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Boost problems, car almost dies.


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So I am having a problem where when entering boost the car flutter and jerks a bit, I also haven’t been able to bridge above 12 psi in 3rd. I pulled the TMIC, checked vac lines, cleaned air filter, and checked my turbo. Now before I took everything off the car would almost die when you hit the clutch, after I took everything off and reconnected it it will actually stall out when pushing in the clutch. I’m also having a separate issue where after I pulled the airbox and such my power steering reservoir overflows and I have 0 power steering response. (included this just in case) Anybody have any ideas?
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Yeah I’ve heard of the infamous input gasket that fails, I went and bought a new one, installing tomorrow. I could see it was leaking ps fluid from that area, I’m just hoping the pump didn’t die as well, I’ll also pressurize the system tomorrow and see what’s up, I already bought an ewg uppipe with a block off plate as well just in case it’s that upper cat clogging. If it’s not that Im thinking the wastegate but not sure how to test that.
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Checking for boost leaks: Loosen the clamps on the intake hose just after the air box/MAF. Rotate it up and off the air box, find a spray bottle or cork of similar size and stuff the air hose on the air box end, tighten both clamps. Pull the vacuum line of your BPV and blow air in (use your lungs....it's plenty and won't do damage). You can get a decent amount of pressure, block it off with your finger or shove a bolt in it and spray connections with soap and water, checking for bubbles. Letting your finger off after a bit should allow some of the air to escape back out if you don't have leaks.

 

This is per a reputable tuner and has worked for me.....

 

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For the power steering try changing the O ring on top, and then push the air out the system by having someone poor in fluid while the other turns the steering wheel all way in both directions. You might have a leak which has pushed air into system.

 

Also check the notorious blue T behind the manifold , that always blows off if you don't have it snugged on securely.

 

I would get rid of the catted uppipe regardless, you don't want crap going into your turbo, then its lights out turbo and engine.

 

If your rocking 2005 oem everything, it could be a ton of things, intake manifold, turbo inlet, intercooler, throttlebody gasket.... the list goes on! Pressure test the system so your not aiming in the dark! I just went through this nightmare!

 

I use a regular 3" pvc cap with a band clamp, less than 5 bucks at home depot or any hardware store. Cap off the turbo inlet, then use the line vacuum line from the bypass valve or something easy to get to, I use the vacuum line going to ebcs.

 

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Edited by Tehnation
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Found it. TMIC pooped, now I want some opinions. I’ve planned to go fmic for awhile now, I’ve been gathering parts in order to install all at once and get one tune. I already have my vf52, I’ve already ordered my ewg uppipe. The total mods I wanted to gather was fuel pump/injectors, fmic, ewg, headers, and cold air intake. My problem now being is do I buy and install the fmic now with whatever else I have and get a tune, or do I fork over the $100 for a used top mount to keep me going until I get the full lot together. A local tune would run me about $400. Another question being is I’ve heard people run 20 something psi on vf52 and stock fueling, is it really safe for me to do so?
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I think most people here will say a front mount is not worth it for something like a vf52.

 

My current build a 16g and went with a TMIC and for what I spent I could have got the cts front mount.

 

After my last build a 1.8t Audi with a front set up I was happy to be able to get by without all that charge piping.

 

It's just a hassle.

 

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FMIC holds a special place in my heart on Subarus. I think it’s like a defiance from subaru’s bad design, I’ve also seen people report something like 30hp on the gains. My choices are either a nice front mount setup for like $600 or a grimmspeed top mount for $1k+. It’s also just appealing in the looks department as I hate how the top mount looks and the hassle of having to pull it off all the time to check mundane things. I have no problems deleting my washer fluid or fogs.
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I also shop very budget minded, not in terms of cheap parts, but I buy a lot of stuff used. Got my vf52 with a drilled bolt on the intercooler connection, no shaft play for $130. Got my ewg pipe used for $100. So I like the benefits and cost to power of a front mount, I planning to either buy a nice kit, or buy just the piping off the cxracing kit and get a different intercooler. I forgot who it was that made fmic for our cars awhile back but I wish he was still in business.
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A FMIC will delay your boost response just a bit. If you don't care and just want outright more power, then a FMIC is fine if you later plan to put a larger turbo in, but it's wasted on a VF52. Small turbo with more lag due to a FMIC isn't a good time.

 

Also you almost certainly have a big vacuum leak. A smoke tester is best for this and I'd recommend having a performance shop test for you instead of blowing money on replacing every gasket.

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A FMIC will delay your boost response just a bit. If you don't care and just want outright more power, then a FMIC is fine if you later plan to put a larger turbo in, but it's wasted on a VF52. Small turbo with more lag due to a FMIC isn't a good time.

 

Also you almost certainly have a big vacuum leak. A smoke tester is best for this and I'd recommend having a performance shop test for you instead of blowing money on replacing every gasket.

 

Yeah the vac leak was the stock top mount, and in the previous post the gasket was referring to the oring that was giving me troubles with my power steering. I plan to go with an fp green/meth injection quite some time down the line after I’ve saved to get some forged internals. I just want something to tame my power fit until then. Is there anyway to temporarily repair the top mount?

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Yeah the vac leak was the stock top mount, and in the previous post the gasket was referring to the oring that was giving me troubles with my power steering. I plan to go with an fp green/meth injection quite some time down the line after I’ve saved to get some forged internals. I just want something to tame my power fit until then. Is there anyway to temporarily repair the top mount?
JB weld and metal straps have been used and offered in " bullet proof" kits to Jeep this from happening.

 

Honest could probably just buy a used one for less.

 

There is some very cheap perin knock off top mounts on the bay for like 200.

 

600 is a deal for a front mount, it seems like you have other reasons for that choice as well and get that, I just hated dealing with front mount, the cx racing piping has some issues check out the reviews. I also like the look of the top mount so it's a no brainer for me.

 

I saw a grim speed go for 650 used on here not long ago.

 

I'm not one to tell people that to do but other than the looks you should be able to end up with a higher quality top mount and less money than with a front

 

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Yeah I found a rev9 one for the time being for $150 used, apparently they got their intercoolers the same place perrin used to? Idk but it has some good reviews up on here, but yea the cxracing piping mainly has issues regarding the battery and fogs, but I’ve wanting a trunk mount battery for forever anyway, and I’ve never even found the fogs useful so I’ll probably install some other type of light system. I’m mainly going for a more minimalist engine bay look and the front mount achieves that.
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Bulletproof is only good till 17 psi? Stage 2 is right below that, and my buddies have been running stage 2 on their stockers for a few years with no issues, one of em is tuned up to 19.5 psi on a vf52 stock intercooler so I’m surprised the bulletproof is only advertised to 17; I’m sure it’d be able to reliably run more than that.
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The previous owner of my car bulletproofed the intercooler and it started to leak for him at 17 PSI, one PSI higher than he had it set prior with the aging stock high-mileage engine. Perrin intercooler went on, no more issues. It was under his ownership, so I can’t speak to if the job was done properly, but a beefed-up intercooler is a godsend until you get to FMIC territory, so it’s worth it to me.
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