Failed leakdown test cyl #4. Need help identifying failure

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I called iag performance. They guy there said that my engine (2010) is a cross or pre fa20. That no other engine will work for several reasons. Mentioned that my turbo wouldnt work. (Mines mounted in the bottom) I trust him. Alot of the info I find online isn't specific to the 2010 ej255. Most of its 4th Gen info. So, unless anyone else has 2 cents, looks like I'm back to the drawing board. I may be better off liken the above poster said and just out in a 5th Gen ej255 and not mess with the ej257. I know several of you have given advice and I need to reread the thread to make sure I haven't forgotten something someone has said.

 

Also, I'm pretty sure I mentioned it above. But, when I decided to look into the block from the oil pan. The oil had some glitter to it. Very faint. Anyway for me to make certain that there is metal in it? I know that will require changing out more parts. And Id rather not if I don't have to. I know I can send it off for analysis, but the oil I drained is in a pan that was already dirty. So I don't want a bad sample. There is maybe a couple of ounces in the block still but I'm sure they require more than that.

[dgoodhue]

Is the ej257 or ra block not worth it for the better parts?

 

I looked at the interchange of parts for STI, not the RA short block. The crank was the same, the rods in the STI changed in the later ones, but the 5th Gen used the earlier EJ257 rods which is also share with most if not all the rest of the EJ255 motors.

 

The EJ255 in the 5th Gen is really a cross between the the EJ255 and EJ257 motors with smaller exhaust cams and the pre FA20 low mount turbo setup.

 

Yes most site ignore the 5th Gen or assume they are the same. I went to a place where they were parting out a 2010 GT. The engine had been taken and the transmission was laying on the ground. One of the E25 heads (5th Gen head) was on the ground. I made a comment to the seller about the head on the ground. He said something along the lines of that he bought the car for the transmission and didn't realize about the cable mounted shifter. He sold the engine to friend and did realize that this EJ255 was so different.

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I looked at the interchange of parts for STI, not the RA short block. The crank was the same, the rods in the STI changed in the later ones, but the 5th Gen used the earlier EJ257 rods which is also share with most if not all the rest of the EJ255 motors.

 

The EJ255 in the 5th Gen is really a cross between the the EJ255 and EJ257 motors with smaller exhaust cams and the pre FA20 low mount turbo setup.

 

Yes most site ignore the 5th Gen or assume they are the same. I went to a place where they were parting out a 2010 GT. The engine had been taken and the transmission was laying on the ground. One of the E25 heads (5th Gen head) was on the ground. I made a comment to the seller about the head on the ground. He said something along the lines of that he bought the car for the transmission and didn't realize about the cable mounted shifter. He sold the engine to friend and did realize that this EJ255 was so different.

 

 

So what am looking at replacing since I found metal in the oil? I want to stress this is very, very fine pieces. But I shouldn't see any, right? I explained what I found to the guy at iag and he said it would be $7k in parts to replace what's necessary for a spun bearing (if that's where it came from) now this includes a stage 2 short block (~$3600) He said thats the only one he sells. The other $3400 would be parts contaminated from metal. That sounds excessive. So I'm trying to find a list of what components would need changed. I can go with a oem 2010 ej255 shortblock ($2k), oil cooler ($200), turbo?, oil pump what else am I missing?

[whitexc]

Send the heads out and depending on what they find you may get away with $600 but could be into $1000 if they need valves, etc. Head studs. The turbo should be inspected and rebuilt or upgraded if you are talking stage 2. Up pipe, downpipe, fuel pump at a minimum but fuel system if you are after power, timing kit, water pump, oil pump, oil cooler, seals, gaskets and fluids, tune and associated costs with that....There are so many "while you are in there" parts that add up quick.

 

I can say that 7k isn't far off as I am wrapping up a very similar build. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[silverton]

Send an oil sample to black stone. they'll let you know how much and what kind of metal is in it, if you're able to take a 'clean' sample any way. already drained oil sitting for days could have other stuff settle in to it. Aside from that, removing the oil pan and and baffle plate should give you a good idea of how much and how big the chunks are.

 

Short block

oil pickup tube can be cleaned but get a killer b

Cam gears (avcs)

oil control valves

oil control valve screens, replace or just remove, there's merit to both methods

take the plate off the backside of the OCV just to be sure

oil cooler if applicable

oil pump

heads need to be cleaned

the 4 camshaft avcs oiling holes douched

all the hard lines that feed oil to turbo/oil control valves need to be douched

aaannndddd I usually run some brake clean through the turbo til it stops coming out brown

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Aside from that, removing the oil pan and and baffle plate should give you a good idea of how much and how big the chunks are

 

Here's a pic similar to the size I'm seeing, the specks at the bottom of the finger. And a pic I took looking in the block, you can see a few speaks floating. And it's very few, I've seen maybe 25 pieces total? It is very, very fine and I haven't seen anything bigger. I also seen a silver tinge to the oil in a kind of swirl. I've tried to take pics but cannot get anything that really represents what I've seen.

[xt2005bonbon]

I vote for an oil sample. Fairly cheap to do. It will also give you extra time to carefully prepare. And maybe everything is fine after all?