HIDs with factory DRL functionality - has it been achieved?

[jdkobe]

Obviously I'm talking the DRL now producing 100% wattage output.

 

In working with member zuczec, we are both under the impression that if one uses a harness kit that has ballasts getting their power directly from the battery, that HIDS should maintain their 'on all the time' functionality, yet turning off when the EBrake is up. In this configuration using the 'harness', we are assuming that eventhought the DRL will still reduce wattage, to the trigger, the trigger will tell HIDS to go on, and Ballasts will pull 100% power they need to work correctly from the battery.

 

Thoughts?

 

Anyone else figure out a way to get HIDs to work with DRL?

 

(please don't let this become a tread about value of HIDs or disco DRL and turn-on headlights - we get that, just exploring other options and ideas )

 

Thanks

JDKobe

[NutBucket]

You're likely right, that even at lower voltage the relay will still trigger. Personally I would switch the DRL's to the high beams. I think they're more effective that way.

[VXCL]

click the link in my sig, go to 1st page, scroll down for wirining diagram. The DRL system varies voltage across the ground not the oem +. it is a constant 12-14v. if it did you wouldnt be able to trigger a 12v relay off it.

 

peace

[laz]

Yes you can do it. Just connect a relay to ground, and turn on the relay from the lower ground DRL brown wire. Hope that makes sense. If you send ground to the relay, it will not be diminished like the DRL circuit does it.

 

If it does not make sense, I can explain more.

 

X

[jdkobe]

VXCL - Hello again! I've been studying your diagram and it looks like we are talking the same idea by using a Xtec direct connect harness.. but, I like LAZ's idea too - that is if I follow it.

 

Laz - are you saying I just need to snip and permanently ground the brown wire out of the DRL plug - thus achieving a constant ground (and bypassing the ground currency reduction that the DRL module introduces)?

 

Guys - once again, there are a lot of great ppl on this board willing to share expert knowledge - thank you!

[laz]

Not permanently ground it because if you do then your lights will never go off, but switch them with a relay to ground since from what I saw the DRL module sends a lower ground which is why you get a dimmed output wen DRL's are running. It is almost like you had a bad ground on the headlights.

 

By switching to a good ground via a relay you should not get the lowered output, but a good 14V.

 

I can draw a diagram if anything.

 

X

[VXCL]

if your going to install a relay might as well do it under the hood and completely isolate your xenon kit from the car's oem electrical circuit. trigger off the pink + on the drivers lamp, ground both ballats and relay off the chassis, and power the ballasts directly off the batt. easy to get to, easy to work on, no messing with any oem circuits.

 

after all the custom work i've done on my cars in the past from xenon retros to custom body kits i learned never modify anything unless you have to.

 

peace

[BIU]

what you guys said mean nuthing to an electrical dummy like me lol...

 

so in lame man's terms..... Is this achieveable?

[VXCL]

what you guys said mean nuthing to an electrical dummy like me lol...

 

so in lame man's terms..... Is this achieveable?

 

yes i've been running my d2s xenon system as DRL for over a year now.

 

peace

[GTS Jeff]

if your going to install a relay might as well do it under the hood and completely isolate your xenon kit from the car's oem electrical circuit. trigger off the pink + on the drivers lamp, ground both ballats and relay off the chassis, and power the ballasts directly off the batt. easy to get to, easy to work on, no messing with any oem circuits.

 

This is a a good idea with an HID kit, because the initial 15s warm up of the HID system draws more amperage than most OEM halogen wiring setups are designed to handle.

[lookslikeanevo]

is it really that hard to turn your lights on?

[GTS Jeff]

is it really that hard to turn your lights on?

Are all 3074 of your posts so useful?

[lookslikeanevo]

^nope

 

but its a serious question... you cant take an extra second to flip you lights on?

 

and its 3723

[GTS Jeff]

^nope

 

but its a serious question... you cant take an extra second to flip you lights on?

 

and its 3723

hahaha

 

Actually, what I personally do is just leave the lights on all the time, since they will shut off with the car anyway.

[VXCL]

^nope

 

but its a serious question... you cant take an extra second to flip you lights on?

 

and its 3723

 

the prob with that is then your running all your lights during the day. i don't like that. plus the license plate bulbs are a B#$%#@$*@#$ to get at to change so for me DRL is perfect.

 

Also like stated above the initial startup of xenon's draw alot of amps. about 20-25 depending for both combined. I personally like to have my xenon system completely isolated from the oem circuits, dash switches, etc.

[lookslikeanevo]

what do you mean by isolated from the oem circuits?

 

did you actually put a switch for your xenons? or are you reffering to a relay?

 

licsense plate bulbs? how likely are those to go out?

[VXCL]

what do you mean by isolated from the oem circuits?

 

did you actually put a switch for your xenons? or are you reffering to a relay?

 

licsense plate bulbs? how likely are those to go out?

 

its isolated becuase of the relay powering them directly off the batt and the diode placed in line off the oem + to prevent any reverse flow from the relay.

 

as far as the license plate bulb, normally they do last a long time, but running them all the time has to cut down on that and honestly after replacing one already i have no desire to deal with the stupid trunk carpet, the plastic trim, and pop its. and it will def burn out in the winter when its 12 degrees out with a wind chill of -2. im telling you thats when it will happen. in cali you dont have to deal with that.

 

main reason for keeping the drl is so i can just have my headlights on without anything else and the dash stays lit up without the lights switched on.

[richip]

On a slight tangent (I asked this before, but a year ago, I don't think we had as many people with auto electrical know-how), is there an easy way to rewire DRL so that it lights up the amber front parking lights (in dimmed setting) instead of the low-beam headlights?

 

I want daytime visibility without compromising my (soon-to-be-installed) HID light system and the amber lights seem good for visibility.

[ShadowImg]

On a slight tangent (I asked this before, but a year ago, I don't think we had as many people with auto electrical know-how), is there an easy way to rewire DRL so that it lights up the amber front parking lights (in dimmed setting) instead of the low-beam headlights?

 

I want daytime visibility without compromising my (soon-to-be-installed) HID light system and the amber lights seem good for visibility.

Everyone will confuse you with a GM vehicle.

 

I was actually thinking the fogs would work...

[richip]

Everyone will confuse you with a GM vehicle.

Not a bad idea for that sleeper look, .

I was actually thinking the fogs would work...

Probably not since I'll be upgrading mine to PIAA IONs. Still, any tips for modifying DRLs to use other lights would be appreciated.

[VXCL]

im sure there is an easier way by messing with the drl circuitry itself. but you could always splice the low beam wiring to the parking lamps then use a relay triggered off the oem low beam ground to power up the normal low beam when you actually turn the lights on in the car.

 

may sound confusing and a diagram would def help. thats the long way of doing it. if some1 has the wiring diagram for the drl you could prob switch some things.