OBXTNoob Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 Man this build has got me going crazy. I can't fall asleep because I keep thinking about what I need to do to the car, and the more I think the more I come up with. Yesterday I read something about wrapping the DP, UP and using a turbo blanket in combination with a heatshield. So my question is wouldn't the turbo get too hot with a blanket on it? I'm putting a new hot side on already and from my understanding the vf52 turbos crack due to heat.....so why use additional wraps and put the turbo in danger? Had anyone wrapped their turbo? I am aware of the heatsoak btw Also should I wrap the uppipe since I have it off right now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 btssm? If that's the adapter for the OBD2 then no. I'm gonna get the Cobb Accessport V3, dunno if those are the same. See post 1 from this thread https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-bluetooth-adapter-app-v-1-closed-229709.html I run this all the time in my cars so I can monitor the overall health of the engine. For instance, when I install fuel injectors, I watched the misfire per cylinder parameter to make sure it remains clear. Although you will definitely be able to tell if a cylinder is misfiring. But without the app, you won't know exactly which cylinder is doing it. Hopefully, won't happen to you at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 Wow that is actually pretty dope....only problem is that I have an iPhone.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Yeah, iphone is a problem. But you can do like me: permanent wired install of a tablet in the cubby. I've had a Nexus 7 installed in there for the past 4-5 years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 Yeah, iphone is a problem. But you can do like me: permanent wired install of a tablet in the cubby. I've had a Nexus 7 installed in there for the past 4-5 years now. Do you have a guide to do that? Also show me some pics of how it looks in the car. Appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Hmm...I already bought fluid film and the gun...I was gonna apply it after I finish installing all the stuff. I can probably still return it since I got it all at Amazon. Does the CRC stuff spay out the same way as the Fluid Film? Hmm, I'm not sure. If you're going to go the air-powered route (instead of aerosol) I would look into this other Cosmoline solution (https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/vehicle-undercoatings/). That being said, I don't think you need to split hairs and drive yourself crazy. Fluid Film is still a good product. If you don't want to go through the trouble of returning it, just use it up and make the switch to Cosmoline later down the line. Man this build has got me going crazy. I can't fall asleep because I keep thinking about what I need to do to the car, and the more I think the more I come up with.... Don't get yourself all twisted into a knot. Unless you're a SEMA show car builder, you don't have to get everything right in one go. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good. I find that it also helps to get thoughts out of my head and onto a spreadsheet or something. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Don't get yourself all twisted into a knot. Unless you're a SEMA show car builder, you don't have to get everything right in one go. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good. I find that it also helps to get thoughts out of my head and onto a spreadsheet or something. Thanks man, I just get too into things, I started to work on the car at 9 and stopped at 4 because it got dark. I had my first meal at 5 Crazy I know. So I got the downpipe and the turbo in and let me tell you that oil return hose on the underside of the turbo is a MOFO to get in. Took forever to align everything. I ended up using the screwing clamps instead of the OEM ones. I had to tighten the side closer to the turbo first then slide it onto the tube on the engine and then tightening it from underneath the car with a long ass extension and socket. No idea why the put everything so close. I wrapped my DP (and UpPipe), with the DEI Titanium wrap. Was happy as hell and when I went to tighten the 5 nuts on the DP, the flanged nuts didn't have clearance because of the additional girth from the SS ziptie and wrap......this was an issue on only two nuts so I grinded the flanges down on the nuts to fit them but tomorrow I will redo the wrap a few inches lower to give me proper clearance. I want to torque the everything to suggested specifications. Ugh...if I ever have to do this again I will fly through the entire process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Here are some photos of what I did today. New VF52 Hotside Ported WG on New Hotside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcsnsparks Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) dont forget a quality air oil separator you gonna need it with all that power on a block with 140k my daily is a 2008 OBXTact clutchwhite line swayskiller bee oil pick up and windlasscylinder 4 cooling modstoptech pads and rotorsavo top mountiag air oil separatorcobb short throw shiftercobb intake with air boxcobb down pipe30k on new long block with rebuilt headsrebuilt 5 speed silvers coil overs with swift springs order this week going to a vf 52 with fueling this spring she is the go fast grocery getter Edited January 15, 2021 by arcsnsparks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 dont forget a quality air oil separator you gonna need it with all that power on a block with 140k my daily is a 2008 OBXT act clutch white line sways killer bee oil pick up and windlass cylinder 4 cooling mod stoptech pads and rotors avo top mount iag air oil separator cobb short throw shifter cobb intake with air box cobb down pipe 30k on new long block with rebuilt heads rebuilt 5 speed silvers coil overs with swift springs order this week going to a vf 52 with fueling this spring she is the go fast grocery getter Hahaha yeah groceries and fly fishing mobile for me. Yeah man I gotta get my car complete with everything I’m doing and get it tuned first. Don’t want to drop more money right now. Atleast until the spring time. Btw I was reading that the oil separator is not as effective as people say it is and that it’s not even worth getting. I dunno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homam Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 HiI am a new member of this forum and I hope to get a solution to my problemMy english is not excellent so please help me in simple languageMy 2005 Subaru Legacy has a 2.0 engineThe car started very slowly, between 2000 and 3000 rpmAnd very bad when hillyWhen the battery cable is disconnected for a period of time, the problem will disappear and reappear after a short timeDid not give errors in the scannerThe specialist could not know the malfunctionHe did everything necessary and we did not find a solution to this problemDoes the rear brake lights have anything to do with this malfunction or the exhaust muffler?Please solve because I am tired of trying and spending moneythanxs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Here are some photos of what I did today. Ported WG on New Hotside [ATTACH]289630[/ATTACH] You might want to make sure that the edge of the hole isn't sharp but a bit rounded because a sharp edge is more heat sensitive than a rounded and more prone to stressing of the material. Of course - if you already have removed material it might not be much room left to do that now. https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/26514/why-do-stress-concentrations-really-occur?rq=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 You might want to make sure that the edge of the hole isn't sharp but a bit rounded because a sharp edge is more heat sensitive than a rounded and more prone to stressing of the material. Of course - if you already have removed material it might not be much room left to do that now. https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/26514/why-do-stress-concentrations-really-occur?rq=1 Well, I mean I left a bit more room than the old hot side had but the turbo is already sitting in the car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcsnsparks Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Here are some photos of what I did today. [ATTACH]289627[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]289628[/ATTACH] New VF52 Hotside [ATTACH]289629[/ATTACH] Ported WG on New Hotside [ATTACH]289630[/ATTACH] i took stainless steel wire and did a diamond pattern over the heat wrap on mine. after 2 years it might be the only thing keeping the wrap on the downpipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 i took stainless steel wire and did a diamond pattern over the heat wrap on mine. after 2 years it might be the only thing keeping the wrap on the downpipe Yup, I have to redo the downpipe because my welded one gives me a crazy angle and points into the bottom of the car. I just ordered a new Invidia DP specific for my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 That is one area you'll want to use high temp anti-seize (I used copper). The downpipe-to-turbo flange is very tight as you probably already discovered. Getting a socket on one or two of those nuts is impossible. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 That is one area you'll want to use high temp anti-seize (I used copper). The downpipe-to-turbo flange is very tight as you probably already discovered. Getting a socket on one or two of those nuts is impossible. Dude that realization broke my heart lol... I was so excited to put it all together only to find the nuts don't fit. Luckily, I didn't think long enough and just grinded the nut flanges down with a dremel. AND THEN I ran into the angle issue with the modified DP..... So now I gotta take it off put the new DP on and hope the issue is resolved... It should have been tuned and on the road by now. Definitely a learning process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 The nuts don't fit? You're having a harder go of it than I did. Here is the carnage of the nut I wrestled with. The stud came out before the nut did. Hours of heat, chiseling, and wrenching did nothing. Ultimately it was an oscillating multi-tool I borrowed from my contractor that did it. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 The nuts don't fit? You're having a harder go of it than I did. Here is the carnage of the nut I wrestled with. The stud came out before the nut did. Hours of heat, chiseling, and wrenching did nothing. Ultimately it was an oscillating multi-tool I borrowed from my contractor that did it. Wow! And you would think that after paying hundreds of dollars for aftermarket parts they would have corrected the issue by now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTNoob Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 UPDATE: Alright so, I put everything back together and after I started the car a crazy amount of white smoke came out the tailpipe, and the Uppipe was smoking a little. After taking a closer look, I saw that the smoke was coming from the flange were the UP connects to manifold... then I saw some oil drips. Immediately my heart sank. I inspected everything around the turbo and valve cover and it was all dry. My conclusion was that it was the turbo leaking internally. I reached out to a friend who is a good mechanic and has experience with performance cars. Told me to drive it around the block and see if the oil drip increased. To my surprise the oil drip decreased and after I left the car running for a few minutes it stopped smoking and dipping completely....The turbo had no play at all, everything was installed accordingly, no visible leaks...I did notice that the inside of the uppipe was covered in oil( I bought it used). My question is, could it be the oil inside the uppipe that was just burning off and turning into a drip since it got hot when the car started running? I also checked my coolant and oil levels, before and after running the car and levels didn't change. Anyone have this issue? If the smoking stops and no drip is found from here on, is it a good idea to assume that the issue is resolved? Is the scenario that I described even possible? So for the good news, I only have to put in the fuel pump and I'm ready for a tune. (If the turbo is ok that is...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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