pronkie1 Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 I still have my original front brakes with just over 88k miles on it.. Had the rears replaced at 77k last year..Since new I drove 86 miles round trip all freeway.. This January I retired so now all local city driving... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 That's pretty impressive, especially with an automatic transmission too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert L Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 I got over 160,000 on my front pads and, surprisingly only 130,000 out of my rear pads. Yes mostly highway driving, but these Legacy's are easy on pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WILLINH Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 So what does everyone like for rotor and pad replacements? OE? I need to do front and back in a couple of months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chowser51 Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 When I did the front I tried slotted/drilled. Never again. Too noisy. OEM for me from now on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoney468 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 So what does everyone like for rotor and pad replacements? OE? I need to do front and back in a couple of months. There are many better options than OEM. Depending on where you live, they have elemental coated rotors which work well in the salt/winter belt. Many good pads out there too, I’ve gone with Raybestos pads and they’ve worked well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 When I did the front I tried slotted/drilled. Never again. Too noisy. OEM for me from now on. Did you do a break in process when you had the cross/drilled rotors?also a lot of times it’s not the rotors it’s the pad you use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chowser51 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Yep, I got on the highway in a remote area and bedded them in good. It was still noisy. My previous bmw had the slotted/drilled from the factory and didn't make noise. i forgot what brand i used on the legacy, i think it was powerstop? i got the parts from rockauto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Yep, I got on the highway in a remote area and bedded them in good. It was still noisy. My previous bmw had the slotted/drilled from the factory and didn't make noise. i forgot what brand i used on the legacy, i think it was powerstop? i got the parts from rockauto. Ah ok I have stoptech rotors with STi pads But my brother bought powerstop cross/drilled rotors and pads installed on his Lexus and it made noise for weeks and I told him to replace the pads and he got a cheaper pads form AUTOZONE and no more noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 60K on mine. The rears might be due in another 20k or so. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 when I did my brakes on my 2014 it was at 60K due to a seized caliper pin brake pads were over 50% left on the good side... should have made it well past 100K but due to bad pin, did the job early. want your brake to last? simple do not wait until the last minute to stop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 (edited) For most people you can get great pads and rotors from your local auto parts store. Just buy there top end pads and rotors. That is the same stuff most repair shops use. Unless your looking for much better performance, you'll be fine. Also if you have issues, the local store is right there to get you a replacement. This may help some of you, https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diy-how-to-2015-2019-subaru-outback-front-brake-pad-replacement.520491/ For those that are handy, here's one upgrade that might work on Legacy 3.6R ? https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/subaru-ascent-brake-swap-bigger-than-brembos-for-29.526358/ Edited December 31, 2020 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pronkie1 Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 I still have my original front brakes with just over 88k miles on it.. Had the rears replaced at 77k last year..Since new I drove 86 miles round trip all freeway.. This January I retired so now all local city driving... Update: Just had the car at the dealer(Subaru of Sherman Oaks CA)..They said the front brake pads are at 8mm and rears at 6mm...I'm at 89,800 miles and now just drive locally as been retired for a year....They did find my AAA series group 25 battery was bad...Was replaced in March 2020 by AAA so called and got a free replacement......Tech from AAA didn't believe it was bad until he tested himself....He did state group series 25 is not a fast mover which could explain how my battery went bad.....Ironic the replaced battery has a sticker of 11/20 on it ...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Update: Just had the car at the dealer(Subaru of Sherman Oaks CA)..They said the front brake pads are at 8mm and rears at 6mm...I'm at 89,800 miles and now just drive locally as been retired for a year....They did find my AAA series group 25 battery was bad...Was replaced in March 2020 by AAA so called and got a free replacement......Tech from AAA didn't believe it was bad until he tested himself....He did state group series 25 is not a fast mover which could explain how my battery went bad.....Ironic the replaced battery has a sticker of 11/20 on it ...... It sounds like you have plenty of life left on your pads, especially if you're an efficient around-town driver (e.g., coast, plenty of room between cars, etc.) Good for you and your driving style. I figure AAA guys, if they're smart, will cycle through the older stock first when they're called. I don't know if it's true, but some places claim to top batteries off every so often. I've never once seen a batter pulled from a rack to be charged or touched by a tech, though it could obviously be done in the back, and I'm obviously not staking the place out to find out. When I bought my last battery I made sure to ask for the newest battery they had and they complied. The time before I didn't and they brought out the dustiest battery I've ever seen in my life. It was more than size months old and the voltage showed only a 50% SOC, so I declined; they eventually brought me a SAT battery. What also helps the life of the battery is having a smart charger, like Ctek or NOCO, as examples, to maintain the battery while you're not driving. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now