arlia101

This is "fleet average" 40mpg, at least according to the NHTSA: average across all models, not requiring each individual model to reach this. So in the past automakers have made low-volume high-mpg models to help with this, right? Badge-engineering, or making another variation or two of the hybrid and electric models to pad the lineup. Kind of hurts Subaru now that they broke the WRX out as a different model vs a trim of the Impreza, too, in this case. Maybe licensing Edit: oh wait, the NHTSA said 49mpg? Wow, yeah, no way LOL. 40.... small chance. Yeah, either pushbacks, penalties, or (maybe?) kei car imports as fluff!

How did the install go? What other rear suspension bits have you replaced -- espc. the upper and lower control arms -- or is it all still stock?

That's something worth thinking remembering as I cost this out, thanks. (where's our smiley for "vacuum out my wallet"?!) And, hooray, finally found confirmation that the 2008-14 STI aluminum diff support should fit the 5EAT rear end -- though not necessarily the other way around. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-diff-bracket-support-compatibility-262056.html

I really just want to do new shocks, and new trailing arm bushings. The rest is opportunity -- but thinking as long as one side of a control arm comes off, easy enough to put another (with new bushings) right back in. Yep, northeast car. At some point I'd like to attack the whole diff subframe, but was thinking of just the diff bushing inserts for now. Let me look at how one replaces the carrier...

I've occasionally seen that diff support in sets, a few solo, too. Might not get it this time, but it'd be nice to replace another rusty part down there =D I've also seen the diff carrier in aluminum for the 08-14 STI. It doesn't interchange with the BL/BP, does it? It was *really* cheap... Do you know how the spec.B control arms are different from the rest? I guess the Whiteline/adjustable ones *would* solve any unknown length question: just set them as needed to align...

This seems like a perfect thread to hijack, since I've just gone cross-eyed reading dozens of posts while trying to find the right search keywords for this. Thanks, @pdXammo ;-) Anyone know what the difference is between the *rest* of the spec-B rear arms, besides the aluminum rear trailing arms (RTAs)? (well, I know the uppers are also aluminum). AFAIK, some of the arms and bushings are interchangeable, while others call out as specific spec.B parts. If I change the RTA, can I keep all the others stock, or will it eff up the geometry? Are they different length? Hollow? Secretly blessed by the Illuminati? They're nice and cheap on eBay these days, and I'm planning to get either (1) just the trailing arms or, (2) get a "whole set" like below. Pictured and applications, best as I can tell: "Support brace" (bent-elbow, top-left, looks like hollow steel, alternate P/N for spec.B ) Lower-front lateral link (left, hollow steel, spec.B alt P/N ) LFLL bushings (inboard is same for all models; outboard at RTA, spec.B alt P/N ) Lower-rear lateral link aka "toe link" (steel, same for all) LRLL bushing (inboard only, same for all) Rear trailing arm proper, with RTA forward bracket and bushing (bracket and bushing alt spec.B P/N, of course) Upper lateral link (right, aluminum. spec.B alt P/N) ULL bushings (inboard same-for-all, outboard spec.B alt P/N)

I've really got to clear the orange out of my own headlights. Nice inspiration build thread here! Do you have an adhesive preference for the headliner fabric? I've stitched mine on with heavy thread, having known lots of people who tried spray-adhesive only to have it fall down again months later. And, is this the same pre + paint process for the interior trim you used on the sedan (and maybe WRX, too?) Guessing it holds up pretty well to heavy use, looking forward to try it myself someday! Any topcoat after the color, to protect it? Or is all the magic in the prep? Thanks!

Wow, John -- this certainly puts all our own little plans in perspective XD Great to see there'll be at least one rust-free Legacy up in the Northeast -- and with over 200k miles, amazing! To everyone else who's lamenting the decline of forums like this in preference for Instagram and Facebook and junk like that... hear, hear! I hate having to wade through Facebook posts for legit info... c'mon, no topical threads? search features? Hope I keep finding y'all here until after the last car rusts away @BagRidersJohn Tangential question -- for a job at work, I've been looking up fixes for rusty galvanized steel / galvalume. I see you've used both POR-15 and Rust Bullet here. Looks like you used the POR-15 on still-surface-rusted calipers, while the Rust Bullet you did a full metal prep first. That sound right? General preference of one vs the other?

Huh, never thought about whether those garage door functions could be used more generally. Nice idea, and great job documenting things here! I'll check back for future development.

What's shipping like to 06516 (CT) ?

Hope that leg is doing better now! Do you still have a pair of aluminum rear trailing arms? Any chance the brake backing plates aren't rusting much? And do you know how many miles on the bearings?

You listed: > USDM 2005 LGT front / rear arms. $200 but, pictured aluminum front arms. Do you have the alum rear arm-knuckle, too? Or standard steel?

Anyone got suggestions here? Do the JDM service manuals just not really exist?

As the title says... I would like to get a hold of PDFs (or pictures, if nothing else) of wiring diagrams for the Japan-specific BL/BP of the last year, or last two years (manufactured until 4/2009 I think). Specifically, I am interested in comparing the wiring and system layout of the earliest Eyesight system (2009), and want to compare the pinouts of the ECU for both 2008 and 2009 years, to see how much bother the electrical side is to use one from Ebay in my 2007. I've spent the past two days looking all around here and the general internet. I now know what I'm looking for are the manuals for models BLE/BLF / BPE/BPF, as described here: https://legacypic.uk/identification/index.php?appliedModel=bpef I am certain the JDM model must have a different wiring diagram versus the USDM and general market, but the closest I've ever gotten is a website claiming FSM for the general/rest of world market. It didn't have the Eyesight system, and I don't know if the ECU wiring is the same as the JDM I'm looking at. I have seen loads of suggestions to go to http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/. They do NOT have JDM versions as far as I can tell. Just in case you were thinking to share that link, thanks in advance for any help!!

Thread bump and price drop. Car is still available!

And, for your other offline question, the clicking axle is all that keeps me from highwaying it daily. Otherwise it is still great. Before that started (around November) I drove it ~3 hours each way to CT about once a month. Now I have been sticking with back roads. Front pads, rotors, calipers, and soft break lines I replaced Feb 2018. Turns out the rebuilt calipers I used were kind of garbage... the "weather proof" coating started peeling within a couple months. They do still slide fine though. Had a shop also flush the fluid. Rear rotors and pads done October (?) 2019, just sanded and lubed the rear calipers then. Also adjusted the parking brake. The pedal feel is squishy, like other BD/BGs I've driven... Seems to be a combo of master cylinder expansion and firewall flex? I've got a MC brace I've not yet installed. Since you mentioned it, if it is really getting up to 50-60'F this weekend I'm going to try loosening the boot and re-greasing that axle. If that quiets it down (easing up the friction) then hopefully that is enough you can drive it home worry free. Sent from my H3123 using Tapatalk

The skidplate bolts right on stock, I don't remember if the factory plastic splash guards were in the way because one was already gone. Not cut for oil changes, but one so bolted a pair of studs n place for easy re-alignment. It's tricky to line up the front bolts, that go into the radiator support... 4" bolts just gotta be aimed right. I'm sure we can find a nice deal to include those two items (steering wheel & skid plate). I think the wheel looks great with the trim, sad the factory only started it in 2000+. Sent from my H3123 using Tapatalk

Have a free bump for attention, just because I'm browsing the forum, and if I saw this a year ago I'd be flying down to Florida this weekend Good luck with the sale!

Is this the video you were looking for? About diagnosing voltage drop? Voltage Drop, Do We Really Need To Know It!? South Main Auto Repair LLC One of my parents' cars just had this sort of issue, so it's fresh in my mind.

Hey! I'll keep texting you details, but can answer some of your questions on here for general info: The windshield rust spot does not leak as far as I can tell. It's just about a year old, first saw the bubbles at the end of last winter. I've pulled off the A pillar trim and can't see any signs of perforation, though it should probably be repaired asap. I've been too afraid to apply a sander to the car... I'll take pictures of the strut mounts and under the car best I can. Have not noticed any rust on the strut mounts, luckily. Plenty surface rust under the car, but no perforation before this winter. I haven't looked hard this winter yet. The brake disk shields are sort of crumbling, and knuckles would suck to remove, but the frame below still looked OK. Rust around the wheel wells has grown more since I took these pictures, especially on the left side. Bubbling and some perforation for 3-4 inches on front and back. Sunroof, all windows, mirror defrosters, wiper defroster all still working. Seat heaters take a while to get going, combined with the stiff old leather. Main heat feels weak this winter, good enough for a 32 degree day but still chilly when it's 20`F... might be that I've not aligned the heat/cool lever cable right. I'll look at it again if I can. Rear defroster has one dead stripe. AC cools, and defoggs, too. I realize I only added this update to the other forum post, not here: The front-left CV has been "creaking" while driving or turning. I suspect the joint's lost its lubrication (3 y.o. aftermarket), so it should be replaced. I have the OEM one that was taken out of there, thinking about rebooting it myself, but I wouldn't be able to swap it on my own. Edited & updated first post to reflect this. "Back to stock" would entail: Remove JDM headlights Remove Mcintosh HU/amp Remove skidplate Remove BL/BP mirrors All of that would be replaced with the original equipment (except skidplate). Horns, steering wheel, and inside mirror would stay for just a little extra. Original replacements also on hand if you want to spend as little as possible. I'd also leave the headliner as-is. If you wanted me to undo that, I'd ask for a bit of extra $ for time/labor.

Bump! I got the job in Hawaii, so at least one of the Subarus needs to sell! Price drop, and open to offers. Also open to offers for parts and modifications (not parting out, but if it's listed and I have the stock part to swap it, send a message!)

There was a long thread about the LED lights on the 2020 Outback, over on that forum: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/headlights-set-too-high-on-2020-outback-onyx%E2%80%94dealer-wont-fix.515916/page-6#post-5915480 In summary, a lot of people said "suck it up", but then a lot of people also found the headlights aimed too high from the dealer... IIRC one person found them aimed 3+ inches high. Because of their high intensity and glare-inducing color temperature, they are indeed more of a nuisance to other drivers when not aimed right (a few inches below "level", not "level with the lamp centers")

Welcome! The forum's getting a little quiet for cars this old, but I'm sure the TT should get some attention! How about the basics first --- does your "Check Engine" light (MIL) light up? Can you get/borrow an OBD scanner and see if the engine is storing any trouble codes?

(Pictures of car for sale)

FS (MA): 1999 Legacy SUS $500+ This is my first car, fourth Subaru in our family. Built Feb 1999 (happy 20th birthday!) I've had her since 2011, 114,000 miles. Now 100,000+ miles and 8+ years later, I have a second Subaru myself, and am hoping to get a job offer across the country... so I am testing the waters for selling this old girl. The drivetrain and subsystems are strong, though the body needs attention for rust in the corners. Location: Lowell, Massachusetts Asking for $500 returned to approximately stock. I've started removing some of the added equipment here, and have some prices listed below. I *am* willing to sell with or without most of those customizations, but I will only sell those parts separately if I already have a buyer for the car, or else I am asking a bit more for the separate parts. That said, I do have nearly all the stock replacements for these still in storage, so whatever sells with the car I will be listing the OEM bits for dirt cheap afterwards. Ask me any questions! Current stats: 1999 Legacy SUS (Outback trim / Sport Utility Sedan) Limited, with leather interior, sunroof, 6 speakers. VIN: 4S3BD685XX72****4 227,000 miles on body. Engine may have been replaced before I got it, one shop stated. No major engine failures, though. (HG below was caught very early), so at least 110,000 on it. 2.5L EJ25D. Headgaskets + timing belt + timing kit replaced in 2015 around 165,000 by Boxer Motor Works, Salem, MA Tires are Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015, about 18 months old. Lifetime MPG 24.5, down from about 25.5 when running Hankook Optimo 727. Air conditioning works great! No torque bind! Running oil changes to 4000-4500, with analysis from Blackstone Labs Modifications: BL/BP side mirrors (fully working), from 2005 Legacy GT: folding, power adjust, defog, and turn signals. As far as I know this is one-of-a-kind, and it is probably my favorite mod here. $300 shipped JDM headlights, modified for LHD, with Phillips +50 low beams. Plug-and-play wiring adapter, no wirecutting needed! $200 shipped Primitive skid plate, under engine (aluminum) $50 pickup only please Hella Sharptone horns Auto-dimming mirror with compass and outside temp $50 shipped Wood-rim steering wheel from 03/04 LLBean VDC, incl airbag. $80 shipped or $40 local McIntosh head unit / amp from 01/02/03/04 Outback. No subwoofer. Plug-and-play wiring adapter, no cutting needed. Would recommend running more power when adding subwoofer. $160 shipped Bluetooth / Aux-in adapter: "Yatour" from eBay, for hands-free phone calls, or wired/wireless music. Mounted inside console, native plug to rear of Mcintosh head unit -claimed- LED bulbs: turn signals front/rear, reverse lights, interior / puddle lights "Custom" upholstered roof and sunroof shade: My girlfriend warns you about this: green paisley leaf trim, with night sky sunroof cover. I was experimenting... see pictures. Legacy wagon trunk liner, not an exact fit Spare tire well tool tray & plastic cover Also have (not installed) OEM SUS grille. After having it off for ~6 months of absentminded headlight & grill work, it didn't seem to fit right. Included for free with car. Set of 1" lift HDPE strut spacers, never installed. I chickened out of doing this with the original suspension, and wasn't ready to replace it all. $60 shipped? JDM auto HVAC controller + mixer door module. This would be my next project, not necessarily selling it yet. Grounding kit for engine/sensors. Forget who sold this... One OEM front axle, in need of re-booting. Free if you want it with the car. Repair history (off the top of my head): Timing belt, pulleys/tensioner, headgaskets replaced summer 2015 (165,000 miles) Transmission also drain/filled summer 2015 (same service) Exhaust repaired 2011, 2014, and 2018 (finally welded solid pieces in place of all flex/gasket joints). Left front axle, replaced 2016 or 2017 New tires around Jan 2018 (Yoko Geolandar) Front calipers + pads/rotors replaced Feb 2018. Rear caliper brackets were too rusted on for me to deal with in February. Right front axle, spring 2018 (I think?) A/C o-rings replaced summer 2018, and system recharged. Blows cold! Spark plugs + wires replaced summer 2018. Fuel filler neck replaced Jan 2019. Knock sensor replaced spring 2019 Rear pads & rotors replaced, summer 2019 Recommended work: Rust: especially, corner of windshield. I have been staring at this for a couple months, deciding how to attack it. Also rust growing: edge of hood, both front fenders, rear left quarter. Rear right quarter has 8+ year-old clearcoat damage IACV probably needs cleaning/replacing, sometimes reluctant to start, or idle sticks high HVAC control unit was blowing a fuse, so I removed the unit and just kept basics (fan speed, AC switch). Working on fixing this currently... Both front axles have now been replaced with aftermarket ones, so it has the shakes at idle. Sorry... I've gotten used to it! Left front axle clicking while driving / creaking in turns. I'd definitely replace it before driving on the highway! Have used OEM axle from this car, might reboot this to swap on your own.