DaveWaters Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 (edited) I got the heads back on and just wanted to update. I did pre adjust the valves on the bench but after I torqued them on the engine they tightened up so I had to readjust. Just figured I would update for anyone else with the same question. Thanks again for everyone's help Apparently this is common. While discussing my build with the owner/engine builder at the shop where my car is tuned he asked me if I personally set up the valve lash. I told him no, the machine shop did but I checked their work. Then gave me a concerned look and asked, you did check them after torquing the heads to the block? I told him yes funny you ask because I did notice a very slight change in clearance which I figured was just due to the thick assembly lube. He said he was relieved because some people don’t and the heads do flex when they are torqued down to the block which can change the clearance. In my case I noticed the feeler was snug in one or two after the heads were mounted. Also as was said above if they go out of spec after the timing belt is on you’ve got bigger problems Edited December 3, 2020 by DaveWaters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 I just did the timing belt today, I will recheck the valves now that it's on to make sure they are still good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 Checked valves with belt on and all is good still. I seem to have lost the half moon shaped bracket that goes above the timing belt/crank. Ive looked everywhere but can't locate it. Is this part necessary or just a precaution? At a stand still till I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Glad to hear! As for the timing belt guide, if the car is automatic you wouldn't have one (at least thats the way the lgt is). If manual trans. you should replace if missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 5, 2020 Author Share Posted December 5, 2020 Its the automatic with the sports shift. I appreciate the info, was losing my mind looking for it. Saved me a trip to the junkyard in the morning as well. The cars been sitting since the belt broke and bent the valves for about a year. After replacing the head gaskets and valves is there anything else I should be aware of before trying to start it again? I'm assuming the gas went bad, I added stabil but not till a few weeks ago. I know I have to change the oil/filter and refill the coolant. Not worried about the freeon till its running ( I do have a vacuum pump/guages). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 Update. Its all back together and running good. Glad I could bring her back from death. Thanks everyone for the guidance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Good to hear. I like to carry the coolant bottle with me for a couple days to top off the coolant if needed. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 Good tip, will do. Thanks max. I notice a drop this morning after a short drive. Found the upper radiator hose was leaking alittle at the clamp to the engine. Tightened so hope it gone now. She feels pretty stiff still, I'm hoping it's just cause it was sitting for a year and not that I should tighten the valves alittle. I used to run the iridium plugs but only had money for the coppers at the moment, would this be a noticeable difference in this engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 (edited) For the plugs, I'm going with yea, those copper plugs will not last as long, and may not perform as well. I buy the one step colder plugs, because they are cheaper. Been using them since the first plug change back about Sept 2006. NGK 1 Step Colder Iridium Spark Plugs Subaru (LFR7AIX 2309) Seem to recall you want to buy them from a local auto parts store, as some of the online orders have been fake NGK's. Edited December 7, 2020 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Max- not sure if that part # would apply since his cars non turbo. But like you said copper may not last very long and since the NA cars already have a short 30k replacement interval using NGK OEM recommended would be the way to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 So today the dreaded p0420 code popped up, I guess it waited for the drive cycle to complete. Thinking thats maybe why it feels stiff and under powered. Ive read about it here on the forums but I don't have a inferred thermometer and my scanner tells me the o2 live scanning is supported. Trying to locate one or both from friends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks cuz that can cause a P0420. My cam sensor o-ring wasn't sealing and caused a P0420 when it got cold out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 (edited) I located a reader with live data and a inferred thermometer. The readings I got really confuse me though. First the o2s S1 was staying pretty steady around 2.6 range S2 was moving fast from .1 to .8 range First I thought s1 was pre cat and s2 was post but from the readings it would indicate the other way around. Second a reading of 2.6? I didn't think this was supposed to be over 1 volt. I had a hard time with trying to get under the car enough to get great temp readings but from what I could get the temp was 20 hotter from the front to back of the first converter and it the 2nd converter produced about the same temp front to back. Can anyone shed some light here? Edited December 9, 2020 by Ultimateduster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 @pleides I just took off my cam sensor to check and it dosent have a o ring or a spot for it. I'm guessing the SOHC NA motors don't have one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 How warm was the engine when you temped the cat? It doesn’t start to fire off till it reaches a certain temp. Clogged cats tend to read considerably higher temps pre cat like 200°+. Also verify it’s in closed loop when you are watching the o2 and if you can put the scanner in a graphic view it helps give a more visual representation of the functionality of the sensors As far as the plugs, iridium all the way. When I got into the tuning aspect, I became a real believer of using good quality right for the application plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 I had driven the car about 15 miles and then left it running as I ran the tests so it was fully warmed. I'm pretty sure it i remember seeing it say it was in closed loop when reading the sensors. I just don't understand why I was getting a 2.6 reading when everything I find online says it should be .5 range Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcdrift Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 check Nasioc or RS25 for the specs. They have links to manuals too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimateduster Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 From the manuel I guess the specs are ok. I don't think its a exhaust leak as its not throwing any codes for that and when I mounted up the exhaust to the heads I used fresh gaskets that I coated very thoroughly in copper gasket spray as well. I built a smoke machine so I can test all the vacuum lines so I guess I'll check the exhaust as well to be 100%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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