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Stock gutted DP - stage 2?


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Hammer & Screwdriver......pressure washer & air compressor:)

 

Did the same gutting of the UP & DP early in ownership.

 

Let me tell you this....there is quite a bit of power difference between that setup & my COBB UP/DP now.

Toyota 6EATS .........SUCK!!!!!!
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I used the hammer and screwdriver method for a little while. Then I borrowed a large iron spike (like what you'd use on a vampire). The cat disintegrated in seconds.

 

May not be an ideal setup, but you can't beat the price, and it certainly looks stock.

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Just my thread!!! I have gutted my 1st and 3rd cats - and will be doing the 2nd and final soon - anything I should know about, or be worried about?

Any problems with running or boost issues?

I'm pleasantly surprised... It was most certainly worth the couple bucks and 10 mins of my time.

CLICK HERE FOR THE HOGZAUST

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I gutted the UP cat, but I think you know how hard that is!

 

The cat in the DP is super easy, it is ceramic and breaks apart like nothing. I have already noticed a definite increase in boost and turbo spool noise.

 

I will flash to stage 2 tonight.

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  • 3 weeks later...
si

Confused.... This is straight from COBB.

 

I ask:

I've replaced the OEM UP and DP in my 2005 LGT wagon. It still has the last cat and stock mufflers. K&N filter. Is this Stage 2 or 1?

They answer:

The 3rd cat is the big restriction. If you replace that with a high flow cat or a catless section, the Stage 2 mapping would be more feasible. If you leave it on, I would suggest using the Stage 1 mapping.

 

Cheers,

Justin

COBB Tuning

So... where does that leave people in my shoes?

I like the stock mufflers and the 3rd cat because it is quieter (and I want a sleeper).

 

This is like a Stage 1.5 or something.... I guess one could go either way.

 

Anybody have comments about this specific scenario?

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i have all 3 cats gone and my car is almost SILENT! only when i hit full throttle can i SOMETIMES hear the exhaust from inside the car, but from what others keep telling me... "your car is so quiet!" which i love about it. i have ALL OEM parts, just gutted the uppipe, midpipe and downpipe, AP Stage 2 with TDC maps. holy hell!!!! it rocks!
Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!!
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Confused.... This is straight from COBB.

...Anybody have comments about this specific scenario?

 

Wow!

 

That's surprising indeed - I've always thought, from convention (by reading the countless threads here on LGT.com), that although "optimization" of the Cobb "Stage II" off-the-shelf map doesn't occur until one steps to a full-catless TBE, what is "necessary" to run their off-the-shelf "Stage II" map is the simple replacement of the DP. :icon_surp

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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^ To add.....

 

In my stint of a little over a year here on LGT.com, it's my understanding from reading the countless posts from fellow LGTers, as well as from the Cobb AccessPORT FAQ, that what is "optimized" versus what is "necessary" for their off-the-shelf "Stage II" map is indeed as I've cited.

 

Here's a direct copy-paste from their website (I hope they don't mind, as this discussion pertains *directly* to their given advice, which is now becoming self-contradictory....)

 

 

Q. What is needed for Stage 2?

A. We actually field a lot of calls with people wanting the Stage 2 AccessECU because the dyno graph looks a lot better, but they do not have a turbo-back exhaust. Here is a diagram of the exhaust to help you visualize:

 

http://www.cobbtuning.com/images/wrx-exhaust-diagram-2.gif

 

The Stage 2 was tuned on a car with a full turbo-back system. If you have pieced together a less than optimal combo of parts or those that were not designed to work together you may not get the full benefits of the Stage 2 AccessECU. Boost may not come on as quickly and the peak power may be down from those that have a well designed full turbo-back system. If you have replaced the first section (second cat or downpipe section) and nothing else, then the Stage 2 map is what we would recommend. Again the results will be far less than optimal, but it will control the boost better than the Stage 1. If you have replaced sections 2-4 (third cat, mid-pipe, and muffler section then you are still Stage 1. You managed to get all except the part that makes the most difference. Again, we want to reiterate that Stage 2 will only get the intended results with a well designed complete turbo-back.

 

 

Red color added for emphasis - no text altered.

 

Reading through this passage again, it once more reflects that yes, a full catless TBE optimizes the tune, but with even a "shorty" DP, Stage II is their recommendation for best boost control, and is indeed chosen over Stage I.

 

Looking for definitive answer to this....... :(

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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^ Don't get me wrong - I have nothing but the utmost respect for Jon and TDC.... :)

 

What I want cleared-up here is *specifically* the advice coming from the mouth of Cobb's technicians.

 

What they wrote to mlloydlgt versus what they've got written in their own FAQ is contradictory, and with the number of LGTers here running "Stage II" off-the-shelf with "only" a shorty DP, well, this does pose some concern....

 

Hope you understand where I'm coming from. ;)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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