THM Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Another new dumb subaru owner here, but I've searched and cannot find a direct answer. Pulled the turbo and saw that the tips of the compressor blades are broken - don't know what did it. Is it likely any particulates made it past the TMIC and into the engine? I do not see evidence of any metal after straining a qt of drained oil through a coffee filter - no obvious sheen or glitter on the coffee filter or in the un-coffee filtered portion of drained oil. Nothing noticeable on a magnet I placed in the drained oil. There did, however, appear to be some silver 'glitter' on the coolant tubes to the turbo but nothing obvious in the drained coolant. No P0011 code, no smoke observed, no crazy noises, no oil usage in the short time I've owned it (about 2.5k miles). I did have a P0021 and replaced the bank 2 ocs solenoid / sensor (the banjo filter had fallen out and down onto the solenoid - there was a small section of screen missing). Had a P1153 - I replaced 02 sensor. Still has P2004 and P2016 - gonna replace that sensor that is up against the turbo while it's out (tgv butterflies were previously removed but the rod, motors, and sensors are still intact). As for the rest of the turbo there is no shaft play and it spins freely. There were no noises except for a slight 'rattle' / 'tick' from the turbo which I believe was coming from the wastegate flap on the exhaust side. It was not seated fully and was rattling around just a little. That very slight noise is what caused me to inspect the turbo hoping to head off major problems. Car ran fine (other than a bit of rough idle cleared up after ocs solenoid replacement) and seemed to have plenty of get up and go - though I haven't really hammered on it other than the test drive. Further background on the car - '05 obxt that the previous owner swapped an engine out of a '11 wrx (around 80k now) into. I have no idea if he found any blade matter in the IC and shook it out during the swap, but there doesn't appear to be any in there now. I have not dropped the oil pan. The vf52 is going to be replaced or rebuilt. Was planning on adding a catless up pipe and gutting the DP - then tune.The other owner was an older guy who likes to wrench around on cars. Didn't strike me as the drive hard and abuse it type. He had 2 outbacks he'd bought and 'refurbished' and offered to sell me either one - wasn't trying to push this one, in particular, on me as if it were junk he was trying to unload. This is probably posted in the wrong place - maybe even answered and I missed it somewhere in my research - I apologize in advance, if so. I did fahr_side's sticky: "6. Intercooler / intake manifold cleanup. If the compressor wheel has lost any vanes or parts of, take a look into the intercooler to see if they are loose in there. Nothing is likely to make it through the intercooler but better clean out any metal shards in there just in case. Anything that did make it through has either damaged something or not on it’s way into the exhaust. Either it did or it didn’t cause any damage." Should I just stop wasting my efforts now and plan on a new engine - or do planned repair / upgrades and roll the dice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 So it was the cold side that had chips in the compressor blade? Honestly with my personal experience in losing money on these I would rebuild or swap the turbo and enjoy it. There’s a guy on the board selling a used vf52 right now for 450 I think. I mean, if you click my build thread you can see what going down the rabbit hole gets you and it isn’t cheap. Can you post a pic of the turbo blades? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 It's on the intake side. No joke about the rabbit hole(s). I don't wanna do that. I'm not looking to crazy mod it, just drive. It's giving me an error trying to upload a photo. I'll try it later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 It's on the intake side. No joke about the rabbit hole(s). I don't wanna do that. I'm not looking to crazy mod it, just drive. It's giving me an error trying to upload a photo. I'll try it later. Reduce the picture size to 1040 pixels and 512k and it will probably load. Oh, and use the “go advanced” button and click the paper clip to load it as an attachment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 I cannot get it to upload with any resizing. Linked: https://imgur.com/a/2vxOyZH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 I cannot get it to upload with any resizing. Linked: https://imgur.com/a/2vxOyZH Whoa, that looks like something got sucked into the turbo. That doesn't look like it has anything to do with shaft play, which is what I expected to see. I would check for bits of that in the intake piping maybe stuck in the oil film in the throttle body or intercooler. Otherwise none of that would be in the oil. I would assume those bits would be stuck in the intercooler and not have made it to the combustion chamber. If it were my money I would just rebuild or replace the turbo and call it a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Yeah, I thought it looked pretty bad when I pulled it. Is it worth replacing the intercooler - or just trying to clean it out? I was intending on sending the 52 to Hill Country for a rebuild. Just didn't want to sink unnecessary $ into if if the consensus is I'm screwed already. I guess if any is in the oil a magnet isn't going to find it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 I would just rebuilt the turbo. I wouldn't worry about that damage affecting the engine. On my other turbo vehicle, this type of damage is common. A part of the intake is plastic and get brittle. Often from over tightening the hose clamps, a piece of plastic break off and damages the fin on the compressor side of the turbo (intake). Most of the time the pieces are small and just pass through the engine. You can remove the IC and flush it with a cleaner if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 missing a 10mm wrench? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Yeah, that turbo needs a rebuild. ouch. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Thanks ViscousSquirrel and others for the guidance! I feel a bit better about moving forward now. Hopefully IF any of those pieces made it through, they were small / soft enough to pass & get filtered out. As I initially reported - no idea how long it's been this way, but IF the results were catastrophic I'd think it would've manifested by now in other ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 I think you've been told, JmP6889928 is the one you want to send the turbo to for the rebuild. PM him for instructions for shipping. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Thank you Max Capacity. I believe from reading other’s experience he is best, but read where he’s on sabbatical & not on the forum much. I found his email someone posted in the same thread & reached out that way-with no response as of yet. I’ll try a pm tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 If Jon's not around, tuningalliance@gmail.com he will also rebuild the turbo. He (Mike) also happens to be who you want to use as a Tuner for these cars. He is that good. He can get parts and Cobb AP too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Update to the findings - there are flakes in the oil film in the intake. Does that change anyone’s assessment of rebuilding the turbo & carrying on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Update to the findings - there are flakes in the oil film in the intake. Does that change anyone’s assessment of rebuilding the turbo & carrying on? Nope. Carry on. The only difference I would recommend would be to take the intercooler and intake off and clean the heck out of everything. The further go down the rabbit hole of replacement the more expensive it gets. Don't waste money on "If"s or "Maybe's" you will regret it later. Put another way, if it isn't broke, don't fix it.". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 Rightyo. I'm good with that. Just wanted verification from those that've been there done that. I don't wanna price mods stupid beyond what the car is worth, considering what I believe to be a pretty good deal I got on the purchase price. I hope my expectations of a reliable DD with some decent pep are realistic. I'm figuring I'll wind up with around $1500 or so in a turbo rebuild, catless up, AP/tune, & misc hoses and gaskets I'll need to button it up. I'd consider the tactrix route to save some $ but I don't yet feel confident in my abilities to not really screw something up having never dabbled in tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 Nope. Carry on. The only difference I would recommend would be to take the intercooler and intake off and clean the heck out of everything. The further go down the rabbit hole of replacement the more expensive it gets. Don't waste money on "If"s or "Maybe's" you will regret it later. Put another way, if it isn't broke, don't fix it.". So I've been researching IM removal. That looks like heaps of fun.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 So I've been researching IM removal. That looks like heaps of fun.............. Misery, It’s what makes a Subaru, a Subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 If you remove the intake from the bottom of the TGV's at the head, disconnect the fuel lines from the screw type clamps on the left shock tower. and a couple other connections, you can remove it as a unit. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Here's another shot from the intake being removed when I had the engine out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 In your case, I would replace the banjo filter with a clean one before the turbo oil feed line. Metal bits have been known to get caught in the oil cooler and released at a later date. That banjo filter may help. or replace the oil line with one with a inline filter that's easy to clean/replace. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 Misery, It’s what makes a Subaru, a Subaru. Apparently, so. I had a BMW K bike that I tore into one winter. Just like you've warned with these, a 'simple' fix here leads to a "well, while I'm in here I may as well improve it". There were a couple of times I questioned whether or not I was gonna get that thing back together. BUT it's just like anything technical - patience and research are key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 In your case, I would replace the banjo filter with a clean one before the turbo oil feed line. Metal bits have been known to get caught in the oil cooler and released at a later date. That banjo filter may help. or replace the oil line with one with a inline filter that's easy to clean/replace. I've gotta at least replace the top portion of the hard line that goes into the turbo. That elbow right before the banjo was compromised at some point and silver soldered by the PO. I think I should operate under the assumption it was a crimp of some size that caused that leak. I guess now is the time to 'upgrade' the turbo oil lines. I recall thinking the IAG kit looked like a decent option. Is there something else I should consider? Is oil cooler replacement really worthwhile at this point? I just saw last night that the soft rubber lip around the turbo air inlet is torn, so I'm gonna replace that tube while I've got the intake off to clean it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 When the intake manifold is lifted the turbo intake tube will be easier to replace. The oil cooler, I think its one of those, cheap insurance to replace it, I know its like $240.00 but the piece of mind...may be worth it. The IAG kit or if your handy, you can buy the parts and make up your own oil line with a inline filter. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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