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How long do cats last?


Legasee

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OEM cats? they can last awhile.. possibly a good 10 years, some manufacturers suck and maybe only last like 3 years.. it depends on how hot the cat was designed to be set, and if the car runs uber rich or some fluke case of where the car just keeps spitting in fuel and ultimately burn up the cat's elements inside causing them to break down.

 

Of all the cars I have owned and ran them all passed 100,000+ miles, I havent had to replace one yet. You'll know when you have to replace one, it's when that CEL pops up with that code saying that you need a new cat ;)

Keefe
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it really depends on how hot your EGTs are.. eventually the element in the cats will start to break apart from all the fluxuations from the temps. That cat is suppose to act like an oven and do what it needs to do to convert any unburned fuel or whatever there is into CO.
Keefe
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the UP cat in my old sedan started to break loose after about 28k miles stock & 2k miles with a stage 1 map. Got it out before it destroyed my turbo luckily.
"Barack Obama, mothaf#%@a! Barack Obama! I'm the president...of hittin' the ass!" -this is not a political view it's merely a quote from a hilarious tv show.
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:lol: I dunno about ALL of em. That's up to you. I'm impaitiently waiting to get about another 1k miles on my wagon to delete 2 of em though.
"Barack Obama, mothaf#%@a! Barack Obama! I'm the president...of hittin' the ass!" -this is not a political view it's merely a quote from a hilarious tv show.
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No, I'm not referring to the ones with 9 lives :lol:...but wonding how long OEM cats last compared to aftermarket cats (metallic substrate cat)? How often does the OEM STi up require fixin' or a new one? Thanks for your help :) .

 

OEM STI up = no cat = no fixin

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which ones you deletin'?

 

UP (replacing with a catless STI Up) & DP ( replacing with a crucial shorty DP). I've got these parts sitting in my shed. I took em off my sedan before I traded it in along with a perrin TMIC & a borla catback. I'm only keeping the OEM cat in the midpipe section. Still have a sweet TDC map for that setup too. That car was awesome with that setup.

"Barack Obama, mothaf#%@a! Barack Obama! I'm the president...of hittin' the ass!" -this is not a political view it's merely a quote from a hilarious tv show.
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+1...might as well get rid of all the cats just to be safe, huh?!

 

Or keep the UP Cat and get a new turbo/UP when it fails!:lol:

 

I believe that the "emissions warranty" is like 10 years. In general they're designed for the life of the car like the rest of the exhaust.

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It depends upon a lot of things...

 

IMHO, the number one factor is the tune of the car. If the engine isn't burning all the fuel and dumping it into the exhaust then it will burn in the catalytic converter. This is the purpose of the cat to prevent the extra fuel from being dumped into the atmosphere. This will really heat up the cat and will severely shorten its life.

 

High EGT will definitely affect the pre-cat (the one in the uppipe).

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I have read about older WRX UP cats breaking up, but no Legacy UP cats doing that... yet.

I think if you leave the stock UP in, and watch the EGT's after mods, and don't see an increase, you should be OK!

I wonder why some people suggest to leave the 3rd (midpipe) cat in? COBB has referred to this as 'the most restrictive'?

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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^ some race rules need that last cat to be in place, while others is a simple way to avoid the P0402(?) check engine code instead of running catless.

 

 

 

Isn't there also a sensor in the up-pipe cat too? I'm still not sure how someone would get around that with the OBD-II tests. As far as I know, doing the resistor mod to eliminate the check engine line from the up-pipe sensor, it would still flag a "not-ready" code at inspection time when they do the OBD-II test causing the car to automatically fail because the senor isn't reading.

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