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My 2005 Legacy GT Build/Experience


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Hello,

 

Thank you for checking out my post. I'm a new member of the forum and also a new member of the Subaru community. I recently purchased my Legacy this past October. It had 120K miles with the 5-speed manual, with a few mods already installed for only $2,500.

 

It came with:

Cobb AP,

Vf52 turbo/ new core,

Koyorad aluminum radiator,

170° thermostat,

TIAL 38mm external wastegate,

Perrin Recirculating BOV,

Perrin top mount intercooler,

Unequal length headers,

CNT Racing Downpipe,

3" Catback exhaust,

CNT Uppipe,

Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS,

Hollowed out TGVs,

Cobb SF intake with Perrin inlet,

and BC coil overs.

 

However, the reason it was so cheap, was because it smoked really bad, and wouldn't idle without you feathering the throttle. After arriving and examining it, I noticed that it had the trademark Subaru head gasket problems as well. The block was coated, and after I heard it idle, I believed it had Ringland failure. However, I brought a truck and trailer, so it wasn't a problem. I loaded it up and drove it back home.

 

I purchased this vehicle with the intent of rebuilding, so I started to place orders for new parts. I settled with this as the start to my build:

 

Manley forged pistons and Rods,

Subaru OEM forged and nitrated crank,

ACL Race bearings

GSC Power-Division Stage 3 Billet cams

All GSC valve-terrain,

DeatschWerks 1000cc Injectors,

Subaru STI 11MM Oil pump,

All new gaskets and seals,

AISIN timing belt kit,

New Plugs and Coilpacks,

Stage 2 clutch kit.

 

There are a few things I'm going to buy, but I'm waiting till it's warmer (and my tax check :lol:). Anyways, I will be purchasing an FP blue turbo, new IAG competition engine and trans mounts, a 340LPH fuel pump, Kein trans blast plates, an AOS kit, new shifter bushings, A KillerB oil pickup combo, and a cylinder 4 cooling mod.

 

After I ordered all these items, I found the time to actually get into the vehicle, and the more I made it into the motor, the more I realized something was wrong. It turns out that whoever did service on the motor last hadn't torqued the heads down to spec, and they had been lifting. This is why there was so much oil on the motor, and why it ran like s*it. The engine looked almost new, and when I asked the previous owner, he said he had just had it rebuilt not too long ago, and when it started having problems, he just wanted it gone. I had already settled on upgrading, so I wasn't going to change anything, but I could've had a running vehicle with almost a brand new motor for $2,500.

 

Anyways, I'm currently just waiting for it to warm up outside, because I live in Indiana, and we are currently suffering from a severe winter storm. Hopefully, the car will be fully completed in the next 3 months, as I've been excited for a while to see how it turns out. I do have several long-term plans for the vehicle such as a complete suspension rebuild and a 6-speed swap. Hopefully, the 5 speed can hold on for just a year till I can find the perfect trans.

 

I will try to post any updates as I go along, but I'd love to hear any feedback that this community might have. If you have any questions feel free to ask!

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I would go with the softest bushings that IAG offers. I run the competition and they are too stiff. The street bushing will be plenty.
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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No, to the Spec 2 clutch, you will smoke that in little time. My Spec 2 clutch only lasted 50,000 miles. Do a Spec 2+ or better. I also have the Spec LWFW with replaceable fiction surface.

 

Check out my click here link to see what I did.

 

IMO don't do the AOS. My wagon has one, I will not do one on my Spec B. They will collect moisture in the cold weather.

 

 

I don't see ARP head studs on your list.

 

Who is your Tuner ? I use tuningalliance@gmail.com He is one of the best with these cars.

 

 

Why do you think you need forged parts ? what are your HP goals ?

 

I suggest you talk to a Tuner before you spend that kind of money. A new ej257 short block will hold good power and can last a long time. I have over 146,000 miles on mine.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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No, to the Spec 2 clutch, you will smoke that in little time. My Spec 2 clutch only lasted 50,000 miles. Do a Spec 2+ or better. I also have the Spec LWFW with replaceable fiction surface.

 

Check out my click here link to see what I did.

 

IMO don't do the AOS. My wagon has one, I will not do one on my Spec B. They will collect moisture in the cold weather.

 

 

I don't see ARP head studs on your list.

 

Who is your Tuner ? I use tuningalliance@gmail.com He is one of the best with these cars.

 

 

Why do you think you need forged parts ? what are your HP goals ?

 

I suggest you talk to a Tuner before you spend that kind of money. A new ej257 short block will hold good power and can last a long time. I have over 146,000 miles on mine.

1) I'm only planning on sticking with the stage two clutch for probably less than a year. If it goes before then, I'll see if I can acquire the six-speed that I want.

 

2) I heard that the catch can was more susceptible to gathering moisture compared to the AOS. I'll have to look into it more.

 

3) I did forget to mention the ARP studs, but I do have a set already.

 

4) I actually don't have a tuner. I haven't had time to really look around for one yet, as I'm new to the Subaru community, and to my knowledge, there aren't many around in Indiana. I'll reach out to your contact and see what he thinks.

 

5) Eventually, the plan is to be around 500 WHP on E85, however, things are always subject to change. I bought forged parts because I wanted an engine that could hold high amounts of boost, while still being semi-reliable.

 

6) It's a little too late for that because as I stated, I already purchased a huge majority of what I listed. Plus, I bought it months ago so I can't just return it. I'm stuck with what I have.

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Nice find and cool project. How many miles since the rebuild? Any damage to the block or heads due to exhaust gases escaping and eroding the edges?

I actually haven't put any miles on it yet. Waiting to grab everything I have listed before throwing it together. Luckily the block and the heads were fine. It couldn't have been run long like that, and I certainly didn't drive it. We will see how it turns out once it's all together. Hopefully, we don't run into any unforeseen problems.

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500 WHP is doable, but I would not go that direction. it's very hard to get 500 on these car. It can be done but that money is not what I want to spend. I spent a good amount on my 06 build. Also PLEASE get the STI 6 speed with DCCD. Do it right. I am not hating on people getting other 6 speed swaps but there is a reason why I will be going STI everything. It will hold that power you want. Just from what you got with the car and what your adding you will be at 375 tops. You need much more to go 500. Good to see people are building these gems.
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  • 5 months later...

After months of waiting, I've finally got around to starting to build my motor. It's been a long time coming, but it's finally happening. I'm stoked! Between the last few things I needed, and working all the time, I kept putting it off, but no more! As you can see by the photos, the motor is already assembled, we are adding the accessories now. Hopefully we can have it fully completed in the next few weeks!

 

A few things also changed in the build. I ended up going with an FP Red and picked up a clutch that'll actually hold up to the power we are going to be putting down. The only thing left to figure out is the tune. I don't intend on putting cats and TGV's back on, so the cobb AP that came with the vehicle is worthless to me. I've been trying to set something up with DKGoodrich in Kentucky to get an opensource dyno tune.

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