New Build, suggestions appreciated.

[OBXTNoob]

I owned the 2006 N/A Outback and always felt like it was way too slow. I was happy with all the other features but it just didn't have any balls at all. I ended up buying a 2005 OBXT and even the stock performance put a smile on my face. My goal now is to make about 300WHP while keep the car reliable. This is the build I am going for:

 

VF52 Turbo ( ported) ( will remove the union bolt screens)

Up/Down Catless

DW65c Fuel Pump

DW740cc Injectors

3 port EBCS

Tune

 

Maybe:

Upgrage engine/tranny mounts

Upgrade suspension

 

I read that this should take me to about 280-300whp. Will this build be reliable or is there something else I should include. All suggestions are appreciated. Thank You!

[boxkita]

how many miles on car? where do you live (different weather/road determines rust)

[OBXTNoob]

Got the car from Florida. 1 owner, not beat up. No leaks, clutch is on point. Timing belt done at 100k( I’m assuming other stuff was done too) No rust. 140k. I live in CT.

[ehsnils]

Got the car from Florida. 1 owner, not beat up. No leaks, clutch is on point. Timing belt done at 100k( I’m assuming other stuff was done too) No rust. 140k. I live in CT.

Fluid film it! Also inside doors and hollow items.

 

 

 

Just make sure it's clean and salt free before you do that.

[OBXTNoob]

Fluid film it! Also inside doors and hollow items.

 

 

 

Just make sure it's clean and salt free before you do that.

 

 

Oh thanks man! I didn’t even know what fluid film was before you mentioned it. Definitely a good idea and doesn’t seem expensive to get it professionally done either.

[shralp]

Your build should get you close to 300 to the wheels. I ran the same set up for many rears and it was a lot of fun. My main thoughts would be: Budget for another clutch as 140k on the stocker won’t serve you well once you spend some time putting down more power. Just sack up and get a catted DP, your not leaving any significant power on the table, your car will be way less stinky and it’s just less douchey for the planet. Might want to do a compression check just to make sure the motor is healthy before dumping money into it. I’d suggest getting your VF52 from forum turbo builder JMP, I’m running his 11 blade billet version in my daily driver and it’s really nice.

[OBXTNoob]

Your build should get you close to 300 to the wheels. I ran the same set up for many rears and it was a lot of fun. My main thoughts would be: Budget for another clutch as 140k on the stocker won’t serve you well once you spend some time putting down more power. Just sack up and get a catted DP, your not leaving any significant power on the table, your car will be way less stinky and it’s just less douchey for the planet. Might want to do a compression check just to make sure the motor is healthy before dumping money into it. I’d suggest getting your VF52 from forum turbo builder JMP, I’m running his 11 blade billet version in my daily driver and it’s really nice.

 

 

Damn, I already bought a VF52(no play at all, no cracks but need an actuator cause was set up for external WG). I also just got Invidia DP and uncatted I got it for an extremely good deal. BTW what do you mean stinky? Like will it smell inside the car? A compression test is a good idea. I will ask a mechanic friend to test that for me.

 

Update:

 

So I have all the parts that I listed besides the WG actuator which I will get from a friend sometime soon. I will send out the injectors to witchhunter.com to have em cleaned because I got em used. I spent about $1k all together. I got everything used in extremely good condition which I am proud off. PS I'm thinking about a GFB bov, if I tune the car and install the BOV after will I need to retune?

[shralp]

Uncatted cars can tend to be a bit smelly, sometimes in cabin sometimes not, depends on the car. If the OEM BOV is functioning as it was designed you shouldn't need an aftermarket one for a set up like this.

[OBXTNoob]

Uncatted cars can tend to be a bit smelly, sometimes in cabin sometimes not, depends on the car. If the OEM BOV is functioning as it was designed you shouldn't need an aftermarket one for a set up like this.

 

Damn that sucks....well I hope mine doesn't smell. I want the sound of the aftermarket BOV

 

BTW, after I install all this stuff will it be safe to drive my car to the shop to get it tuned? It's like 20 miles away

[OBXTNoob]

So I finally got around to my project. So far I took my up pipe, turbro, and downpipe off. When I compared the OEM Downpipe to the Used Invidia pipe I bought, the Invidia downpipe is about 4 inches too short.... After doing some research, I found that for what ever reason, some years of the car had a shorter downpipe. Since I got it for 100 bucks I will just have someone cut it and weld in an extension so that the flange can reach and connect to the rest of the exhaust. Also the bung for the back o2 sensor was plugged with a bolt, when I removed the bold it seems like the hole is too small to fit the OEM 02 sensor.... I know this sensor is useless since there is no cat in the aftermarket downpipe I bought. So if there is no o2 sensor connected on the downpipe and uppipe, will my performance or function of the car be effected? I'm assuming everyone does this since grimmspeed uppipe doesn't have a sensor bung and a catless downpipe sensor is useless since there is no cat... I know this is probably an old topic but I tried searching the forum and cannot find much info on this. Can I have someone please verify this? All the feedback is appreciated. Thanks!

[xt2005bonbon]

I cannot fully answer your questions, but there is no o2 sensor in the uppipe. It is (was) an EGT sensor.

 

The o2 sensor is located right before the uppipe in the exhaust manifold.

 

The ECU relies on this sensor while running in closed loop (i.e. checks the amount of air that was sucked in, then use the ECU to figure how much fuel to send, then check what the o2 sensor reads in terms of AFR and compare with ECU values, if too lean or too rich, then correct the fuel amount accordingly).

 

In open loop, it no longer relies on the o2 sensor to figure out how much fuel needs to be injected in the engine. It just looks at values stored in the ECU given the amount of air that was sucked in the engine and some other parameters.

 

 

The rear o2 sensor is what is installed in the downpipe. Can't remember exactly its function, but I think it checks catalytic operation I think? Someone can correct everything I said here .

[OBXTNoob]

I cannot fully answer your questions, but there is no o2 sensor in the uppipe. It is (was) an EGT sensor.

 

The o2 sensor is located right before the uppipe in the exhaust manifold.

 

The ECU relies on this sensor while running in closed loop (i.e. checks the amount of air that was sucked in, then use the ECU to figure how much fuel to send, then check what the o2 sensor reads in terms of AFR and compare with ECU values, if too lean or too rich, then correct the fuel amount accordingly).

 

In open loop, it no longer relies on the o2 sensor to figure out how much fuel needs to be injected in the engine. It just looks at values stored in the ECU given the amount of air that was sucked in the engine and some other parameters.

 

 

The rear o2 sensor is what is installed in the downpipe. Can't remember exactly its function, but I think it checks catalytic operation I think? Someone can correct everything I said here .

 

Ok, so this means I do not necessarily need the rear o2 sensor.. Correct? Someone told me that it regulates Air/Fuel ratio and that I will need it for dyno tuning, and if I do not have it that my car will run rich as **** because of a safety mechanism.

[Pleides]

Ok, so this means I do not necessarily need the rear o2 sensor.. Correct? Someone told me that it regulates Air/Fuel ratio and that I will need it for dyno tuning, and if I do not have it that my car will run rich as **** because of a safety mechanism.

 

Dyno tuners use an O2 bung and then bypass the check engine code and active readings from your rear O2 if you have an aftermarket downpipe.

 

Also, what about the aftermarket BOV sound do you like? It's highly advisable to leave the factory BPV on the car until it fails because MAF cars like ours do NOT like vent-to-atmosphere valves. An aftermarket intake will get you most of the sound you're looking for, I think.

[OBXTNoob]

Dyno tuners use an O2 bung and then bypass the check engine code and active readings from your rear O2 if you have an aftermarket downpipe.

 

Also, what about the aftermarket BOV sound do you like? It's highly advisable to leave the factory BPV on the car until it fails because MAF cars like ours do NOT like vent-to-atmosphere valves. An aftermarket intake will get you most of the sound you're looking for, I think.

 

I like the sound honestly, I wouldn't go full atmosphere. Didn't know that would be a problem tbh. So if I go 50/50 on a hybrid GFB BOV it would fail the MAF? I will actually keep the intake stock for now. From my understandin it is sufficient for what I'm doing.

[OBXTNoob]

Also, I came across this issue...

 

When I bought the turbo I did not even see the little hairline crack because the flap was closed with a grimmspeed EWG bracket. People have told me that I can run the tubro like that since it is a tiny crack, which is pretty common on this turbo. However, since it is out of the car and I found it I wanna do the right thing. I can either buy another hot side housing, I found some online for $125.00, but I'm afraid that it is made out of some bullshit material or I can weld it and repair the crack. Thoughts?

 

I am literally ready to put all of this stuff back, and I keep running into issues. This is my first time doing anything like this myself but I should have been done by now for sure. On top of that, I will be upgrading my fuel injectors to DW740 and fuel pump to dw65c(this I am nervous about).

Edited January 9, 2021 by OBXTNoob

[ehsnils]

The crack is due to heat stress, and even though it looks bad it could even seal up when it gets hot during driving.

 

 

If there's no fluid channel or so involved in that part of the housing I would just leave it. It's a design flaw of the turbo and a new one would get the same crack over time. A different turbo model that's designed differently in that area may be the only way out of this.

 

 

 

Only real way to prevent this crack to form is to ensure you warm up softly and cool down softly.

 

 

The mating surface for the flap and the flap itself is more important.

 

 

Cracks in other places where the mating between the housings are impacted is another issue though.

[OBXTNoob]

The crack is due to heat stress, and even though it looks bad it could even seal up when it gets hot during driving.

 

 

If there's no fluid channel or so involved in that part of the housing I would just leave it. It's a design flaw of the turbo and a new one would get the same crack over time. A different turbo model that's designed differently in that area may be the only way out of this.

 

 

 

Only real way to prevent this crack to form is to ensure you warm up softly and cool down softly.

 

 

The mating surface for the flap and the flap itself is more important.

 

 

Cracks in other places where the mating between the housings are impacted is another issue though.

 

Yeah based on what I have been reading that sounds accurate. However, I really want this build to not give me any problems, especially initially during tuning. I ordered a new hot side housing and will install it on the turbo. I just don't want to have anxiety every time I push the car a little extra. An additional $125 for a peace of mind is definitely worth it for me.

So while the turbo part is on its way I will install the DW65c pump, my DW740cc injectors, new sparkplugs, EBCS, and anything else I can get done.

 

Funny thing is that like an idiot I filled up my car with 89 octane by accident so now I gotta pump that out too before the tune

[ehsnils]

Just keep the old housing as a backup since it's still usable.

 

 

Pump out some fuel, add octane booster?

[OBXTNoob]

Just keep the old housing as a backup since it's still usable.

 

 

Pump out some fuel, add octane booster?

 

 

I have a N/A Outback, I think ill just pump most of the fuel out and put it in the other car. Then I will just get like 5 gallons of 93, just so I can drive to the gas station and fill up.

 

 

Update: I got the hot side off the turbo (was a bitch to get off but patience, PB blaster and a hammer got the job done). Installed the 740cc injectors and let me tell you, that wasn't nowhere as easy as it should have been. Why the hell are all the lines coming from the engine so close to the injectors, I have no ******* clue. Was ridiculous but I got it done.

[xt2005bonbon]

Did you use new orings for the fuel injectors as well as some lube?

[OBXTNoob]

Did you use new orings for the fuel injectors as well as some lube?

 

I sent my injectors to WitchHunter Performance for clean/test so all the accessories are brand new. I oiled up the rings ( only the rings) so they could slide in better. It was still difficult to pop them in but I got it done. It was nothing like the videos I watched on youtube lol Definitely couldn't pop them in without some effort.

[xt2005bonbon]

Yeah, it does require some force to put them in. I usually use the end of a long socket extension and make sure I apply even force. You don't want to have a pinched oring. Do you have Btssm?

[OBXTNoob]

Yeah, it does require some force to put them in. I usually use the end of a long socket extension and make sure I apply even force. You don't want to have a pinched oring. Do you have Btssm?

 

btssm? If that's the adapter for the OBD2 then no. I'm gonna get the Cobb Accessport V3, dunno if those are the same.

Edited January 13, 2021 by OBXTNoob

[Enlight]

Re: protecting your car from corrosion, I recently switched from Fluid Film to CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. The latter is basically a sprayable Cosmoline. It's more durable than Fluid Film and does not remain tacky, attracting dust etc.

[OBXTNoob]

Re: protecting your car from corrosion, I recently switched from Fluid Film to CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. The latter is basically a sprayable Cosmoline. It's more durable than Fluid Film and does not remain tacky, attracting dust etc.

 

Hmm...I already bought fluid film and the gun...I was gonna apply it after I finish installing all the stuff. I can probably still return it since I got it all at Amazon. Does the CRC stuff spay out the same way as the Fluid Film?