Door speakers with maximum "woof"?

[hal9e3]

Back on track, MB Quart QSD216s. Unbelievable! They don't have real deep bass but the bass they do have - wow! I used to take the speaker covers off my old GS-R just to marvel at their incredible travel. One caveat tho - they're VERY inefficient. 150-200W/ch MINIMUM required. These may be discontinued as I see this place blowing them out.

[PGT]

Q's are nice. I have had several sets of the step below Premium series...basically the first gen Q's relabeled after the current Q's were released.

[hal9e3]

that's exactly right. the OEM sub has it's own internal crossover, but the input is full range and speaker level off the rear channels.

 

Wait a sec, the significance of this just hit me. So if I adjust the fr/rr fade I'm changing the bass level too?

[OhBe1]

Inquiring minds want to know...

[PGT]

Wait a sec, the significance of this just hit me. So if I adjust the fr/rr fade I'm changing the bass level too?

 

if you fade forward, less bass all the way to no bass. In the middle F/R or to the rear and you have full bass. Not ideal at all....you'd be better to rewire the sub input off the front channels.

[bjmsdrum00]

that's exactly right. the OEM sub has it's own internal crossover, but the input is full range and speaker level off the rear channels.

 

i remember reading on here that the factory sub has its own output from the HU? i remember because i was asking how to hook up an amp to the factory HU and someone suggested getting a high-low level converter and hooking it up to the spot where the factory sub gets it signal (i have no factory sub, but i believe that the signal is still there)

 

correct me if i'm wrong

[PGT]

the sub harness is a t-harness the plugs into the factory harness (and then the radio). 100% it's getting signal off the rear feed, not a dedicated one.

[Mr. T]

2 questions:

1. Can you adjust the OEM sub and if so, how?

2. If I install some new speakers wiht a 2 inch depth in the doors, do I have to use some sort of spacer to keep from losing the bass?

 

Thanks,

[mwiener2]

http://www.newscientist.com/article/mg18224473.700-speakers-with-more-woof.html

[NSFW]

Awesome.

[Mr. T]

2 questions:

1. Can you adjust the OEM sub and if so, how?

2. If I install some new speakers wiht a 2 inch depth in the doors, do I have to use some sort of spacer to keep from losing the bass?

 

Thanks,

 

I have searched and so far cannot seem to find the answers to these 2 questions..

 

 

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

[PGT]

1. yes - the OEM sub has controls on it for x-over and level

2. as long as the speaker fits and is sealed to the door, no worries

[Mr. T]

1. yes - the OEM sub has controls on it for x-over and level

2. as long as the speaker fits and is sealed to the door, no worries

 

 

Muchos Gracias!

 

Hey, my 500th post!

[whobaru]

I've just read this thread and feel it necessary to chime in and lend a hand. I installed and sold hundreds of car systems (cheap and very expensive) for many companys over many years, so I hope you will trust my input.

 

A factory speaker such as those in our LGT is made of very lightweight paper-like materials and consequently easy to move and very energy efficient. This is to allow a relatively low-power amplifier to produce decent dB (decibel/volume). If you install an aftermarket speaker to be ran by the same amp, you may even lose dB. An aftermarket speaker is much better built with better materials and a larger magnet, so it is consequently heavier, harder to move, and less efficient, but has more peak power HANDLING, better fidelity, improved separation, and will last longer. What I'm getting at is if you install an aftermarket speaker (especially something as power hungry as the Qs), you will probably lose some or a lot of bass and a little dB. Sound familiar anyone?

 

As far as the clipping: In any system, as you increase power you increase distortion. When a factory amp like ours starts out with over 1% THD (Total Harmonic Distortion), it only gets worse as you turn up the volume. In addition, as an amp heats up, distortion increases. As distortion increases heat increases. It snowballs! So keep in mind, if you like it loud, don't play it too loud for too long. What I'm saying is the clipping you're hearing is distortion from the amplifier making the speakers move back and forth irregularly causing them to bottom out and (as I like to call it) flap around. It's a combination of the speakers and the amplifier. A better built aftermarket speaker won't, "flap around" as easy, so is subsequently harder to distort, BUT only performs well when given more power that can move it accurately.

 

If bass is what you seek, deadening the doors will always help, but doing this is better at preventing vibration and lessening road noise than it is increasing bass output. When you install sound deadening material like Dynamat, you will notice better speaker performance mostly because of decreased road noise, and sometimes a little because of improved air space stability.

 

The easy, simple fix to the problem of insufficient bass is a factory sub. The next easiest way is what I have done. I seek the same thing you guys do.

 

I have added an aftermarket subwoofer amp in conjunction with a 12" sub. My (and most) amplifier(s) have the capability of a remote bass knob to adjust the bass boost to one's preference. This knob can be installed anywhere you can reach it. I can now use the factory stereo settings to back the bass off of the interior speakers such that they can get much louder without distorting (bass is the main thing that sucks power and causes distortion). This allows more of the bass to come from the sub and lightens the load on the factory speakers. Note: mid-bass accentuates sub bass, so don't turn it down too much.

 

What I now have is a pretty kick-ass system until the paper in the speakers starts to degrade. This is the downfall of every factory system. High/low temps., dust, shock, vibration...you can imagine the effects this has on paper. I'm just waiting for a good dash kit solution to come out so I can throw the rest of my stuff in. For now, I can turn it up quite loud and choose exactly how much bass I'd like for a given song (using my bass-knob) and am even a little surprised with how good it turned out. I'm using pretty high-end equipment for my bass, so I've got that advantage anyhoo.

 

Hopefully this helps! I aim to rid the world of bad sound!

[FJuan]

I did my system a few months ago and I only replaced all 4 door speakers. On the front doors I had to use an 1" spacer since my new speakers were 2.25" depth. Here are some pics of the install.

 

1" spacer with speaker

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/ped2509020ee799b6b67420e50104fa5f/e8b87323.jpg

 

 

Front view

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/pbafd72753d22ff5a386cdb93e817461b/e8b872db.jpg

 

 

Dynomated the major holes

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p628c89fa9f3280e70c9c46e1cf50b7d2/e8c40cfd.jpg

 

 

Placed polyfoam behind the speakers to increase mid/bass.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/peae6182abde93c067537aa5e1a8af508/e842f0c1.jpg

 

 

Then covered the hole door with polyfoam w/foil backing for a sealed enclosure.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p28060952ff5501dfcdb04b4939c52e8b/e842f074.jpg

 

 

This makes a huge difference in sound and in sound levels. Plus giving much more mid/bass throughout the ranges.

[Mr. T]

I did my system a few months ago and I only replaced all 4 door speakers. On the front doors I had to use an 1" spacer since my new speakers were 2.25" depth. Here are some pics of the install.

 

1" spacer with speaker

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/ped2509020ee799b6b67420e50104fa5f/e8b87323.jpg

 

 

Front view

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/pbafd72753d22ff5a386cdb93e817461b/e8b872db.jpg

 

 

Dynomated the major holes

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p628c89fa9f3280e70c9c46e1cf50b7d2/e8c40cfd.jpg

 

 

Placed polyfoam behind the speakers to increase mid/bass.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/peae6182abde93c067537aa5e1a8af508/e842f0c1.jpg

 

 

Then covered the hole door with polyfoam w/foil backing for a sealed enclosure.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p28060952ff5501dfcdb04b4939c52e8b/e842f074.jpg

 

 

This makes a huge difference in sound and in sound levels. Plus giving much more mid/bass throughout the ranges.

 

Nice pics. Where did you get the polyfoam? Is Dynamat Extreme a good alternative?

[FJuan]

Nice pics. Where did you get the polyfoam? Is Dynamat Extreme a good alternative?

 

 

I used Dynamat light to cover the large holes in the door, which is totally optional because the polyfoam does a great job of it's own. Dynamat Extreme is good if you don't mind the additional weight and cost to do all 4 doors.

 

For the best bang for the buck, just head down to Home Depot or Lowe's and pick up a roll of this for around $16 bucks, 1 roll should cover all 4 doors.

 

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/pde4e927a62acc934d33680077f453839/e842f1c6.jpg

 

 

Plus pick up a can of 3m all purpose adhesive $10 - $15.

[whobaru]

DIY Dynamat...I love it! Good install. Good pics.

[whobaru]

Subarus typically have 5 1/4 speakers. Those look like 6 1/2. Am I correct? I hope so, I hate 5 1/4 and am about to install some 6 1/2 no matter what.

[FJuan]

A typical 6.5 should work. The basket on my 6.5 are a little bigger than the standard 6.5. On the rear door I had to modify the hole with a trusty hammer, by tapping the metal back until the speaker fit. For the fronts the spacer fit just fine.

[GTB4me]

anyone got any idea what size the standard speakers on a 97 GTB are? and what i could could comfortbly fit in there with a decent headunit? also how much an OEM sub would be? and if they even make them to fit 97 cars?

[Mr. T]

For the best bang for the buck, just head down to Home Depot or Lowe's and pick up a roll of this for around $16 bucks, 1 roll should cover all 4 doors.

 

Plus pick up a can of 3m all purpose adhesive $10 - $15.

 

Another great idea (and a way to save a few bucks)! Thanks:cool:

[PGT]

Another great idea (and a way to save a few bucks)! Thanks:cool:

 

keep in mind the purpose of a sound dampening mat is to add mass to the panel. that stuff pictured doesn't do this, though it's cheap and effective at sealing the door cavity. Elemental Designs sells a dynamat alternative that's very inexpensive and available by the foot (vs. others who sell 50sq ft +)

[whobaru]

keep in mind the purpose of a sound dampening mat is to add mass to the panel. that stuff pictured doesn't do this, though it's cheap and effective at sealing the door cavity. Elemental Designs sells a dynamat alternative that's very inexpensive and available by the foot (vs. others who sell 50sq ft +)

 

DUDE! You just made my effin year!! I have long resented Dynamat and their ridiculous prices! THANK YOU!!

[PGT]

most welcome, but be sure to thank ED...they are the ones who are turning 12V on it's head with great products for reasonable prices.