07 Legacy Non-GT Passenger-Side Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Torque requirement?

[Flaris]

Hey y'all, how much force is required to remove the passenger side oil pressure sensor switch and, secondly...has anyone ever cracked the block just getting the sensor off?

I'm new to owning a Subaru, similarly new to owning Subi (she's been great and wonderfully receptive to tlc & repair!) and I've got a fairly moderate oil leak from the passenger side oil pressure sensor/switch that will.. from my estimates drain her dry in the span of three weeks without semi-regular top-offs.

So..once I get the clip off, how the heck do I get it off of there?! I've got a 24mm deep socket, torque wrench (HF 80lb max) and an extender as well as some pb blast if needed. It's not budging with regular ratchet and I seem to be making no headway with my breaker bar, either.

Anyway, thanks in advance. I'm just a bit..nervous given that I know over-tightening it can break the block, loosening shouldn't have that effect but I worry with just how much force it might need.

I plan to tighten to about 10lbs and slowly bump it up to 11 or 12 if problems persist -- assuming I can ever get it off I mean.

[Max Capacity]

The torque is low, Use some oil resistant teflon tape on the threads of the fitting and screw it in tight enough, not to tight, you can always snug it gently if needed.  It's tapered pipe threads.

 

YES, I have seen people crack the block.  Is this the sensor you are talking about ?

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+oil+pressure+sensor&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=Subaru+oil+pressure+sensor&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgAEAAYgAQyBwgAEAAYgAQyBwgBEAAYgAQyBwgCEAAYgAQyBwgDEAAYgAQyBwgEEAAYgAQyBwgFEAAYgAQyCAgGEAAYFhgeMggIBxAAGBYYHjIICAgQABgWGB4yCAgJEAAYFhge0gEJODM2NGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[Max Capacity]

 

[Flaris]

Hey Max! Thank you for the reply and the information. I had already watched the video and a few others, but none really go into specs and I can access it directly by taking off part of the air intake. I just..can't seem to get the sensor off, for some reason. It seems to be requiring an unusual amount of force, thus why I'm concerned.

Has anyone ever broken one by trying to LOOSEN the sensor?

(And don't worry, I do take the clip off when I'm working on it.)

Edited November 5, 2023 by Flaris
Additional information provided.

[Max Capacity]

Again, the tapered threads only need pipe tape and snugging. DON'T  try to get it so tight you break it.

I spent the last 20 years while working, making up test set ups, using lots of NPT fittings. You tighten enough, not over tighten. It's normal to see threads exposed when it's tight enough.

 

You may try to hit the head of the breaker bar with a hammer, making a home made impact wrench, while pushing or pulling in the off direction.

[Max Capacity]

I gather there are wrench flats on your sensor ?

 

 

[Max Capacity]

Are you using a 1/2" drive set up to break it loose ?

 

I would use a 3/8" drive when going together, that will limit the torque you can apply. AGAIN, don't over tighten it, tapered threads seal as they turn in when you have 4 or 5 wraps of teflon tape.

[Flaris]

I'll try that!

There are flats, I just can't seem to get it to budge. I'll give the bar a few taps and see if I get anywhere.

And don't worry! The reason I'm so nervous is because I know just how easy it can be to crack that block.

[Max Capacity]

Good luck, it should come out without to much trouble.  You may even slide a short piece of pipe over the ratchet handle to add leverage.

[Flaris]

Just now, Max Capacity said:

Are you using a 1/2" drive set up to break it loose ?

 

I would use a 3/8" drive when going together, that will limit the torque you can apply. AGAIN, don't over tighten it, tapered threads seal as they turn in when you have 4 or 5 wraps of teflon tape.

3/8". I think roadside ran off with my 1/2" when I had a blowout.

Do you think a liquid sealer would work? I've got permatex hi temp thread sealer, as its all I could find locally on the immediate.

[Max Capacity]

Personally, I have never like them. I was taught to use teflon tape many decades ago and still only use it. I think you have to let the liquid stuff set up before it seals...?  I must have 5 or 6 rolls of teflon tape around the house.

[Flaris]

Thank you. I went out and got some proper teflon to wrap it up with. I noticed that I had a secondary couple of droplets in the parking lot and it turns out my drivers side has a problem too with the VVL pressure switch, so I'm thinking that they sensors were never replaced/are original and are likely all past due for replacement at this point.

[Flaris]

I managed to get the old sensor off! Definitely seems OEM, not sure if it came with the car or not but Subi seems much much happier to have a new sensor.

I tightened it until I felt a mild resistance and felt it was "snug" and I'll give her some solid drives when daylight hits prior to work. No crack, but I'll continue being very very careful as I go. Very minimal leakage after a late-night fuel run, so I feel she shouldn't need too much in the way of further tightening -- but would rather be able to see what the heck I'm doing. Haha.

Thank you for all of the information, Max!

[Max Capacity]

Your welcome.

Don't be in a hurry to replace items, just because of age, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.  

At 306,000 miles, my 05 had all its engine sensor's it left the factory with. Except the O2's. 

[Flaris]

That's fair! I'm simply poking around now to see if I've got any other leaks from the drivers side sensors, but they seem to be fine so they'll stay!

[Max Capacity]

Next place to check for leaks, is the valve covers, here's the common spot.