AWDxBOOST Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 itd be easier to get an old cap and mount a spigot in there instead....then itd just screw on and you could still put the rubber piece in the inside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Holy old thread, batman. But, seems better to append to this one than to start a new one ... WHY is this method better than simply installing Speedbleeders (the bleeder screws with a one-way valve in them), openig each bleeder screw, and then pumping the pedal awhile ? Also, what order do people recommend ? I've seen starting from the wheel cylinder farthest from the master cylinder (and working to the closest one), or vice versa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 New cars have different braking systems so you need to check the manual to see how to bleed the brakes. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 New cars have different braking systems so you need to check the manual to see how to bleed the brakes. The factory manual soecifies a procedure that is pretty much the standard old-fashioned procedure (pump the pedal, loosen and then tighten the bleeder screw, release the pedal - repeatedly). P.S. They also say to check the pedal stroke afterwards - by measuring the distance from the steering wheel, between no foot on the pedal and about 100lb force, and it should be 3.75" or less. With the engine running and warmed up. If it's more, it means you have air in the system. This is different, that the method I've always used - seeing if the pedal gets higher/stiffer with pumping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Python Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml Summary: you might be pressuring your new fluid with moisture and air! This brings us to the imitations. There seem to be a rash of products available lately that claim to be pressure brake bleeders at a fraction of the cost of the professional units. Like most things that sound too good to be true, well, it’s exactly that. Like the professional units, these imitations contain a pressure vessel into which new brake fluid is poured. However, in order to pressurize the fluid, an integral pump handle is cycled to build the pressure inside the vessel without any measures taken to separate the pressurized air from the fluid. For those of you who have ever bought a $19.95 do-it-yourself potted plant and bug sprayer from Home Depot you get the idea. Of course, having pressurized air in contact with the brake fluid will certainly force the fluid through the system just as effectively as the high-zoot professional unit, but as an added bonus we are stuffing air into the brake fluid at the same time. Talk about an unwanted surprise! While it may not be visible to the naked eye (air can actually entrain itself in the fluid as to be visually undetectable) it’s there right along with all of the nasty moisture trapped inside of it. This of course begs the question: if you are stuffing air and water contaminated fluid into your brake system, why even bother bleeding it in the first place? Naturally there will be those who argue that the amount of air in question is not important enough to worry about, but think about this for a moment: nearly every automotive manufacturer stores their bulk brake fluid in large containers which are subjected to a constant VACUUM. Talk about an expensive process! If just storing your fluid under regular atmospheric conditions isn’t good enough to keep air and water out, just imagine what shoving 30psi worth of compressed air on top of it is doing. The professional units can cost hundreds of dollars, and for good reason; unfortunately the cost keeps them beyond the reach of most of us normal folks. Your best bet is probably to get back in the driver’s seat and begin stroking the pedal with your foot again, but ultimately the choice is yours. We have had this on our side of the pond for some time; http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=674&item=1818 Very similar to the home-made system at the start of the thread and when I changed the ABS unit on my Vauxhall Vectra, I refilled the system using it with absolutely no problem whatsoever and it braked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.