08SubieLegacy Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 I have a 2008 Legacy, 2.5 NA engine, 4eat auto transmission. The car has 134k miles. Transmission failed, and needed replacement. The CV axles were replaced 6 months ago with the HD Duralast axles from Autozone. I got a used transmission from the salvage yard, has 64k miles on it. My head gaskets were leaking badly, so I figured since the engine and transmission were going to be separated, I'd pull the engine too and fix the head gaskets. I installed the new transmission today, have not reinstalled the engine yet. So here are my questions: 1. The torque converter from the new transmission has some slight surface rust on it, so I think it was exposed to the elements. I think it is fine to use, since it has significantly less mileage than the original one for my car. Any reason not to use the torque converter that came with the transmission from the salvage yard? 2. Is Subaru branded transmission fluid necessary? I've always used the Subaru fluid before. Wondering if there is a cheaper, local option. 3. I know with new head gaskets, I can use the blue Subaru coolant, instead of the older green style. Do I need to use the Subaru branded stuff, or is there another coolant that can be used? 4. In order to unbolt the torque converter from the engine, I had to remove the upper intake manifold from the engine. Is that normal, or did I miss something and do something stupid and unnecessary? Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SubieLegacy Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 Anyone? Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Not much help with automatics, but there is a rubber plug on the back, top of the block that I believe is used to get to the bolts on the torque convertor. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SubieLegacy Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 Not much help with automatics, but there is a rubber plug on the back, top of the block that I believe is used to get to the bolts on the torque convertor.Thanks. Yeah, I was able to access that plug after I pulled the upper intake manifold off. Hoping I missed something and can access it with the manifold on. Would be easier to install the engine with it on. Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Not much help with automatics, but there is a rubber plug on the back, top of the block that I believe is used to get to the bolts on the torque convertor. Ah that makes sense. I was wondering why the EJ25 had them (seem kind of odd for a inspection window). It will would be nearly impossible to get the torque converter bolts from below without removing the steering/crossmember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 I used Subaru ATF in my 4EAT and Subaru Coolant in my radiator. I am OEM part person though, so I am not sure if that is helpful. I would check to make sure the part numbers for the torque converter are compatible between year the transmission is coming out of and your car. It probably is the same. I wouldn't have any issue with surface rust from being out assuming the TC was connected to the transmission. Depending on the failure of your transmission, your original TC's ATF could be contaminated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Member "apexi" is good with 2.5i's. May be you can PM him for help. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SubieLegacy Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 Thanks for the input. I'm going to use the Torque Converter from the new transmission. It's the same part number as my old one. I'm also going to stick with OEM fluids. Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 o.e. and o.e.m. for the win! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 bolts for torque converter are best accessed by removing panel on the bottom. two 10mm bolts. the 4 bolts are 12mm. Helps if you can hold the starter gear when undoing bolts, hold the crankshaft (22mm bolt). A long handled ratcheting wrench works best. Just did this today Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leetdrv Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 I always take the tq bolts out trough the hole covered by the rubber plug on the top of the engine. no special tools needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Hole on top under rubber plug is there specifically for the torque converter bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 bolts for torque converter are best accessed by removing panel on the bottom. two 10mm bolts. the 4 bolts are 12mm. Helps if you can hold the starter gear when undoing bolts, hold the crankshaft (22mm bolt). A long handled ratcheting wrench works best. Just did this today It must be a lot different for a 5th Gen. The bottom access plate is very difficult to get to with the motor installed in a 5th gen. I forgot to install it when putting the motor in and I had to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the motor get it in and most of that was blind. I could not even slide the panel plate in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 I always take the tq bolts out trough the hole covered by the rubber plug on the top of the engine. no special tools needed. Hole on top under rubber plug is there specifically for the torque converter bolts if you remove the starter and put transmission in neutral, you'll be cussing trying to get enough leverage to undo the bolts. On the 4th gen, the plate is accessible from underneath. if you do what i did, dropping engine & 5eat down instead of lifting up, you'll find yourself hanging the assembly from a crane in order to remove the torque converter bolts. Otoh, the whole thing comes out of the car really fast - 10 bolts and its on the floor Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SubieLegacy Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Is there a gasket for the transmission? For warranty purposes, I need to change the filter and gasket inside the transmission. Looks like it's just RTV, but would prefer a rubber gasket. Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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