Inj Dyn - Top Feed Conversion - what lines and fittings

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

I am getting a bunch of work done on my car this week and since the intake is off, my tuner recommends going ahead getting ID1050X injectors and a top feed rails.

I did not realize that this is not a drop in replacement for the stock parts that are already there, and some additional things would need to be ordered.

 

If anyone has done this, and still has a parts list of what is needed to do the conversion, do you care to share you list with me?

I'd like to go the cheaper route and just get the individual parts that are needed instead of getting a kit.

 

Help! Need to get this ironed out before Saturday when we put the car back together.

Thanks!

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

I see this kit:

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/sfc-flk-injector-dynamics-side-top-feed-conversion-line-kit

 

Does that look like everything I would need for the conversion?

[k00laid83]

I used IAG 07+ TGV deletes and fuel rails. I converted to top feed injectors. I'm unsure what year your car is. I just ended up making my own lines using vibrant fittings and lines. Below you'll find a link to my build and in the middle of the page you'll find a list of parts I used.

 

Link: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/05-lgt-5spd-ej257-type-ra-build-282192p14.html

[lagwagon]

That hose kit works with ID's side to top feed rails, which they sell bundled with injectors and the pins and housings for the plug conversion. If you don't want to unpin/cut the harness, you'll want to pick up separate plug and play harness converters. I've unpinned and pinned in the past and wish I had bought conversion harnesses so that's the way I would go in the future.

[DoctorDaveLGT]

Here's another option from Radium Eng.

 

http://www.radiumauto.com/Subaru-EJ-Fuel-Rail-Plumbing-Kits-P1767.aspx

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

That hose kit works with ID's side to top feed rails, which they sell bundled with injectors and the pins and housings for the plug conversion. If you don't want to unpin/cut the harness, you'll want to pick up separate plug and play harness converters. I've unpinned and pinned in the past and wish I had bought conversion harnesses so that's the way I would go in the future.

 

Damn. So do you have a link to the conversion kit?

Never even considered the wiring harness.

Shit. Shit. I'm running out of time.

Is it these?

https://www.iagperformance.com/injector-dynamics-denso-uscar-pnp-adapter-90-7/

Edited February 8, 2022 by Mr. Electric Wizard

[JoeInOregon]

Working on mine now

 

If you are not doing the work yourself, buy a kit with lines.

 

The cost to custom fab lines is not much less just in parts and by the time you pay a mechanic ... forget it.

 

Your other option is swapping out OEM parts that are top feed.

 

To make matters worse the kits are not as readily available for legacy's.

 

In your situation basically ask your tunner what parts he wants to use to get it done as cheap as possible, then open your wallet

 

 

 

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[lagwagon]

Here is the injector/rail bundle:

 

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-injectors/1050-18-01-48-14-4-injector-dynamics-id1050x-fuel-injectors-w-top-feed-fuel-rails

 

I don't know what style injector plug those injectors are, nor what the stock ones are so can't help on that side of things, but the kit comes with the pins and housings if you want to do the work yourself. Maybe contact ID to see if they can tell you the correct plugs if nobody answers here.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Here is the injector/rail bundle:

 

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-injectors/1050-18-01-48-14-4-injector-dynamics-id1050x-fuel-injectors-w-top-feed-fuel-rails

 

I don't know what style injector plug those injectors are, nor what the stock ones are so can't help on that side of things, but the kit comes with the pins and housings if you want to do the work yourself. Maybe contact ID to see if they can tell you the correct plugs if nobody answers here.

 

Okay, I think that's what we have ordered (the tuner ordered rather).

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Working on mine now

 

If you are not doing the work yourself, buy a kit with lines.

 

The cost to custom fab lines is not much less just in parts and by the time you pay a mechanic ... forget it.

 

Your other option is swapping out OEM parts that are top feed.

 

To make matters worse the kits are not as readily available for legacy's.

 

In your situation basically ask your tunner what parts he wants to use to get it done as cheap as possible, then open your wallet

 

Yep, got it. We ordered the injectors, rails, and lines directly from ID, so hopefully we're good. They should be arriving tomorrow, and I'll have him check the injector plugs to see if they work with the 2006 OBXT harness. If not, I'll have him order the conversion harness parts.

Thanks!

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

YESS!! The tuner ordered the injectors from Cobb and Cobb actually put the plug and play adapters in the kit!

Should be good to go now..

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Working on mine now

 

If you are not doing the work yourself, buy a kit with lines.

 

The cost to custom fab lines is not much less just in parts and by the time you pay a mechanic ... forget it.

 

Your other option is swapping out OEM parts that are top feed.

 

To make matters worse the kits are not as readily available for legacy's.

 

In your situation basically ask your tunner what parts he wants to use to get it done as cheap as possible, then open your wallet

 

 

 

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

Did you finish your conversion?

I'm thinking about tackling this myself at some point. Are you pulling your intake manifold and removing the stock metal fuel lines?

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

One thing I dint get about the line kit I bought is ‘the relocating the regulator to the drivers side away from the turbo’ part. The kit is for an STI too but is the regulator on the passenger side for an STI? Our Legacy GT’s have it on the drivers side already right, so no relocation needed?

 

The regulator is what that top fuel line is connected to right?

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

And for the splicing into the factory fuel supply and return, do I just cut the stock rubber line and contact it to the barb I show below? No more tie strap into the connector to release the factory hoses?

[JoeInOregon]

Did you finish your conversion?

 

I'm thinking about tackling this myself at some point. Are you pulling your intake manifold and removing the stock metal fuel lines?

I did finish it, completely removed metal lines and OEM fpr, so much cleaner. All new braided AN lines and fittings

 

I did completely remove my intake , based on the shape all my gaskets and vacuum line where in will say it's foolish to not pull it and replace everything.

 

Plan on replacing all your vacuum lines in the area all gaskets , and probably breaking a nipple on that peice of shit , heat baked plastic manifold

 

My build would be done if it wasn't for the manifold, I'm going to to an STI conversion because I can't get myself to buy a replacement.

 

If you want to a avoid any damage to the manifold and else where get everything nice and hot with a hair dryer, I got lazy on one hose and it's how ended up in this spot.

 

Added bonus without OEM lines to deal with the manifold can be installed or uninstalled in two pieces.

 

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[Mr. Electric Wizard]

What size vacuum line did you use? do you remember?

I think I need some vacuum line and another line that goes to the purge valve.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Can I use the stock fuel pressure regulator too?

And the dampers on a stock 2006 are on the old fuel rail. I'll need an aftermarket pulse damper right?

For your fpr upgrade, did you go with an Aeromotive?

Edited April 6, 2022 by Mr. Electric Wizard

[JoeInOregon]

Can I use the stock fuel pressure regulator too?

And the dampers on a stock 2006 are on the old fuel rail. I'll need an aftermarket pulse damper right?

For your fpr upgrade, did you go with an Aeromotive?

It depends on the kit you bought some are from stock fpr, some for aremotive.

 

I went with radium engineering.

 

There is some basic pics of my setup ony build thread, I made all custom lines.

 

Most people would suggest you keep or substitute the dampers specially with stock fpr

 

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[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Thanks!

Here's the instructions for my kit (stock FPR):

http://help.t1racedevelopment.com/support/solutions/articles/4000017345-04-06-subaru-sti-side-feed-to-top-feed-conversion-line-kit

 

This fuel line kit is designed to be used with the rails in series and with the stock fuel pressure regulator. Running the rails in series uses less parts and ensures no vapor pockets form in the lines and rails.

 

 

The assembly is very easy. You’ll install the (4) 6AN to 6AN-ORB adaptors in the ends of the fuel rails. The end with the radius and o-ring screws into the rails. Use a small amount of lube on the o-rings before installation.

 

 

The 12” long line will connect from the rear of the driver’s side rail to the OEM 5/16” supply line. One of the 5/16 barb adaptors will go at the other end of this AN line, then you’ll connect this barb to the OEM barb with the 5/16” fuel injection hose and hose clamps.

 

 

One of the long lines goes from the front of the driver’s side rail to the front of the passenger side rail. The other long line goes from the rear of the pass side rail over toward the driver side rail. The other barb adaptor will go on the end of this line, and the 5/16” fuel injection hose will go from there to the inlet barb of the fuel pressure regulator, and secure with hose clamps. The fuel pressure regulator should be relocated to the driver’s side of the car, away from the heat of the turbocharger. You can mount it to one of the bolts on the intake manifold as you find fits with your intercooler design. The amount of hose provided is enough to give lots of flexibility in choosing an FPR location.

 

Again, the strange wording is the relocation of the stock FPR.

A Legacy GT has it on the driver's side away from the turbo already, unless I'm missing something. Any recommendations for dampers in this situation?

The stock ones are the little white dome things between the stock injectors, correct?

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Okay it looks like the fuel damper is part of the cluster on the right side of the engine bay that includes the stock FPR. So this install might be easier than I was thinking.

[Infosecdad]

There are three dampers on our stock 05-06, one is by the FPR by the strut mount, the other two are on each rail between the injectors. Though, for the most part I think the stock dampers are fine, unless the diaphragm is damaged. I replaced all my dampers with radium dampers to see if there was a noticeable difference and my conclusion was not really.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

For a top feed conversion, I've read that it's recommended to use the stock (or replacement) fuel dampers.

On this picture, is the fuel damper #3 (on the cluster of fpr) or is #1 and #2 dampers as well? Thank you cor clearing this up for me.

 

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

There are three dampers on our stock 05-06, one is by the FPR by the strut mount, the other two are on each rail between the injectors. Though, for the most part I think the stock dampers are fine, unless the diaphragm is damaged. I replaced all my dampers with radium dampers to see if there was a noticeable difference and my conclusion was not really.

 

Okay thanks!

So the two white dome things next to the stock injectors ARE dampers.

How would these be incorporated into a top feed fuel rail? I suppose they can just stay connected where they are and should fit under the new top feed rails.

I'm probably over thinking this.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

I just went out and looked on the car and the stock dampers (#1 and #2 on the drawing above) are bolted to the top of the stock side feed fuel rail.

I have Cobb top feed rails and there is no hole for the stock dampers.

 

Can the #1/#2 stock dampers be somehow added to this new top feed conversion, or am I going to have to get aftermarket dampers?

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[Mr. Electric Wizard]

I cannot find any info at all about dampers that use the stock FPR. I guess I should assume that they just aren’t needed. If the car bucks then I guess I can figure out how to add some later.