UrbanlegacyR Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Any expert here custom made their brake duct to cool the rotors? Or are there any brake ducts for BL5? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRS Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Not brake ducts, but Prova has carbon fiber air guides to direct flow toward the front disks to enhance cooling... http://www.jprova.co.jp/products/brake/u3eqp3000000lakq-img/u3eqp3000000lamo.jpghttp://www.jprova.co.jp/products/brake/u3eqp3000000lakq-img/u3eqp3000000meqd.jpghttp://provadirect.free.makeshop.jp/shopimages/provadirect/0050000000032.jpg Available from JapanParts.com and Prova Direct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=642912 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbanlegacyR Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 Wow! Thanks for the great info. But brake duct thing looks nice but damn pricey too. I am just wondering anyone here DIY his own brake cooling duct. I read somewhere in Tirerack that it can be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 With the Racecomp ducts, where does the air come from? Do you have to remove fog lights or any other stock components? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 yeah you would want to remove the fog lights to instsall the ducts. The reason the STi has the covers and no fog lights is because its very easy to install a brake cooling kit. On our cars its more difficult. It's one of the reasons I haven't done big power upgrades because the brakes would need cooling for how I drive the car at HPDE's and such. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 What's an HPDE? Not a day at the drags, I hope:lol: I run my car on road courses where practice sessions are 20 min. and all out time trials are about 5 minutes, depending on the course (Lime Rock, Watkins Glen). With my current setup of Carbotech XP10 pads and dedicated race rotors, I can match or outbrake any STI. I get away with this because time on track is so short-but I still have to be very careful to cool down the rotors slowly after a run. I'm thinkung about ducts just as an added margin of safety to protect my rotors from warping. On the street, brake ducts are never necessary - even if you have 1000 HP. Until you've driven on a road course, you have no idea of how much abuse brakes can be subjected to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 Wow! Thanks for the great info. But brake duct thing looks nice but damn pricey too. I am just wondering anyone here DIY his own brake cooling duct. I read somewhere in Tirerack that it can be done. sure, if you want to use cheap hose and watch it burn/melt.. the ones that Racecomp supplys are rated for such heat and isolation and used in many race cars.. You can make your own if you like, but you'll find that the heat generated from the rotors will really get the zip ties or metal ties hot.. your hose may just fall part from the high heat. My DBA 4000 rotors have exceeded 1250F.. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 With the Racecomp ducts, where does the air come from? Do you have to remove fog lights or any other stock components? YOu can route it however you like to make it work (I would like to remove the foglights). You can just go ahead and mount the intake portion at the front of the lower front bumper dam to retain your foglights if you like. Im going to try to find a shop to go ahead and create a funnel intake to replace the stock foglights. Either case, you'll have to cut a hole through the fender liner to pass the hose through. Or you can pass it under the skid plate, but I wouldnt do that if you are a kind of a driver that does a lot of "farming" out on track. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 What's an HPDE? Not a day at the drags, I hope:lol: I run my car on road courses where practice sessions are 20 min. and all out time trials are about 5 minutes, depending on the course (Lime Rock, Watkins Glen). With my current setup of Carbotech XP10 pads and dedicated race rotors, I can match or outbrake any STI. I get away with this because time on track is so short-but I still have to be very careful to cool down the rotors slowly after a run. I'm thinkung about ducts just as an added margin of safety to protect my rotors from warping. On the street, brake ducts are never necessary - even if you have 1000 HP. Until you've driven on a road course, you have no idea of how much abuse brakes can be subjected to. XP10?? that's not enough (our cars are too heavy to use XP10s), you need XP12 or XP16. I think it can make it worse for warping because of the cold days.. in the summer it's fine to prevent the heat from building up so if you can keep your rotors just under 1000F to 1100F, you'll be fine.. just let the rotors take their time cooling down and spend the last 2 laps driving just 3/10ths and dont use the brakes.. I never park the car with the ebrake and I use wheel-stops or tire-chocks when roll off from the track when I park my car so long as you are not pinching the rotors as they are cooling, they wont warp that bad.. most of the colder days, it's best off to tape up the brake ducts to prevent warping. I assume you are using 2-piece rotors with aluminum hats? Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 What's an HPDE? Not a day at the drags, I hope:lol: I run my car on road courses where practice sessions are 20 min. and all out time trials are about 5 minutes, depending on the course (Lime Rock, Watkins Glen). With my current setup of Carbotech XP10 pads and dedicated race rotors, I can match or outbrake any STI. I get away with this because time on track is so short-but I still have to be very careful to cool down the rotors slowly after a run. I'm thinkung about ducts just as an added margin of safety to protect my rotors from warping. On the street, brake ducts are never necessary - even if you have 1000 HP. Until you've driven on a road course, you have no idea of how much abuse brakes can be subjected to. HPDE, lapping days, you know. The same thing you're doing. Yeah after every sessions I make sure to drive around a little bit to let the brakes cool. Didn't have any problems last year. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCCA GT Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 I use stock rotors GS1 brake pads & no brake ducts .One race is 30 to 40 mins with no brake fade or rotor warping. It does melt some stuff ABS wires & tie rod end covers .My Legacy GT has the track record at Hallet ,OK & Memphis Raceway park .SCCA t-3 .I do thing brake ducts would be nice to have .But you can get by without them . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 1) Do the dust shields make things worse (e.g. is it better to remove them)? 2) Are the DBA 4000 rotors significantly better than stock? 3) Have overheaded my SS-Ms. Looks like Panthers have higher rating (1250 deg). Would that be an improvement over the SS-Ms as far as performance under heavy braking? Would XP8 be better and still "streetable"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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