pdXammo Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Is there an actual difference in a JDM Al arm? Are the JDM Brembo any different or do those arms just come with an adapter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 i have a set if you want to see them. came off a s402 rear arms have an extra bolt. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdXammo Posted February 23, 2021 Author Share Posted February 23, 2021 i have a set if you want to see them. came off a s402 rear arms have an extra bolt. I would. Whats the bolt for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 I would. Whats the bolt for? idk. didn't match anything on the wagon. I was tempted to paint the bolt gold so everyone would know it was valuable Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arlia101 Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 This seems like a perfect thread to hijack, since I've just gone cross-eyed reading dozens of posts while trying to find the right search keywords for this. Thanks, @pdXammo ;-) Anyone know what the difference is between the *rest* of the spec-B rear arms, besides the aluminum rear trailing arms (RTAs)? (well, I know the uppers are also aluminum). AFAIK, some of the arms and bushings are interchangeable, while others call out as specific spec.B parts. If I change the RTA, can I keep all the others stock, or will it eff up the geometry? Are they different length? Hollow? Secretly blessed by the Illuminati? They're nice and cheap on eBay these days, and I'm planning to get either (1) just the trailing arms or, (2) get a "whole set" like below. Pictured and applications, best as I can tell: "Support brace" (bent-elbow, top-left, looks like hollow steel, alternate P/N for spec.B ) Lower-front lateral link (left, hollow steel, spec.B alt P/N ) LFLL bushings (inboard is same for all models; outboard at RTA, spec.B alt P/N ) Lower-rear lateral link aka "toe link" (steel, same for all) LRLL bushing (inboard only, same for all) Rear trailing arm proper, with RTA forward bracket and bushing (bracket and bushing alt spec.B P/N, of course) Upper lateral link (right, aluminum. spec.B alt P/N) ULL bushings (inboard same-for-all, outboard spec.B alt P/N) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 that looks like the rear set, minus the diff carrier. most ppl get the whiteline kta124 and the other whiteline kit Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arlia101 Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 (edited) I've occasionally seen that diff support in sets, a few solo, too. Might not get it this time, but it'd be nice to replace another rusty part down there =D I've also seen the diff carrier in aluminum for the 08-14 STI. It doesn't interchange with the BL/BP, does it? It was *really* cheap... Do you know how the spec.B control arms are different from the rest? I guess the Whiteline/adjustable ones *would* solve any unknown length question: just set them as needed to align... Edited March 5, 2021 by arlia101 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 (edited) the difference was weight and metal type. the jdm pieces have an extra hole (beside wheel bearing mount) there's a bit more rest than typical jdm also if doing the rear suspension, it's only a little more work to do the diff support and all the bushings . especially if you a north easter Edited March 5, 2021 by boxkita Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arlia101 Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 I really just want to do new shocks, and new trailing arm bushings. The rest is opportunity -- but thinking as long as one side of a control arm comes off, easy enough to put another (with new bushings) right back in. Yep, northeast car. At some point I'd like to attack the whole diff subframe, but was thinking of just the diff bushing inserts for now. Let me look at how one replaces the carrier... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 when it's already apart, it's easy. as soon as you put it together, you'll get an alignment and find there's no enough adjustments. then you'll be putting in the whiteline kit. just get it over with. you'll be much happier Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arlia101 Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 That's something worth thinking remembering as I cost this out, thanks. (where's our smiley for "vacuum out my wallet"?!) And, hooray, finally found confirmation that the 2008-14 STI aluminum diff support should fit the 5EAT rear end -- though not necessarily the other way around. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-diff-bracket-support-compatibility-262056.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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