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Driver's window switch died today


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noticed the toggle switch has felt clunky for the last few months. today, it just stopped working altogether. frustrating but I guess it can be replaced fairly easily.

 

long past my warranty period so gotta find out what the part costs from the dealership on Monday.

 

anybody else having a clunky switch?

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yeh, it got stuck in the 'auto' position. happened to me last week; was out of the car for like 10 minutes, returned to find window uncooperative on startup (must have been stuck), switch felt a little inclined to stick in 'auto' when flicked back and forth. after 30 seconds or so leaving it alone (not stuck position), power returned. no probs since, but now more careful to make sure it's not stuck when/after i use it.
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My driver switch for the driver side rear window just went. Most little things that break I can live with, but damn not being able to control the windows!
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It's crappy Nissan made switch. It eventually always dies. In my 98 Alitma it started dying after 8 years. Just replaced it.
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So I

 

removed the door panel

removed

& completely disassembled the switch (really didn't need to)

 

 

Here’s what I found:

 

The drivers window switch is actuated by a "slide" type switch, while all the other windows, locks, an such are "rocker" type

 

"My" problem was a "plastic pin".

Being it's a slide switch, it uses a spring and plastic pin to re-center itself in the pocket.

 

When I opened it up, I thought the bottom of the pin looked a little too sharp. (Pointed)

 

I made it nice and round with a small file.

 

Snapped it back in....

 

NO GO, same notchy feeling as before.

 

 

 

So then I "flattened out" the very tip, leaving slightly rounded sides.

 

BINGO!

 

Works as good as, if not better than new.

 

 

I have a feeling I'll be doing this job more than once.

 

 

Sorry no pictures.

 

Notes:

 

There are 5 screws to remove the switch from the back of the door panel.

(Looks like 4, but there IS 5)

 

For this particular fix, there is no need to completely disassemble the switch.

 

Remove it from the plastic garnish, and you can pry the driver switch "rocker" off from the top.

 

Be careful not to break the rocker/lever.

 

Don't loose the pin or spring on top of it.

 

The rest is obvious.

 

Good luck!

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mines clunky too
258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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  • 1 year later...
mine stopped working today for a few minutes. definitely sticky. another thing that needs to be fixed. :mad:
258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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My switch wouldn't work a couple weeks back, made a funny plastic noise when I pushed it and then wouldn't work. I tried a few times more to no avail, then I locked and unlocked the windows several times (button by the driver window button) and hear another funny plastci noise, then the driver window buttom worked, has been working since. I will bring this up at my next trip to the dealer.
My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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mine stopped working today for a few minutes. definitely sticky. another thing that needs to be fixed. :mad:

Weird. Mine did the same today... stuck for a moment and then worked. Sounds like a common fail point.:redface:

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^^thought I'd let it go as long as I could, but considering it rained yesterday, and I couldn't get the window to work for a short period makes me want to replace the switch now vs. when it's stuck for good.
258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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mine has been sticking for over a year now. i forgot to get it looked at while i had it under warranty. on a side note, it only has the problem with rolling down. In the 30+ times it has happened to me it has never been a problem for longer than 5-10 minutes and it has never been a problem with rolling it up, only down.
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So I

 

removed the door panel

removed

& completely disassembled the switch (really didn't need to)

 

 

Here’s what I found:

 

The drivers window switch is actuated by a "slide" type switch, while all the other windows, locks, an such are "rocker" type

 

"My" problem was a "plastic pin".

Being it's a slide switch, it uses a spring and plastic pin to re-center itself in the pocket.

 

When I opened it up, I thought the bottom of the pin looked a little too sharp. (Pointed)

 

I made it nice and round with a small file.

 

Snapped it back in....

 

NO GO, same notchy feeling as before.

 

 

 

So then I "flattened out" the very tip, leaving slightly rounded sides.

 

BINGO!

 

Works as good as, if not better than new.

 

 

I have a feeling I'll be doing this job more than once.

 

 

Sorry no pictures.

 

Notes:

 

There are 5 screws to remove the switch from the back of the door panel.

(Looks like 4, but there IS 5)

 

For this particular fix, there is no need to completely disassemble the switch.

 

Remove it from the plastic garnish, and you can pry the driver switch "rocker" off from the top.

 

Be careful not to break the rocker/lever.

 

Don't loose the pin or spring on top of it.

 

The rest is obvious.

 

Good luck!

 

*read all ^, then scrolled up to see where you're located* :lol:

In Taiwan now...:spin:
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