sutter2k Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/320/Control-Arms-?model=10&category=8 Anyone try these out? thoughts? Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDC Tuning Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 i have them, gotta install they are 2 arms total we sell them too http://www.tdctuning.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_22_28&products_id=360 im going to design another arm to match for the swaybar mount arm TDC Tunings LGT Forum Cobb, Perrin, APS, Invidia, Megan racing and MORE!! Your #1 source For Subaru / Legacy GT performance parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 me likey. yum, rear camber adjust...mmmmmmmmmmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sutter2k Posted December 18, 2006 Author Share Posted December 18, 2006 i have them, gotta install they are 2 arms total we sell them too http://www.tdctuning.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_22_28&products_id=360 im going to design another arm to match for the swaybar mount arm Be sure post a review. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 I'm assuming these are for the rear. Do the bumpstops still work? Do they hit the flat spot on the larger rod end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDC Tuning Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 I'm assuming these are for the rear. Do the bumpstops still work? Do they hit the flat spot on the larger rod end? has nothing to do w the bumpstops the pics u see are NOT what you get TDC Tunings LGT Forum Cobb, Perrin, APS, Invidia, Megan racing and MORE!! Your #1 source For Subaru / Legacy GT performance parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainmorgan Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 So I'm assuming that the real ones look more like the rear trailing arms for the Imprezas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDC Tuning Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 Wysiwyg TDC Tunings LGT Forum Cobb, Perrin, APS, Invidia, Megan racing and MORE!! Your #1 source For Subaru / Legacy GT performance parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 Jon, did you ever get my PM about those rear arms? Never got a response from ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 If the spherical rod end bearings on these are anything like the ones on the Perrin sway bar end links, they'll be making a racket after one Winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerseyglock Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 Jon, did you ever get my PM about those rear arms? Never got a response from ya. +1 Jon, I have left you IMs, voice mails (both at work and your cell) with problems I'm having.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wangspeed Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 Those rod ends won't last on the street. They're unsealed. Look at the Evo for the right way to do it. Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmachine Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Those spherical rod ends are not even needed in this application. The wheel only moves in a vertical plane. A regular poly bushing and metal sleeve is more "street" friendly. The Whiteline arms on my WRX were of this design,and never gave me or the current owner any issues. The search continues. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrin Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 TDC's picture shows the longer STI link, but it is very similar to the LGT arm. This arm replaces the lower front lateral link, and allows for camber adjustment but pushing the bottom of the wheel in and out. This doens't replace the upper arm with the bump stop, and we most likely will not build that arm as that bump stop can't be built into the arm without making the retail price way out of line. The rear lower lateral link is one we are working on and you will see it very soon also. This bar will allow for some added toe adjustment, but its main benifit is to get rid of those rubber bushings. Regarding the sphearical bearings. We used to supply rod end seals on other control arms long ago. But none of them last. In oregon weather not a big deal, but in salted road areas nothing lasts forever. Over the years we have use a couple different type of rod ends and found that the normal teflon lined rod ends are great for a while, but loosen up and can rattle as the teflon pounds out. The rod ends we now use are constructed differently and have an injected molded Nylon for the inner race and steel for the outer. This keeps the ball from ever "pounding" it self loose. We have used this for about 2 years in salted road areas with great success. Many people think that if there are rod ends installed the NVH goes way up. But for just those reasons mentioned above, because the arm moves in a verticle path over bumps, this just simply rotates the rod end on the ball. The NVH from the road and tires doesn't transmit throught to the car because of this. If the NVH was working against the rod end in a direction that the rod end can't move, then yes it would be louder than a rubber bushing. Once people get them installed, they will notice virtually ZERO difference in noise. But they will notice the difference in performance. Besides an alignment tool, the control arms do eliminate 2 rubber bushings. These rubber bushings flex while cornering, and cause tire misalignments. Overall this can make the car feel soft or not as contolled. Get the full benifit, replace both the front and rear would make the most noticable difference, but like i said, the lower rear is something you will see soon. I hope that answers some questions and concerns about the lower lateral links for the LGT. BTW, we don't use urethane on these types of connections as they still flex, and there is no noticalble NVH from the solid rod ends. But we could do a urethane verion, i would be much less expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 BTW, we don't use urethane on these types of connections as they still flex, and there is no noticalble NVH from the solid rod ends. But we could do a urethane verion, i would be much less expensive. Personally, I would be interested in the urethane version because of the serviceability of the bushings. Do you have a projected price point on the rear lower arms (either urethane or spherical)? ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrin Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 Spherical are the ones on our site. They are $280, at least that is our retail price. When we were designing them the possible urethane version would be about $50-80 cheaper. Urethane sounds like there is less maintinence, but in areas with salted roads, you will be dealing with greasing them and squeaking alot. At least that is what we get with swaybars and our urethane bushing. The only reason to offer the urethane is they can be cheaper and satisfy those worried about the NVH. Even though there isn't an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 The only reason to offer the urethane is they can be cheaper and satisfy those worried about the NVH. Even though there isn't an issue. Send me a pair at cost and I'll run the pi$$ out of them on the salty Chicago streets this winter and report back in the spring! ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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