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Project OBXT - AT vs MT


jonnyt88

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I got my project 08 OBXT 5eat Auto...    I scored a fairly cheap AP V2 for it used all is good there...

However the AP detects my car as an 08/09 Outback XT MT.   It offers up some tunes (which I do not see with the APmanager) and the two tunes I downloaded from Cobb and uploaded,  are gray'ed out.     What would cause this?   Dead ECU and it was replaced with an M/T one comes to mind...

If someone moved a M/T open source tune into the original ECU,  would that cause this? 

If so,  would re-mapping it with open source work, or would I be better to get a new ECU and start from there?

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Do you have multiple keys?  If not, chances are its the stock ECM.  V2s were rather unstable when Cobb moved to the V3. First reach out to Cobb tech support, if they offer any for a v2.  

It is possible someone opensource flashed a MT tune into the car.  I hate to think they did, but at this point I have now seen problems that previously did not exist.

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2 hours ago, m sprank said:

Do you have multiple keys?  If not, chances are its the stock ECM.  V2s were rather unstable when Cobb moved to the V3. First reach out to Cobb tech support, if they offer any for a v2.  

It is possible someone opensource flashed a MT tune into the car.  I hate to think they did, but at this point I have now seen problems that previously did not exist.

I do have a few keys for the car.  They were the 2x same keys I had when I sold the car years ago as far as I can tell + 1 additional.  The two same keys were a "Flip key" I modded up and the 2nd a mobile locksmith made in a parking lot (basic key without buttons) -  So they are kinda unique

Cobb support "Doubtful it's been open source tuned as that usually makes the Accessport not even recognize the ECU at all."

I was beat last night and didn't feel like shuffling the OBXT into the garage.   I'm gonna dig out the ECU  and get some numbers off of it next.  Is it under the passenger feet like it was on an 02 WRX? 
 

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Yes under passengers feet. 

The key has a chip.  The chip is read by the BIU which signals the ECM.  If you were to change the ECM with used, you would need to replace the BIU that came with the used ECM and the ignition tumbler and the key.  So you would have one key for the doors and a different key for the ignition.  Alarm function would be with the key that came with the ECM.  Good times. 

If this situation sounds familiar, you have a used ECM.  But the AT ECM communicates with the TCM that the MT does not have.  I have installed MT's in AT's cars but not AT's in MT's.  There was always some "trickery" involved.  So, I am assuming there would be some kind of "oddities" that came with the swap in order to make things work. 

 

Hope that was not too confusing. 

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40 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Yes under passengers feet. 

The key has a chip.  The chip is read by the BIU which signals the ECM.  If you were to change the ECM with used, you would need to replace the BIU that came with the used ECM and the ignition tumbler and the key.  So you would have one key for the doors and a different key for the ignition.  Alarm function would be with the key that came with the ECM.  Good times. 

Hope that was not too confusing. 

Not too confusing but I have many questions:

Couldn't you (Dealership?) program a replacement ECM to work with an original BIU?

Why would you ever need to replace the BIU?  Are their programmed as a pair?  I would expect the BIU to just send a signal to ECM wouldn't care what BIU it came from...  Though I guess that could simplify theft via BIU "simulator" 

If you replaced the ECM with a matching BIU,  why would you need to replace the ignition tumbler?  Couldn't you program the old key's-chip with the new BIU?  I've had keys programmed by Subaru numerous times.  Even had a key programmed by a mobile locksmith in the gas station parking lot.

Not sure if you remember my franken-DP post.   I sold the car 3? years ago and recently bought it back for cheap as it needed attention.  Not sure what had changed as I didn't buy back from the person I sold it too.    

At this point I think the next step will be to get the model of the ECM.. I'm sure there is a model number or part number that will correlate with A/T vs M/T. 

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A dealership could program a replacement ecm.  If they still had an SSMII (Subaru Select Monitor II) tool.  Many do not as the tools were retired.

Yes, ECM and BIU are paired. 

You could reprogram the key.  That would normally require a tow to the dealership. 

In my experience people looking to save money and perform the work themselves will buy an ECM, BIU and ignition with keys off eBay (or the likes) and just install them all and use two keys.  Had a few customers with dual keys.  Had one customer pay me to do it that way just to avoid the dealership. 

Unfortunately it appears like your "old" car was mistreated while not in your possession.  Considering the DP situation, it could be a used ECM. 

 

Yes, ECM part numbers are different:

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_29/engine_electronic/relay_and_sensor_engine/

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_30/engine_electronic/relay_and_sensor_engine/

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The VIN is stored in an ePROM chip on the ECU. You can physically move that chip to a replacement ECU or use a clamp and some software to clone the VIN codes from the chip to the replacement ECU (I've done the second one). It's generally better than trying to find a dealer that is willing or capable of reprogramming a replacement ECU.

 

 

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25 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Unfortunately it appears like your "old" car was mistreated while not in your possession. 

 

Without a doubt.  Dashboard is gouged/scraped up.   Both Front wheel bearings were shot.    It was cheap and I took a chance on it as a work pig (hopefully a fun work pig!).   I drove it 60 miles home with no issues, couple hardware store runs, and take it to the gym a few miles once a week..   I've just been going easy on the gogo pedal in the meantime as I work through it.

Thanks for the info on this....   Its peeked my curiosity of the IT Manager in me 

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Good news -  ECU is 22611AM98A   for an Auto..   

I'll double check with Cobb support too,  but it sounds like the AP won't work. Either it has issues or there is a wonky tune on it... Beauty of used...

M Sprank - I guess I should have listened to you and gone open source.  I'm guessing the best place to start is to download  stock tune, or maybe a Stage 1.   Just to confirm,  when you apply a tune it does an entire overwrite it does not do "adjustments"...    (Granted some of the overwrite is still data).    Looking to make sure I got a clean slate to work with. 

 

Bad news  -   Went to do my other front wheel bearing and one of the heads was rounded off already.   One bolt I got 50% and it rounded off and the other two need about 200 ugga uggas all the way out... yay? 

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For your Hub issue with the bolts, check out the DIY Forum for doing front HUBs.

You also may want to look at Harbor Fright for bolt removal tools.  There are sockets that you can hammer on the bolt head and finish removing it, also make sure  you spray the threads with a penetrating fluid, PB Blaster or more $$ order up some Aero-Kroil.  They say AFT and Acetone at 50/50 works well too.

 

Use anti-seize compound on the new bolts and all threads going together... on every bolt, nut you install on the car. Jug nuts too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Oh the bolts came out..  the actual Hub won't come out if the knuckle.  Its so rusty I just ordered a new knuckle too 

I use antisieze on any metal touching metal with bolt-in hubs. 

  That was just more of an annoyed rant.    

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Spray the hub with fluid, it may take over night. My left rear was a nightmare, but fluid finally worked. 

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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