CasopoliS Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 So I know they are the same headers, bolt locations, etc.... but are the uppipe studs EXACTLY the same? I know an STI uppipe fits the LGT, but does there need to be wiggle room? Here is the problem - I bought 2 sets of used GP Moto equal length headers. 1 set was barely used and all the slip fits are fine and open. There are 4 slip fits total, which allow plenty of wiggle room to get all bolts to line up. The other set has welded slip fits. Meaning NO wiggle room. I understand this will be much harder to get into place, but once there... should everything line up? They were welded on an STI, not an LGT. Just wanted your thoughts on this. We are going to have an install day this weekend, and the unwelded headers on going on my car - and the welded headers are going on Trabbics car. I figured I would test fit the welded headers on my car before putting the un-welded ones on.... that way we can make sure they will install into Trabbics before tearing apart his whole setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 MODS - when I go to intake and exhaust, it only shows me 6 threads. where are the other 400+ ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 You should be fine with the welded ones. Our long block is indentical to the STi, so everything should line up. Many people say that installing headers with an integrated up is a huge pain, and it is tougher than doing a simple up, but as long as you have the car high enough and you unbolt and jack up the passenger side motor mount, it goes pretty smooth. You just need to figure out the right way to twist the uppipe section into place and the rest will all follow. Sorry I can be more specific on the twist part, but it will become obvious when you get started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 The one problem I see with the welded slip... there's no room for expansion, etc. when the unit heat cycles.. It could POTENTIALLY create undue stress on the header itself. NOTE: To see the rest of the I/E threads, go to the settings on the bottom and change the time filter. "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 The one problem I see with the welded slip... there's no room for expansion, etc. when the unit heat cycles.. It could POTENTIALLY create undue stress on the header itself. NOTE: To see the rest of the I/E threads, go to the settings on the bottom and change the time filter. Thanks to the both of you. Yea I saw that setting later. It never used to be like that. I think we will be able to make it work. Slip fits are nice for expansion, movement, etc.... but added stress should not be an issue. The metal will expand and contract as needed. It is a good concern to have, but I think they will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balrock Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 did you get your stage 8 locking nuts? Shutterfly | Shared pictures not available theres is how you get some room when installing the pipes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 did you get your stage 8 locking nuts? Shutterfly | Shared pictures not available theres is how you get some room when installing the pipes need to rehost the image elsewhere.... not working anymore. ImageShack® - Hosting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balrock Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CYuW7dqxbMS4¬ag=1 try this click view pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balrock Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 http://shim1.shutterfly.com/procgserv/47b6d800b3127cce98548ca8180e00000017108CYuW7dqxba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balrock Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 http://shim1.shutterfly.com/procgserv/47b6d800b3127cce98548c97990100000017108CYuW7dqxba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balrock Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 http://shim1.shutterfly.com/procgserv/47b6d800b3127cce98548cc9995f00000017108CYuW7dqxba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuxtaGT Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I've installed a GP Moto header that was from an STi and welded together. It was a PITA to get on, but it works. I had to loosen the turbo brackets, that is the only place to get wiggle room. Be careful when loosening the front turbo bracket though, it is easy to damage the TGV sensor that is right near the bolt (like I did). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 I've installed a GP Moto header that was from an STi and welded together. It was a PITA to get on, but it works. I had to loosen the turbo brackets, that is the only place to get wiggle room. Be careful when loosening the front turbo bracket though, it is easy to damage the TGV sensor that is right near the bolt (like I did). oooh thanks for the heads up. Great post! Thanks for the pics balrock - nice photoshopping! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedracerx Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 We just installed my used GP Moto welded/coated header a couple of weekends ago. It was the easiest UP install we've ever done (vs. WRX/STi). But, we have a rack and a tranny jack to push the motor up off the mount...makes the install really simple! After seeing the leaking and rattling issues from the joints on the first GP Motos, I would definitely weld them up. I understood that the later version came pre-welded from the distributor. -HSR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 Thanks for that great info. We will see if I have any leaks. If so... maybe I will get mine welded. I would guess you would tack weld all 4 slip fits, then take it off, then fully weld them. Right? If I end up having to do that, can I resue my crucial copper gaskets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 If I end up having to do that, can I resue my crucial copper gaskets? Hey bro. You know how I love them Cu gaskets, right? <---- not a tongue-in-cheek statement at all, I *honestly* do like them and prefer to use them. With that in mind, I would advise against re-use of the Cu gaskets. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 Hey bro. You know how I love them Cu gaskets, right? <---- not a tongue-in-cheek statement at all, I *honestly* do like them and prefer to use them. With that in mind, I would advise against re-use of the Cu gaskets. In order to use copper gaskets, which are ideal looking at a mechanical stand-point, you have to (ideally) spray / coat them with permatex copper sealant, install them to torque specs, heat cycle, retorque, heat cycle, retorque, etc until they don't need retorqued. You might need to retorque them 3 times as the copper forms to the surfaces. The soft copper is ideal for non parallel, or knicked surfaces (to slight degree). It will conform as needed. I agree that it might be bad to reuse them, because they have crush rings that get compressed the first time you use them. They get both good and bad reviews.... I think I am going to try them because I have read more good than bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 MODS - when I go to intake and exhaust, it only shows me 6 threads. where are the other 400+ ? Look at the bottom of the page where it says "show posts from". The drop down menu probably has "last day" selected. Experience is something you don't get until right after you needed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 Look at the bottom of the page where it says "show posts from". The drop down menu probably has "last day" selected. thanks... yea figured that out like 5 minutes after I posted. duh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 In order to use copper gaskets, which are ideal looking at a mechanical stand-point, you have to (ideally) spray / coat them with permatex copper sealant, install them to torque specs, heat cycle, retorque, heat cycle, retorque, etc until they don't need retorqued. You might need to retorque them 3 times as the copper forms to the surfaces. The soft copper is ideal for non parallel, or knicked surfaces (to slight degree). It will conform as needed. I agree that it might be bad to reuse them, because they have crush rings that get compressed the first time you use them. ^ My thoughts/beliefs exactly - including that very last, ending, sentence. Best of luck on your re-use. Please let me/us know how it works out! <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedracerx Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 We've done quite a few UP/DP and header installs, and have had the best luck using FACTORY gaskets. They have been the best! On the flip side, we have had horrible luck with the copper ones, and the heat cycle retorque etc. is a major pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 The copper ones I have from crucial are brand new in packaging, you think I could sell them on nabisco for the same price I can buy OEM? Do you heat cycle OEM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedracerx Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 With the Factory gaskets, we do a fire up while still on the rack, check for leaks, etc., let it cool off a little, recheck torque on a few bolts...button up and go! Never seems to need retorque. -SRX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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