Xenonk Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 [url]http://www.racingbrake.com/index.html[/url] I emailed them to see if I can be the prototype for the HP rotors for the GT.. but my question is, how many of YOU GT OWNERS out there want a set? I need to gauge the interest more carefully so that we can get them to mass produce these suckers! Anyone? Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 id definatly squeze a set of thoes! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBE555 Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 Not a thought until sometime early next year. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 Those look a bit bling. The most I'd really get is slotted rotors, but blanks are just fine for street/track, since this is a daily driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 Don't go for the cross-drilled rotors if you are serious about circuit racing, slotted are much more durable for that sort of duty. Standard blanks from Subaru are quite cheap, and have held up quite well even to my driving, but serious speeds and circuit use will have them warping in short order. DBA is working on creating a series in the size of the new Legacy, that should help expand the market options a bit. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 [quote name='apexjapan']Don't go for the cross-drilled rotors if you are serious about circuit racing, slotted are much more durable for that sort of duty. Standard blanks from Subaru are quite cheap, and have held up quite well even to my driving, but serious speeds and circuit use will have them warping in short order. DBA is working on creating a series in the size of the new Legacy, that should help expand the market options a bit. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url][/quote] Right, and I have never been a fan of cross-drilled type rotors. I really see no point other than "look." That and all of the horor stories about cracking and ugh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 Well, to get down to brass tacks - Street, daily driving, some windy road driving within reasonable limits: Whatever you want, from stock rotors to cross-drilled/slotted. But you really won't need much past the stock rotors other that for that bling value. Light circuit racing: Some level of more durable aftermarket rotors, whether blanks or slotted. Personally liked the slotted, they kept the bite in the pads, even if they did wear out the pads a little faster. Cross-drilled will just have a higher chance of cracking. Heavy circuit racing: Slotted two-piece, because you will be going through rotors quick due to using some pads with real bite, and two-piece reduce weight and reduce long-term costs due to just replacing the outer ring and not the hat. Cross-drilled are not up for this. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 [quote name='apexjapan']Well, to get down to brass tacks - Street, daily driving, some windy road driving within reasonable limits: Whatever you want, from stock rotors to cross-drilled/slotted. But you really won't need much past the stock rotors other that for that bling value. Light circuit racing: Some level of more durable aftermarket rotors, whether blanks or slotted. Personally liked the slotted, they kept the bite in the pads, even if they did wear out the pads a little faster. Cross-drilled will just have a higher chance of cracking. Heavy circuit racing: Slotted two-piece, because you will be going through rotors quick due to using some pads with real bite, and two-piece reduce weight and reduce long-term costs due to just replacing the outer ring and not the hat. Cross-drilled are not up for this. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url][/quote] Hmmm....so my presumtions we're generally right. Well at least we got Paul here with some track time to reaffirm it. :D Which brings me to the question: If cross drilled rotors are so prone to breaking, why do manufacturers like Porsche equip them as OEM parts? DO they assume that the owners never track the car? Do they profit off of these cracked rotors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAP Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 Anyone making light weight ceramic disks yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 4, 2004 Author Share Posted September 4, 2004 [quote name='Drift Monkey'][quote name='apexjapan']Don't go for the cross-drilled rotors if you are serious about circuit racing, slotted are much more durable for that sort of duty. Standard blanks from Subaru are quite cheap, and have held up quite well even to my driving, but serious speeds and circuit use will have them warping in short order. DBA is working on creating a series in the size of the new Legacy, that should help expand the market options a bit. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url][/quote] Right, and I have never been a fan of cross-drilled type rotors. I really see no point other than "look." That and all of the horor stories about cracking and ugh...[/quote] Majority of the time, the cracking and the warping is not due to the structural integrity par se, it's the cool down method of the brake... if anyone have gone to a track day, usually an instructor will tell you do be really easy on the brakes on the cool down lap so that the brakes get the proper cooling.. and when you pull into pits, dont use the e-brake, instead, put the car in gear and use wheel chocks when possible.. a lot of even today's street drivers come off the highway, slam their brakes, pull into a parking lot, yank up the e-brake, and just turn off the car.. that's how most of the problems start. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 4, 2004 Author Share Posted September 4, 2004 [quote name='DAP']Anyone making light weight ceramic disks yet?[/quote] I dont think you want to pay $500 per rotor. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 4, 2004 Author Share Posted September 4, 2004 [quote name='apexjapan']Well, to get down to brass tacks - Street, daily driving, some windy road driving within reasonable limits: Whatever you want, from stock rotors to cross-drilled/slotted. But you really won't need much past the stock rotors other that for that bling value. Light circuit racing: Some level of more durable aftermarket rotors, whether blanks or slotted. Personally liked the slotted, they kept the bite in the pads, even if they did wear out the pads a little faster. Cross-drilled will just have a higher chance of cracking. Heavy circuit racing: Slotted two-piece, because you will be going through rotors quick due to using some pads with real bite, and two-piece reduce weight and reduce long-term costs due to just replacing the outer ring and not the hat. Cross-drilled are not up for this. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url][/quote] Here are some of the better reasons of why there was an invention of cross-drilled and slotted: Slotted - the slotted not only helps gases pass out and not cause a layer of air (similar to hydroplaning with tires on water) or rain, the slots at the right impact of the brakes, scraps the brake pad to prevent the pad from glazing. Crossed Drilled - similar to the fashion of slotted as stated above, but uses the internal ventilated veins as the main escape route for hot gases generated from brake pads and the heat around it. If anyone ever looked at a brake-ducting of a race car (see this month's car and driver magazine and look at the Wiston Cup Car rear brakes), you will notice that the cooler air is butted up against the inner side of the rotor and the exhuast gases are vented out of the veins. If anyone ever drove on a hot day at the track without the use of track brake pads, you will know that it's fairly easy to overheat the pads, or "glazing" them.. basically rendering the brake pad grip as much as a block of ice rather than a solid grind stone. If anyone of you ever drove on the "Dragon" you will know that even riding down the 14-mile, 1-mile decent mountain drive at 40 mph can build up some serious heat and possibly glaze you pads and boil your brake fluid. A few slots and a few cross drilled holes are ok for a track day or autocross (ways to keep the brakes at operating temperature, not so much focus on bling).. I dont see the neccesity as far as a say a Porsche-design rotor for everyday driving. After all, it's the tires that make you stop. And you'll know when you have some monster brakes when you lock up a set of racing slicks without overheating the brakes. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAP Posted September 5, 2004 Share Posted September 5, 2004 [quote name='Xenonk'][quote name='DAP']Anyone making light weight ceramic disks yet?[/quote] I dont think you want to pay $500 per rotor. Keefe[/quote] If they worked as good as or better than the originals, were less than half the weight, and would last 200000 miles, I would. I would not spend $2000 per rotor though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted September 5, 2004 Share Posted September 5, 2004 here is my story. on my focus. i warped the rotors right off the bat. when i needed brakes i upgraded to ebc greenstuf pads and ebc sloted and dimpled rotors. very good combo. i couldnt warp the rotors if i tried and i couldnt get brake fade even when going from 100-0 twice with in 5 min. having the the brakes actualy smoking. i woudlnt jsut cahnge the rotors for no reason. if i found with my driving style they were warping or fading then i would upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agctr Posted September 5, 2004 Share Posted September 5, 2004 SO based on all this, for normal every day driving conditions (at the frequent late corner braking) what sort of pads would you go for and how much more wear does the cross slotted and drilled rotors do to the pads ? Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted September 5, 2004 Share Posted September 5, 2004 [quote name='Xenonk']If anyone ever drove on a hot day at the track without the use of track brake pads, you will know that it's fairly easy to overheat the pads, or "glazing" them.. basically rendering the brake pad grip as much as a block of ice rather than a solid grind stone. If anyone of you ever drove on the "Dragon" you will know that even riding down the 14-mile, 1-mile decent mountain drive at 40 mph can build up some serious heat and possibly glaze you pads and boil your brake fluid. [/quote] I had some serious pads and slotted rotors on my B4 twin turbo when doing the Tsukuba Time attack. Fantastic braking from slotted DBA two-piece and semi-carbon pads. Absolutely fantastic. The pads also wore out in 1500km of driving with about 40 minutes of total track time mixed in, and they also (edit: Totally) ate up the DBA rotors, which I've found are normally so hard they glaze up if you don't use at least a semi-aggressive level of racing pad with them. Which is why I wouldn't suggest such a level for people that actually drive on the street - yes, you may have far more braking than tyre grip, but can you afford to be changing them out every month? :D Porsche supplies the cross-drilled look because, simply, it looks great. And their customers want their car to look great in every aspect, all the way down to the brake rotors. They get around this by creating the holes in the casting process, rather than drilling them afterwards. Thus manufacturers of rather decent price/performance rotors, such as DBA, openly recommend going with their slotted rotors if you are going to do some serious circuit racing. I'll be honest here, though, in saying that for many of the weekend warriors at the circuit, non-slotted rotors would likely be just fine. The problem that actually arises is one of driver skill. There are means and methods to getting the most of your brakes at the circuit, and such skills are rather important all the way up to F1, for even if you can afford to replace your rotors and brakes every 10 seconds, you will be faster if you can make your brakes last that much longer than your opponents, saving you that much more time in the pits. I used to think I needed more and more brakes, but as my driving skills rose, I realized I simply wasn't using the optimal braking points and overshooting/late braking, which not only caused me to be on the brakes that much more harder and longer, but slowed down my entry speed (and thus exit speeds). Maybe not the most politic of things to say as a friend of the tuners, but an honest one, before you drop a wad of cash to decrease your braking distances by 5 feet, spending some time learning proper braking techniques and braking points may not only save you money, but decrease your time around the track much than those 5 less feet would. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agctr Posted September 5, 2004 Share Posted September 5, 2004 Thanks for the info above, great stuff. Quick Question, is DBA the brake company from Oz ? Adam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted September 5, 2004 Share Posted September 5, 2004 That is an affirmative. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agctr Posted September 5, 2004 Share Posted September 5, 2004 Fantastic, thanks. Do you know who imports the product into Japan? or is it just indvidual shops? Adam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted September 5, 2004 Share Posted September 5, 2004 Take an absolutely wild guess. ;) Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agctr Posted September 6, 2004 Share Posted September 6, 2004 Thanks Paul :D How are you going for import / export service ? Adam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted September 6, 2004 Share Posted September 6, 2004 lol, no no, not me. AVO japan has the distribution rights for asian region, and DBA does drop ship to them. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paisan Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 RacingBrake rotors are being tested by us currently on our imprezal L racecar and on several other cars. Once I get my Legacy GT next summer I will make sure they produce GT rotors. Currently there are 3 versions out: Street-slotted for light track use and street use with EDP coated tophats, quality units far better than stock. Street-slotted and drilled for the bling crowd. Racing- Compact Graphite slotted units. So far we've been using these for 10+ HPDEs and 15K street miles on Hawk HP+ pads on my '94 Legacy Turbo with Subaru 4-pot Calipers and they barely have a lip on them. On the Impreza Racecar it's done 10+ HPDEs and 2 Races running Hawk Blue Pads and no lip formed. Team IAC and AZP work closely with RacingBrake and visit them 1-2x a month. Feel free to contact us for more info. -mike [url]http://TeamIAC.com[/url] [url]http://AZPInstalls.com[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 I talked to Ken (and met him in person as well) from [url]www.racingbrake.com[/url] and he said that the mass-produced rotors "Street-slotted and drilled for the bling crowd" won't come around until 5 to 6 months from now. The other alternative he suggested to me was going with a 2-piece rotor if I was interested.. just a little FYI for you all from my findings. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highwaydrifter Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 i want these [img]http://www.dougrippie.com/images/c500rsr_front_caliper_and_rotor.JPG[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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