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how to change timing belt on 2.5???


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havent done mine yet. I would just make sure u check bearings on the tensioner & idler pulleys. Im pretty sure Gates has timing belt kits that comes with everything u need. Is it a regular car? (no serious mods or high hp/trq) go with a regular belt. if it is modded i would upgrade.

where in ohio

<------- close to me? I would be more then happy to help

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its actually my step sisters car, and it is completely stock as far as i know, so i will go with the stock belt. i live in defiance which is about an hour sw of toledo. its about 3 hours from cleveland and i dont know about grove city. i think i can do it but i just wanted to know if i need to know anything first. does anyone know if there is and special tool needed to lock the cams in place, or can i just use zip ties?
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make sure you go ahead and change the tesioner. some poeple will tell you to check it but the best thing to do is just change it. if you dont and you find the tensioner is weak later it may lead to the belt jumping a tooth ad then you gotta go through the entire head ache of doin al the work again.
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I believe our engines are the non-interferance style. The valves and pistons never occupy the same volume.... so even if the timing belt broke while running, the piston's wouldn't hit the open valves.

i've been told that about my engine in my leg(2.2) but i thought that the 2.5 can hit because of the longer stroke. if im right they both use the same block just different bores, so i would guess the pistons would come closer to the valves.

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Guest *Jedimaster*
Is that confirmation that we have a non interference engine? I'm kind of annoyed that the car came with a belt instead of a chain- chains might stretch but rarely break.
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i've been told that about my engine in my leg(2.2) but i thought that the 2.5 can hit because of the longer stroke. if im right they both use the same block just different bores, so i would guess the pistons would come closer to the valves.

 

If the bore is increased... then that is probably where you get the extra .3 L.

I don't think the stroke is any different.

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yes the stroke is different because if you put the crank and connecting rods in the 2.2 block the stroke is longer, you have higher compression, and the displacement would the be like 2.35liters. i know the stroke is longer, but im not sure if its long enough to come in contact with the valves. btw, as far as i know the reason they use belts instead is because they are considerably lighter than chains, and are strong enough for 4 cyclinders that dont put out crazy amounts of torque. if there replaced when they are supposed to be and your car doesn't have like 350hp they shouldnt slip or break.
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  • 2 weeks later...

well my brother, me and a couple guys got it done last saturday. it was quite easy, just time consuming. it takes atleast 1 other guy to hold the driverside cam pulley, and it was nice to have another to hold the belt on the other pulleys(me mostly). also it takes either one burly impact or a long pipe and wrench along with a specially fabricated tool to hold the crank pulley in place. im considering making some more of the tools to sell on ebay, as far as i know there is currently not anyone who makes one. with a stick shift it wouldn't be a problem, but since the car was an automatic there is no other way to get the crank bolt out.

 

if anyone else is planning on replaceing the timing belt and waterpump i know how to do it now and can guide you through it if you cant figure it out, but its not that hard with the right tools.

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I got 79000 miles on my original timing belt. When ya think it will require replacing?

 

 

And good move with replacing the water pump. Even if it were to stop leaking, they can stop when least expected.

 

better safe then sorry, especailly if u beat the car

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  • 3 years later...

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