crazyravr Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 I went and test drove this white with black cloth interior LGT. WOW !!!! Now I want it even more then I did before just looking at it. What to look for in in this car (wear/tear/maintanance) ?? It has 55000km or 35000 miles on the odo. I felt the brakes were a bit weak should that be the case after so few miles? Anything else I should have a look it ?? Also... what would be fair price to offer for this car? I am thinking $25K (CDN) which would be around $23K USD. Thanks for any help/info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 way under 23K (then again, i dunno what kinda tariffs you guys up north encounter). that's def enough miles for the brakes to begin to wimp out a little. what else to look for? well, most people don't seem to be having major problems. the best you can do is search the forums here, my friend; and welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t0ad Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 I picked up my used 05 5eat sedan for $19350 with 28300 miles on it if that tells you anything. Sounds like it should be much cheaper, I'd haggle to around 19k if it's auto, 18.5k if it's manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravisS Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Check the cooling fan. Turn OFF the A/C, key to acc, get out of the car and see if the cooling fan is running. It affects '05 GT 5MT cars, so, probably that one. Requires replacing a relay and the ECU, which could be costly off warranty (soon!). I too think that's too much, though I don't know exactly what the situation is in Canada. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyravr Posted August 25, 2006 Author Share Posted August 25, 2006 Well a brand new LGT costs $10K more up here then down where you guys are (just to give an idea on idiotic SoC pricing). I dont think the dealer wont go much below $25K CDN ($23K USD)....... but you never know. But damn did I like that 20 minute test drive heheeh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vimy101 Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Well a brand new LGT costs $10K more up here then down where you guys are (just to give an idea on idiotic SoC pricing). I dont think the dealer wont go much below $25K CDN ($23K USD)....... but you never know. But damn did I like that 20 minute test drive heheeh. The current crop of newer Subarus were probably built when the C$ was at US$.75. SOC isn't the only business trying to grapple with a loonie approaching par with the greenback after 20 years of an undervalued C$. SOA is having to buy more expensive Canuck made parts now. What kind of brakes are you comparing this LGT to? I find the LGT brakes quite good but a little vague when you first step on the pedal. It's probably time for 30k (50k kms?) maintenance interval. Tires are probably shot and the dampers have served half their service life. Where in Canada was the car driven for most of its life? AT or MT? What's the asking price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyravr Posted August 25, 2006 Author Share Posted August 25, 2006 Vimy, - I am comparing these brakes to VW jetta brakes which have 100K km on them - tires are in OK shape, dampers I dont know - car was driven in Ontario - 5spd m/t - asking price is $27999CDN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two-Five Sti-L Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Check the cooling fan. Turn OFF the A/C, key to acc, get out of the car and see if the cooling fan is running. It affects '05 GT 5MT cars, so, probably that one. Requires replacing a relay and the ECU, which could be costly off warranty (soon!). I too think that's too much, though I don't know exactly what the situation is in Canada. Can you be more specific about this? Is the car supposed to be cold or hot during this test? Also, I presume the fan IS A PROBLEM if it turns on under the condition you described? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru_terrence Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Go check the autotrader 05 white LGT 5spd with 53880km for $25995 in Willowdale Subaru 05 legacy 2.5i 5spd with 6500km for $16500 in SASS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravisS Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Can you be more specific about this? Is the car supposed to be cold or hot during this test? Also, I presume the fan IS A PROBLEM if it turns on under the condition you described? TIA Original thread about the issue: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10568 Thread for the TSB http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40207 Specifically, engine is cold (so fan should not be necessary), A/C is off (fan running with on is normal). Put key in ignition to acc, or start the car, and the left fan will turn on full blast, though it's completely unnecessary to do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two-Five Sti-L Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Original thread about the issue: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10568 Thread for the TSB http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40207 Specifically, engine is cold (so fan should not be necessary), A/C is off (fan running with on is normal). Put key in ignition to acc, or start the car, and the left fan will turn on full blast, though it's completely unnecessary to do so. I saw a car this past wknd and tried out the fan using your method. The first time (car was warm) the fan turned on under your described conditions. However, after taking it for a spin and subsequent cooldown for ~1/2 hr, the fan didn't turn on again when ignition was turned to acc. So I guess the car is ok? What is the long-term detrimental effects of the fan problem, besides shorter fan/relay useful life, or issues w/ECU as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 If the problem isn't evident yet, you simply buy the new relay yourself, insert it, and enjoy years of trouble free use. The new relay prevents the problem from ever happening. Once the problem has happened, I can only assume it will continue to harm the ECU until it is remedied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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