FS - Location: (NC) - 2005 Legacy GT Wagon

[Chemicalogic]

Year, Make and Model: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon

Color: Atlantic Blue Pearl

Miles: 210700 chassis | 102000 engine

Transmission: 5EAT

Engine: EJ20Y

Title: Clean, in-hand

Lien: No liens

Location: Raleigh, NC

VIN: 4S3BP686654330399

Seller's email address: brand.anthony@gmail.com

Asking Price:  $4,800

 

Background Information

For sale is my 2005 Legacy GT non-limited Wagon (hot leather and sunroofs are for suckers  ) with 5EAT. I've owned this vehicle for the past 7 years. Always intended and used as a daily driver, every single functional part replaced on this vehicle through my ownership has been either OEM, or a proven name-brand manufacturer that's stood the test of time. Each OEM part was ordered through Hendrick Subaru located in Durham NC, receipts are available. This vehicle is OEM+, there are no high performance engine modifications and the car has only been daily driven and maintained to enhance reliability and drivability. Never beat on, tracked, raced etc. Every detail will be split into Good/Bad/Subjective categories below. Subjective just meaning some might think they are good and some bad, that's up to you. I'm in no rush to sell as I have other vehicles, so stuff in the 'BAD' category might slowly get resolved if nobody scoops it up.

I'm located in south Raleigh, NC (southwest of Garner). If you want to pop over for a test drive or to inspect in person, let me know and we'll arrange something.

 

GOOD:

• Maintenance:
  • Oil changes performed every 4k miles.
    • Always with full synthetic Castrol, new crush washer, and using the Tokyo Roki manufactured oil filters that are now carried by Mazda in the US (watch this if you don't know why)
  • Transmission, brake and diff fluids changed every 30k miles.
  • Air filters (cabin and intake) replaced every 15k miles.
  • AC checked annually and blows ice cold
  • Driver side blend door actuator replaced 2022
  • New OEM gas cap, fuel pump hanger and hanger gasket 2022
  • Head internals and seals inspected and serviced 2020 (see swap notes near bottom of post for more detail)
  • All brake calipers rebuilt in 2020
  • Brake discs and pads replaced in 2020
  • PS pump rebuilt in 2020 (you certainly can, thanks Buna-N and screw you Subaru bean counters for sourcing a 'non-serviceable' pump)
  • New Water Pump 2020
  • Timing Belt and ALL pulleys replaced 2020
    • Have an extra timing belt that will come with the car
    • All Japanese parts (Aisin kit), no cheap Chinesium or Gates garbage pulleys
  • New driveshaft installed 2020
  • Radiator/coolant hoses replaced 2019
  • PCV Valve replaced 2019
  • Entire PCV hose system replaced 2019
  • Passenger mix and blower door actuators replaced 2019
    • Infamous 'coffee percolator' dash noise problem 
  • New headlight housings 2018
  • No electrical gremlins, no CEL, no battery draining components
     
• Upgrades/Parts:
  • Custom Rays Volk Racing RE30
    • Forged 17'x8' +44 5x100 - perfect fitment for a squared setup with 5x100 hub Subarus. Will fit big brake kits
    • Matte Bronze with Brushed Bronze lip
    • Wearing Nitto Motivos 225 45x17, ~70% tread remaining
    • No rubbing on full lock or over bumps, setup is flush and maths r gud
    • Also have stock GT rims with Continental Extreme Contact DWS ~60% tread
    • Can negotiate lower price for the car if you do not want the RE30s, they are by far the most expensive part.
  • Koni Yellows
    • Installed 2020
    • Have one additional rear unit that will come with the car along with adjustment knobs
    • Car will not come with original shocks
  • H&R Sport Springs (Blues)
    • Installed 2020
    • Car will not come with original springs
  • 3/8 Saggy Butt Spacers
  • Borla Sport Catback Exhaust 
    • Car will not come with original exhaust. This sounds too good to remove, anyhow.
  • ProSport Boost Gauge
    • It's a boost gauge. Hidden in left half of upper console cubby (see in pics)
  • H&R 10mm Spacers and extended lug bolts on rear hub
    • Full set of 4 spacers and additional bolts, only rears are installed to flush wheels
  • JDM Double Din upgrade
    • ILX-W650 with Android Auto and Apple CarPlay via USB
    • i88 and 14pin Harness Adapters from SVX DC
  • Llumar IRX Series Premium Ultrviolet/Infrared blocking tint
    • Installed by Shade Custom Tint in Apex, NC
    • 40% all the way around
  • OEM Subaru Window Rainguards
  • OEM Subaru Roof Rack Crossbars and key (not pictured)
  • OEM Subaru Cargo Cover set
  • OEM Subaru Trunk Protector (seen a lot of use)
  • Have specialty Subaru tools that will come with the car
    • Company23 EJ valve spring compressor
    • Subaru cam sprocket wrench

BAD:

• I have not replaced suspension bushings.
  • They are still fine, but could do replacing in the next few years.
• Hairline crack along lower passenger side of windshield.
  • I bullseyed to stop it spreading but have not filled it. Not really necessary unless the car will move somewhere icy.
• Upholstering on upper left bolster of driver's seat is separated.
  • In the usual spot, but not super bad.
• Reverse lights can fog up in rainy weather.
  • Water can get in between the exterior weather strip and the plastic cladding over the light housing, which allows it to enter the liftgate. Needs new weather strip to fix.
• Front wiper fluid tubes have deteriorated, you'll want to replace all the tubing if you want to use the fluid system.
  • Rear still works fine but I rarely use it.
• Both rear door power lock actuators are weak.
• Liftgate supports starting to weaken and could use replaced.
• Fading trim on passenger side of roof rail and door window trim.
• Several small exterior flaws that are common on a high mileage vehicle, which you won't notice unless you look very closely, various small dimples and tiny scratches etc.
• Heat shield removed from part of factory exhaust manifold (pre-cat).
   

SUBJECTIVE:

• Parts
  • JDM EJ20Y Swap (2015)
    • Swap was performed by a shop in Maine by the prior owner at ~150k miles, presumably after the original EJ255 experienced catastrophic turbo failure via oil starvation, but I can't say for sure. The EJ20Y reportedly had 43k miles on it at the time of the swap. A new turbo was installed along with the engine. I bought the vehicle in 2015 with 152k miles on it after confirming the motor they swapped in had good compression.
    • Not running the JDM ECU, or an aftermarket tune.
    • Oil passages to exhaust cams are not welded closed.
    • JDM Exhaust Cam Position Sensor holes in the heads are plugged with aluminum IAG sensor delete plugs.
    • Engine is still Exhaust AVCS capable if you want to make use of it for a future build, just wasn't worth it for me.
    • In 2020 I removed the engine just before ~100k miles to inspect internal components for excessive wear or deterioration.
    • Several parts were replaced with new ones or serviced before the engine was reassembled and reinstalled.
      • Heads were machined and tanked by a local performance shop in downtown Raleigh - Boyette's.
      • Valve seals replaced, guides inspected.
      • Exhaust Valves replaced with new WRX valves (PN 13202AA401) and lapped to head after machining/cleaning.
      • Valve adjustment performed and buckets shuffled as needed to meet clearance spec.
      • Internal gaskets, o-rings and seals replaced.
      • All tertiary systems inspected before reinstallation, PS pump rebuilt and water pump replaced.
      • NGK Iridium Plugs gapped and installed.
      • All belts and pulleys replaced. New tensioner installed with timing belt.
      • Oil/Coolant flushed and replaced 100 miles after engine was put back in.
        • This engine inspection and reassembly was a passion project through the first months of 2020 to keep me sane through COVID. I have other forms of transportation, so the Subaru napped in the garage while I took my time doing things right. All torque sequences and specs were followed to a T. This engine is good for another 100k miles of boosting someone to work before it needs anything major.
  • SteamSpeed T3 Turbo Blanket
    • Car will not come with the original turbo heat shield.
  • Mishimoto Silicone Inlet Tube
    • Purchased from TheLed0314 on these very forums.
    • Rubber on OEM inlet tube is notoriously shit, this was intended as a no-nonsense replacement for it.
    • Needed to alter mounting solution for recirc system to fit the tube with OEM GT hardware.
  • Oldschool L7 grill
    • Bought the car with a trashed front grill, so I made some lemonade. Matte black with a JDM L7 badge. Might not be your cup of tea. It's garage-made, not really meant to impress.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 7, 2022 by Chemicalogic
Updated with new maintenance items - 12/6/2022

[bobglaub]

PM Sent

[Chemicalogic]

Couple of PM's but still available. Ordering some new OEM parts this weekend, will update the post as new parts arrive.

Reminder/TLDR: price drops to $3500 if you opt to take the OEM LGT wheels and don't want the RE30s.

[Chemicalogic]

Update: Some more OEM parts on the way. Fuel cap, fuel pump bracket, fuel pump tank seal, driver side air blend door actuator.

[2JZ_S14]

Is this an X or a Y? A little confused there, I realize the only difference is the turbo, but just curious. 

You said it got a new turbo, what's on it now? 

Is it the original transmission? Any issues? 

Any rust on fenders or underneath?

Are you negotiable or firm?

Maybe I missed it, any other pictures i.e. engine bay, passenger side?

Thanks!

Edited November 5, 2022 by 2JZ_S14

[Chemicalogic]

Hey 2JZ, see below:

• Is this an X or a Y? A little confused there, I realize the only difference is the turbo, but just curious. 
  • It's a Y, from a manual transmission JDM donor. The only other notable difference is the presence of some manual-specific hardware like the timing belt guide over the crankshaft timing gear.
• You said it got a new turbo, what's on it now? 
  • A new OEM turbo (VF40) was used. I'm not sure what the previous owner did with the twin-scroll turbo and other components that came with the long block, or if it even came with a turbo at all. What's in the car now is effectively what's in most JDM LGT EJ20 swaps: The original 255 intake/exhaust/turbo/cooling/harness/timing components/sensors etc connected to an EJ20 long block. You can drop in non-AVCS exhaust cams and get it tuned to better manage the higher compression and make more power, but for me this wasn't the route I had planned to go with the vehicle so hadn't messed with what's already in place.
• Is it the original transmission? Any issues? 
  • Yes, original transmission. Zero issues currently. It could use a valve cleaning or rebuild in the next 50k miles, but otherwise is just as bullet-proof as the next 5EAT when properly maintained.
• Any rust on fenders or underneath?
  • No rust on any body panels. Some normal surface rust on suspension components, and rust on the rear subframe. The vehicle was in Maine, then made it's way down to VA then NC so skipped most of the usual 'rust belt' punishment.
  • The most annoying rust issue I've come across was the radiator support bracket bolts (the ones up top) snapping. Unfortunately this is somewhat common on Subarus that lived up north. The space between the top of the bolt and the front crossmember creates a small valley that water gets trapped in. This isn't from my vehicle but you can see an example of it here. I haven't bothered drilling them out, I unironically consider zip ties to be an improvement to the original design.
• Are you negotiable or firm?
  • Willing to drop to $3,500 if you aren't interested in the RE30's. Else, pretty firm. I know what the car does/doesn't need and it's already factored into the price. It's not a perfect car, but it's been stupidly reliable as a daily and it costs pennies to insure and license, so I'm in no rush to sell.
• Maybe I missed it, any other pictures i.e. engine bay, passenger side?
  • I can take some pics of the passenger side and engine bay later today and post them up - should have them up later today or some time tomorrow.
    • UPDATE: Photos of engine bay and passenger side added to original post.

Edited November 7, 2022 by Chemicalogic

[2JZ_S14]

Awesome, thank you for the very detailed answers! I take it you would trust it to make it back to Minnesota no issue then? This seems like the perfect LGT for me; I work from home and it would live in heating parking so it would live an easy life. I literally just need it to be a grocery getter and something I can trust to take on a few hour road trip a handful of times a year and not leave me stranded. 

Edited November 7, 2022 by 2JZ_S14

[Chemicalogic]

Yes, that's essentially what it's used for now. I play disc golf tournaments across NC/SC/VA, and this is the vehicle I use to drive to them. It makes several 200-600 mile road trips per year and saves me from putting too many miles on my truck.

If you look up through the posts here, you'll notice I recently ordered some parts that I'll be putting on the car soon. One particular part might be an issue since you're up in Minnesota - the driver side blend door actuator. This was a common failure point on mid-2000's Subarus, the contact material on the drive gear inside the actuator that closes the actuator circuit and functions as a 'sensor' to control motor function for hot/cold air blending rubs away after some time and the actuator stops functioning.

The door is currently in the Cold position and the actuator just failed. Normally this wouldn't be a huge deal, pull the dash and pop the new actuator in, it's a day of work - but I was just informed by my local dealer that these actuators are on backorder from the manufacturer and Subaru doesn't know when they will get them in.

I can't guarantee the part will arrive any time soon, so you should go into this expecting that you won't have heat on the driver's side until Subaru gets a new shipment of these actuators. The rest of the parts will be installed this weekend.

[2JZ_S14]

Son of a. What is the part number on that? It seemed like my local dealerships had some in stock.

[Chemicalogic]

72131AG27A

[Chemicalogic]

Bump - The actuator part number Subaru has stored actually does not fit the car, and mulled this and other options over with my parts guy. However, the PCB wafer (the brains of the thing and part that usually fails) and all other parts except the final gear/arm are all the same. I swapped the new internals into the actuator and put everything back together - works like new. For anyone searching the forums in the future that comes across this post, just be careful pulling apart the old actuator housing. The clips on the rear of the housing with the final gear are not meant to be pried with force and you will need to re-use them.

Apparently the correct part number actuators that were plug-and-play (feels wrong to say that since the dash has to come out to replace this) might not be available... ever. I took photos but not really feeling like putting together a new post on the topic. I might if someone requests it, just ping me if you want more info.

 

• TLDR: Driver side blend door actuator is fixed/replaced so heat is back.
• Also new: Gas cap, fuel pump hangar assembly, fuel tank hangar gasket, complete battery tiedown assembly.
• Also yes, still for sale and this won't be posted elsewhere any time soon, it's currently an LGT.com exclusive listing.

[kyk007]

Is your Legacy wagon still available? If so, I'd be interested.

[Chemicalogic]

3 hours ago, kyk007 said:

Is your Legacy wagon still available? If so, I'd be interested.

Yes, still available at the moment. Have mostly been driving my truck in the winter so mileage hasn't changed much since the last post update.