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Centerline RPM in Black Pearl 17x7 5x100 42 and 50mm offset


Autophysics

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These Centerline wheels are a smoking deal but will they fit? [url]http://www.centerlinewheels.com/wheel_deals_detail.php?id=189&type=bolt&data=5-100mm[/url] Shown on WRX [url]http://www.centerlinewheels.com/photo_detail_compact.php?id=276[/url] [url]http://www.centerlinewheels.com/photo_detail_compact.php?id=29[/url] Large photo (download) [url]http://www.centerlinewheels.com/images/wheels/418_RPM%20BLACK%20PEARL_hi.zip[/url]
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[quote name='OptimusPrime']I agree, they look great but where are you seeing 50mm offset? All the ones I see on the site are 42mm. Or am I missing something?[/QUOTE] They have those wheels in a 17" in black pearl in the clearance section: [url]http://www.centerlinewheels.com/wheel_deals_detail.php?id=189&type=bolt&data=5-100mm[/url] If they were 18's, I would snap them up in a second. They do have 18's in a polished wheel for $229 each. If anyone wants them....they better hurry. I don't think this is the 'normal' price. :D
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they talk about a 42mm offset AND a 50mm offset but when you look them up they only show a listing for a 42??? 50 would be near perfect ---42 too far off to work right--I dont want to get a "deal" but something that fouls up the suspension
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[quote name='franklin']they talk about a 42mm offset AND a 50mm offset but when you look them up they only show a listing for a 42??? 50 would be near perfect ---42 too far off to work right--I dont want to get a "deal" but something that fouls up the suspension[/QUOTE] click on the link I provided or do like I did and start from the beginning, looking in the clearance section. That has 17" 5x100 with 50mm offset. Perfect for Scoobys.
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Very nice choice of wheel, especially the anthracite finish shown on the Red Rex. Are these wheels hub centered? In terms of offset (50mm option) and bolt pattern it'll fit. Plus seeing them on a WRX is a good indicator that they would fit the LGT anyhow.

2005 Legacy GT Wagon Ltd 5EAT Garnet Red :cool:

1999 GTI VR6 Black - sold but not forgotten... :(

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[quote name='Autophysics']If the stock offset is 55mm and this one is 42mm, for the same width wheel (7" like stock) the rim would be 13mm (or about half an inch) closer to the wheel lip than stock. Do we have enough room for that as long as we don't need tire chain clearance?[/QUOTE] The wheels are available in a 50mm offset. See post above with the link to the proper set of wheels.
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One other thing to keep in mind for these wheels (or any other).... The 215/45/17 stock tire has a Load Rating of 1201 #s per corner. The regular Centerline RPM Series have a 1200 # Load Rating, and the Sport Compact RPMs have an 1,100 # Load Rating. Technically, neither of these wheels are correct for the LGT. It is interesting that the 215/45/17 tire has a 1,201 capacity, when there are wheels out there rated at 1,200. Realistically, the regular RPM series at 1,200 #s should be OK, but they also have the undesirable 42mm offset. The 1,100 # Sport Compact "might" cause a problem. FWIW, the Taurus SHO guys were looking at these wheels, but the load rating on the stock 215/60/16 SHO tires was 1,477#, although the cars themselves are in the 3,300-3,400 # range. One guy got a set of RPMs anyway, and did get cracks in the front wheels after a few months. It's just something to keep in mind. Also, to use an extreme example, if you had an accident involving a cracked wheel, and someone was seriously injured/killed, the fact that the wheel was less than the mfrs capacity rating could be used against you.
Ron
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[quote name='rporter']One other thing to keep in mind for these wheels (or any other).... The 215/45/17 stock tire has a Load Rating of 1201 #s per corner. The regular Centerline RPM Series have a 1200 # Load Rating, and the Sport Compact RPMs have an 1,100 # Load Rating. Technically, neither of these wheels are correct for the LGT. It is interesting that the 215/45/17 tire has a 1,201 capacity, when there are wheels out there rated at 1,200. Realistically, the regular RPM series at 1,200 #s should be OK, but they also have the undesirable 42mm offset. The 1,100 # Sport Compact "might" cause a problem. FWIW, the Taurus SHO guys were looking at these wheels, but the load rating on the stock 215/60/16 SHO tires was 1,477#, although the cars themselves are in the 3,300-3,400 # range. One guy got a set of RPMs anyway, and did get cracks in the front wheels after a few months. It's just something to keep in mind. Also, to use an extreme example, if you had an accident involving a cracked wheel, and someone was seriously injured/killed, the fact that the wheel was less than the mfrs capacity rating could be used against you.[/QUOTE] By "Load Rating of 1201 #s per corner", are you referring to pounds (or abbreviated - lbs)? If so, certainly anything within 10% should fall under acceptable margins.
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[quote name='Patagonian GT']By "Load Rating of 1201 #s per corner", are you referring to pounds (or abbreviated - lbs)? If so, certainly anything within 10% should fall under acceptable margins.[/QUOTE] Yep, I'm referring to pounds per corner. It was not by coincidence that the rating ended up being 1201, rather than 1200, as that technically makes 1200 pound wheels over the approved mfrs rating. Also, to use another example, Tire Rack won't sell you tires that are under the mfrs rating. As an example (not necessarily saying that someone would do this), but if you wanted to buy a 215/35/18 tire with an 1102 pound rating, Tire Rack won't sell it to you for the LGT. Of course, you can get it by telling them it's for a car that can accept that rating (BTDT for another car).
Ron
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very rare that you'll have a rim failure, as the tire pressure is what determines the final load capacity on the tire.. even if a tire has a 1200 lbs load capacity (at max recommended tire pressure, see your tire sidewall for the number), but you are only inflating them well below the limit pressure, your tire load capacity will not be 1200 lbs.. it will be way less than that. Keefe
Keefe
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The report of cracked wheels on a Taurus SHO has me concerned. Do centerline wheels have a reputation for being weak in general? Is their "rotary forging" technique inferior to standard forging? As crazy as it sounds, I have been considering getting 225/55-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires just for pothole protection after hearing reports of bent stock LGT wheels. Here in Hawaii we have some potholes 4 inches deep because of some serious rain. Almost makes me want to get an Outback.
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Normally rims that are not properly inflated is the number one reason for rims getting damaged.. if you dont have enough air in the tires, the sidewalls will fail to hold up the car, thus the rims will be doing all the work of holding the car up and rolling. Tire pressures is something I can't stress enough. 225/55/17 is too big.. you'll just have to inflate your tires properly.. get some tires that have rim-protectors. You can always go wider but run the same profile size to add more sidewall AND some higher load capacities.. my suggestion is that you can cram a 235/45/17 if you can find that tire size. A 245/45/17 is doable on a stock rim, but it is NOT recommended for spirited driving. Keefe
Keefe
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[quote name='Xenonk']very rare that you'll have a rim failure, as the tire pressure is what determines the final load capacity on the tire.. even if a tire has a 1200 lbs load capacity (at max recommended tire pressure, see your tire sidewall for the number), but you are only inflating them well below the limit pressure, your tire load capacity will not be 1200 lbs.. it will be way less than that. Keefe[/QUOTE] But that is the rated load capacity per the mfr (as well as folks like Tire Rack and Discount Tire who sell you the tires). And it is pretty obvious that the rim capacity must be at least the tire's load capacity......at least as it comes from the mfr.
Ron
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[quote name='Autophysics']The report of cracked wheels on a Taurus SHO has me concerned. Do centerline wheels have a reputation for being weak in general? Is their "rotary forging" technique inferior to standard forging? As crazy as it sounds, I have been considering getting 225/55-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires just for pothole protection after hearing reports of bent stock LGT wheels. Here in Hawaii we have some potholes 4 inches deep because of some serious rain. Almost makes me want to get an Outback.[/QUOTE] Centerline wheels have had a great reputation for many years. But, you must follow their recommendations. The SHO in question was an V6 ATX. Now, I have an MTX SHO in the garage, and the front GVW is 2,512 #s. Since the ATX is heavier, let's assume another 100 #s. He got the RPM wheels with a 1,200 # per corner limit, and his max GVW (5 passengers, full gas & luggage, etc) was probably 2,612 or so, or 1,306 per corner. Sounds like it should be fine for normal driving, but he started getting cracks in the two front wheels after a few months. Remember that there are also dynamic loads on the wheels beyond the static weight limits. BTW, When he talked to Centerline at the time of purchase, they did NOT recommend putting these wheels on a SHO....but he did anyway. Now, looking at the plate on my driver's door, my LGT Ltd Wagon has a GVW on the front of 2,295 #s (and the rear is 2,340 #S, FWIW). From a practical standpoint, I would personally feel comfortable putting 1,200 #/rated wheels on it. Although the wheels are "1 #" less rating than the 215/45/17 tires, the wheels are above the rated GVW for each end of the car (wheels x 2). I would NOT be comfortable putting the Sport Compact RPMs with only 1,100 #s rated capacity, though. I would not get those tall tires. Kills some of the power and throws the speedo/odo off. Keep your tires inflated properly. Sorry if I'm not too sympathetic, but I don't see how potholes in Hawaii are even close to what we have on virtually every road up year in "frost heave" country!! A road with 4" deep potholes is called a "freshly resurfaced road"!!
Ron
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and tell that to the people that buy the wrong size tires for their cars.. it really doesnt matter if the tires are rated to match the rims at the least when people dont even check their tire pressures. Is a flat tire worth using with a rim? Of course not.. yes, the rims and tires at least have the same load capacity, but with improperly inflated tire, the load of a tire would mean nothing and you are relying on the rim to do all the work (which will result to rim failure). If I use the logic of what you are implying about getting a rim with the correct load capacity, then most of us WOULD be using super hard concrete type wheels that can take a beating to its finest and not worry about the tire's load capacity (because it would be wise to get a tire that will match the wheel's load capacity). Then the next thing to worry about is tire failure because no matter how high the load capacity is, a flat tire is useless to everyone (unless you like to run around on pure rim and a rubber band for a tire). It's not going to end... Everyone will get the most dense set of rims with the tallest and stiff side wall around.. it will get to the point where every car should look like a BIGFOOT truck to make sense. Granted, one should get rims that can support the car's weight, but one should worry about inflating the tires more so than a rim bending. Remember the Firestone SUV tire recall? 90% of tire failure comes from improper tire pressure. I have (and owned) 12 sets of rims, and my 1st set was the only set that was bent.. It was because the tire I chose (and I was improperly eductated on the matter) resulted me in not only failed tires, but bent all 4 rims from just daily driving. I have gone through "knots and bubbles" on the tire side walls (granted the tire had rim protectors on it). I started a search and I did choose a rim that had the correct load capacity (in fact, more than stock rims, 690kg versus 650kg stock), the tires were also rated as well to match the rim load capacity at 1500 lbs. The problem was from improper tire inflation, thus the rims were bent, regardless the load capacity of the rim.. Keefe
Keefe
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[quote name='Xenonk']and tell that to the people that buy the wrong size tires for their cars.. it really doesnt matter if the tires are rated to match the rims at the least when people dont even check their tire pressures. ..............................yes, the rims and tires at least have the same load capacity, but with improperly inflated tire, the load of a tire would mean nothing and you are relying on the rim to do all the work (which will result to rim failure). If I use the logic of what you are implying about getting a rim with the correct load capacity, then most of us WOULD be using super hard concrete type wheels that can take a beating to its finest and not worry about the tire's load capacity (because it would be wise to get a tire that will match the wheel's load capacity). ........................... It's not going to end... Everyone will get the most dense set of rims with the tallest and stiff side wall around.. it will get to the point where every car should look like a BIGFOOT truck to make sense. Granted, one should get rims that can support the car's weight, but one should worry about inflating the tires more so than a rim bending. Remember the Firestone SUV tire recall? 90% of tire failure comes from improper tire pressure. I have (and owned) 12 sets of rims, and my 1st set was the only set that was bent.. It was because the tire I chose (and I was improperly eductated on the matter) resulted me in not only failed tires, but bent all 4 rims from just daily driving. ..................... The problem was from improper tire inflation, thus the rims were bent, regardless the load capacity of the rim.. Keefe[/QUOTE] Proper tire inflation is routine maintenance. It is not a factor in this discussion any more than regular oil changes are routine maintenance. Bottom line is that if you don't perform any of the routine maintenance, you will have problems. The stock wheel/tire setup will have problems in that regard, much less aftermarket. I don't understand your comment about "super hard concrete wheels". The stock wheels have the proper load rating (I don't know what it is, but I'm sure that it's well over 1,200 #s). You are hung up on this inflation thing, and this whole discussion assumes proper inflation. This issue isn't that complicated. There are just a few things to watch for if you wish to stay complaint with the mfrs recommendations (if , for no other reason, than to avoid being sued later in case of an accident). 1. Check to load rating for each end of the car on the drivers door. Each wheel should have half the full rated capacity (GAVW) for each end of the car. 2. Get whatever tires you want, but be aware that reputable tire stores will not sell you tires with a lower rated capacity than the stock size. Yes, you can get around it by specifying a vehicle that comes with the tires you want, but just be aware of what you are doing. With regard to (2.) above, one thing that trips up people is that most lower profile tires (going from 45 to 40, for example) will have a lower load rating. In the case of an LGT that already comes with 45s, this isn't gonna trip people up that much. On older cars I've had with stock 55-65 ratios, this became a problem when I couldn't get much of a wider tread width to make up the load capacity difference.
Ron
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