John M Posted December 9, 2006 Author Share Posted December 9, 2006 I should both clarify and correct what I posted -- it obviously doesn't change fueling maps; it should have said "timing." The original OS ECU map made changes to both the base and advance timing maps. I simply used the stock base map and moved all the changes to the advance map. No knock = happy multiplier = more of the advance map's contents is used. Base timing map increases may make the car feel "peppier" in low-load conditions but I'd rather stay on the side of caution and confine my changes to the advance map until I can log its effects on my car. I don't blindly trust tunes from the general public. You know what they say -- trust but verify! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewScooby Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 Well, I was able to cut the wire tie I had holding the oil drain clamp and it looks like it's on there properly. Today I got the intake pipe back on without having to remove anything else. The rest looks easy. I'm waiting until I can cut down the bolt I used to plug the EGT sensor hole in the UP ( M12 x 1.25 pitch if anybody needs one). Then it's a simple matter of reconnecting the coolant lines and oil supply -- all thankfully within easy reach. Now I'll wait some more on the Invidia catted DP. Maybe it'll arrive in the next 2-3 weeks. The day it arrives I'll have my car back on the road. I'll use the downtime to do more work on my ECU map. Thanks for the bolt size!!!!, I just got my Invidia UP/DOWN pipes this week and I'll run out for that bolt tommorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 Where is the Vac T line and why did it get disconnected? They would not cover that under warranty? DId you try? Let me know where to check this Vac T line....want ot make sure mine is NICE and tight...I'm scared m turbo will blow any second after reading this thred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted December 15, 2006 Author Share Posted December 15, 2006 It's at the front of the intercooler, between it and the manifold. It's pretty common to have it blow off. Others have posted pics of the T. I didn't ask Subaru to cover it because it wasn't their fault. I knew the line was off and drove anyway. At that point I didn't know what had caused the turbo's failure anyway; it could have been an UP cat failure caused by increased boost. I didn't know until I removed everything that it was still ok. In the end, that may not have been the problem anyway. The car drove for another week before the turbo grenaded. I hear the VF40 may have inherent reliability issues too. Adding clamps or even zip ties will prevent the lines from blowing off. Subaru is the only manufacturer of turbo cars that I've ever seen *not* clamp every vac hose. Mitsubishis have literally dozens of clamps under there. And if anyone is still following the original subject of the thread, my car still drives fine and is no longer dripping any oil. It recently quit smoking out the exhaust (burning oil from the last turbo's demise) and only sometimes do I smell a little of the remainder burning off under the hood. It has more than plenty of power -- I like Stage 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 Are you running your own custom stage 2 map? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 Yeah sorry to go off topic like that.... but to continue...ok so I guess I just didn't know the official name of that line...is it connected to the intercooler? I've taken the intercooler off 20 times by now. (long story) So if it is attached I am very familiar with it. I guess I should super glue it on then. Won't it throw a CEL if the line isn't plugged in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaos22B Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 I don't get the fuss, usually I cuss once or twice at the oil return for slipping, but otherwise it pops in just fine. edit: i apply a little oil onto the compressor inlet lip before trying to slide it into the inlet pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted December 16, 2006 Author Share Posted December 16, 2006 Yeah sorry to go off topic like that.... but to continue...ok so I guess I just didn't know the official name of that line...is it connected to the intercooler? I've taken the intercooler off 20 times by now. (long story) So if it is attached I am very familiar with it. I guess I should super glue it on then. Won't it throw a CEL if the line isn't plugged in? It's against the intake manifold in the center, between the IC and manifiold. You can see it without removing the IC but you can't really reach it without removing the IC. I never got a CEL. I just got low boost (8-9 psi) and no power since it was running really rich as a result. Kaos22B -- The oil return hose is too tight to reinstall with the clamp already in place, and there's no way in hell you're reaching the clamp once the turbo is installed. Mine didn't want to go on there without the clamp either. The hose end kept collapsing instead of letting the metal tube slide inside it. Next time I'll put the return hose onto the turbo and work on hitting the lower connection point instead -- the other end of the return hose can be reached from below and I may have a better shot at that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted December 16, 2006 Author Share Posted December 16, 2006 Are you running your own custom stage 2 map? It's put together from the Open Souce ECU ROMs site (osecuroms.org). I'm using the fuel & timing tables from one map and a modified STi throttle table from another map. Then I'll log it and see what I want to change later on. I'm still running a MBC; I won't change to ECU-controlled boost until I get a different solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaos22B Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Kaos22B -- The oil return hose is too tight to reinstall with the clamp already in place, and there's no way in hell you're reaching the clamp once the turbo is installed. Mine didn't want to go on there without the clamp either. The hose end kept collapsing instead of letting the metal tube slide inside it. Next time I'll put the return hose onto the turbo and work on hitting the lower connection point instead -- the other end of the return hose can be reached from below and I may have a better shot at that. I guess after all the ones I've done my arm just tweeks to reach it easier Seriously though, just a tip if the oil return is being a pita. Actually clamp it (not with the stock spring crap, an actual clamp) to the bottom metal tube that goes into the head, now, it WONT budge once you're trying to stick the turbo drain into it, then just make sure the top of the tube isn't fubar'd and it should slide in fine (I suppose if it's deformed/not round anymore, then you're in for some fun), then you can use the spring clamp after (your zip-tie idea was right on the spot) since it's not pressurized, and the oil isn't going to move UP past that point. I've usually angled the turbo into the inlet pipe, lined up the return, then slowly got the up-pipe studs to line up. If all else fails I can remove a couple of the studs and put them in after the turbo is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaos22B Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Z32 300ZX, the list goes on... Oh god, you can't pay me enough to do one of those again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Now that your old turbo is out, were you able to see what broke? Any pictures? Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted December 16, 2006 Author Share Posted December 16, 2006 Exhaust side Intake side Nothing really catastrophic. The UP cat didn't disintegrate so as best I can tell the turbo just seized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 It looks like the bearing disintegrated and the wheels went into the housings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 I know this is an old thread, but i had a question for anyone that may have an answer. Replaced my 100k VF40 with a VF52 and nice bell mouth catted DP. I have a tiny tear in the inlet hose to the turbo and am pulling a MAP low voltage code. Since the MAP sensor is fed off the Turbo Vacuum and Mani Pres, is seems to me that id get a MAF code before a MAP. Also, has anyone run into this problem previously? Checked the vac lines and all are on and uncracked. Honestly the only thing i see is a tiny slit under the clamp holding tab because of the turbo/dp rem/rep. P0106 or P0107 both have popped. If anyone has had this, id appreciate the story. Thx in advance, Ticker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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