions that came on turbo Subarus are all pull type. A GC8 also has a pull type. A GM6 on the other hand would have a push type. Can anyone else verify that a 5 spd. LGT has a push type? Your GT might have a push type but my Spec.B has a pull type guaranteed.

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Actually no. AFAIK all transmissions that came on turbo Subarus are all pull type. A GC8 also has a pull type. A GM6 on the other hand would have a push type. Can anyone else verify that a 5 spd. LGT has a push type? Your GT might have a push type but my Spec.B has a pull type guaranteed.

 

well, there's your difference of a 5spd vs 6spd as well.

Keefe
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Actually no. AFAIK all transmissions that came on turbo Subarus are all pull type. A GC8 also has a pull type. A GM6 on the other hand would have a push type. Can anyone else verify that a 5 spd. LGT has a push type? Your GT might have a push type but my Spec.B has a pull type guaranteed.

 

You might want to verify your facts before posting. The LGT 5 speed indeed uses a push type clutch. So does the 06+ WRX. The earlier WRX and all 6 spd trannies use a pull type clutch.

 

For the OP, what kind of power are you looking to make to need a twin plate clutch? If it's under 600 whp you'll be fine with a 6 puck single plate like the ACT.

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ok here is what i wanna do(for now)

cobb ap

headers

up pipe

downpipe

cat back

3" intake

water injection

blow off valve

 

 

what clutch should i get, something that will last longggggg with good everyday drivability and for your occational trip to the track... pretty much beat the crap sh!t outta and last long?????

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You DO NOT need a twin plate clutch. Not even close. Get the ACT full facing clutch and lightweight flywheel. Stock like drivability and it will easily hold your power level reliably.

 

For the turbo, if you want a VF39 or any other WRX/STi fitment turbo you will need an FMIC or a swap over to an STi intake manifold and TMIC. You will almost certainly need bigger injectors and a fuel pump as well if you go bigger than a VF39.

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Thank you Paul, for clearing that up for me. I am new to LGTs and more experienced with GC/GF Imprezas.

 

No worries mang :) Hope I didn't come off too harsh. I really don't know squat about the older Imprezas but I am pretty dang familiar with the LGT.

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Have you guys actually driven cars with a twin plate clutch?!? They rattle like a mofo at a stop. Good pedal effort, but honestly I'd rather have a good sprung hub 6 puck unless the power levels really called for a twin plate.

 

that can vary on the sound from one twin plate to another.. not all of them rattle.. it depends on a few other factors as well.

 

The pedal effort will be more so based on the pressure plate and spring hub.

 

Having a twin plate for a car that's less than 400 whp is really not necessary unless the person who is driving the car is so hard on the tranny that they enjoy slamming gears and keeping their foot nailed to the throttle.

Keefe
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what clutch should i get, something that will last longggggg with good everyday drivability and for your occational trip to the track... pretty much beat the crap sh!t outta and last long?????

 

 

It's how you really drive it. If you want to drop clutches like that, the rest of your drivetrain isn't going to like you. You may end up needing new driveshafts in the process, especially if you get stickier tires.

 

I take it that when you say 'track' you mean the dragstrip, not a road course. Im on a stock powered GT and I have well over 62,000+ miles on the original clutch and I take it to autox and road tracks that probably total well over 4,000 miles by now on just track days.. I'm by no means "easy" on my car, but I to make it simple on the tranny and clutch.

 

How you drive is where the clutch will last. If you just need a clutch that can do launches at the track, a "stage 3ish" 6-puck ACT clutch is all you need with a really HEAVY DUTY pressure plate. Don't complain how stiff the clutch pedal is, eventually you'll wear it down. My guess is that I could probably make a clutch like that on my car last well over 80,000 miles easy simply that I dont bother dropping clutches because the rest of the tranny and drivetrain won't like you and other things start to break.

Keefe
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You DO NOT need a twin plate clutch. Not even close. Get the ACT full facing clutch and lightweight flywheel. Stock like drivability and it will easily hold your power level reliably.

 

Do you know if a lightweight flywheel (12 lbs or lighter) will throw CELs? I know on a few other Subarus in the past that it would because it's so light that it winds down so fast that it throws misfiring codes.

 

Also, having too light of a flywheel with a grabby clutch on the street will make it harder to creep a car in stop-and-go traffic and not to mention that you'll end up sitting there revving the motor a lot more just to move the car 2" on a mild incline.

 

I laugh at people that already rev like 3,000 rpms just to park a car on a flat surface (absolutely have no idea and concept of clutch work and car-control)... I can't imagine these people in a car that makes 300+whp using a lightweight flywheel and a super grabby clutch.. I bet they'll rev the motor to 5,000 rpms constantly blipping the throttle like 20 times (which is how people wear out their clutches in the first place) to JUST to park the car, making them sound like a damn ricer that can't park a car..

 

ok, I'm done ranting on terrible drivers :lol:

Keefe
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I have the 13.5lb ACT Streetlight in my car and no problems with misfire codes. I also agree that how long a clutch lasts depends almost entirely on how well the car is driven. When I swapped in the built motor I changed my clutch to the ACT 6 puck and lightweight flywheel. However, my stock clutch was in perfect shape. At least 50-60% left on it and the pressure plate and flywheel showed absolutely no heat marks or distortions. It had 36K miles on it, about 30K of those miles at Stage 2 and a few thousand miles at 408whp. Never slipped or misbehaved on me.

 

BTW, there is no need for a He-Man pressure plate. I have ACT's heavy duty pressure plate and the pedal effort is only marginally higher than stock. Combined with their sprung 6 puck disk (perfectly drivable) I have full confidence that it will hold 500whp/500wtq. I have yet to see or hear a twin plate that didn't make noise when disengaged. Obviously if they power goals are high enough to warrant it, then you live with that, but otherwise considering the downside and the cost there is no reason to get one.

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cool thanks guys, boostjunkies what do you think about spec clutch's? who is better in your opinion, act or spec? second quest are there performance drive shafts? and does anyone know what else you would need to drop in a deadbolt 20g other then the mods i said on the first page?
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