Tehnation Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 ahhh crapola, is there a full ac o ring set.... i do not want to sit here hunting down every o ring.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 found it https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2005,legacy,2.5l+h4+turbocharged,1430733,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+system+o-rings%2C+seals%2C+&+gasket+kits,13290 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 (edited) Condenser, Went with tyc, cause they made my radiator and it still works https://www.amazon.com/TYC-3314-Parallel-Replacement-Condenser/dp/B000IYSJCO Expansion valve, got a denso, cause its denso https://www.amazon.com/Denso-475-2046-C-Expansion-Valve/dp/B01L03RAEO Seals, whatever its just rubber https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-26786-Gasket-System/dp/B001B6YQ98 pag 46 oil, supposedly same as nd - 8 , denso says its an equivalent... works for me! https://www.amazon.com/FJC-2484-PAG-Oil-fl/dp/B0002JMEJ4 about 115 total Edited August 5, 2020 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 A small price to pay for angelic cold air blessed by the gods themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 I have a brand new set of 8ft ac gauges if your are in need of them. Some compressors come pre-filled with oil, so pay attention to any stickers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 If you replace it with a denso unit they almost always come filled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 6, 2020 Author Share Posted August 6, 2020 I didn't plan on changing my compressor, I was planning to just drain it and put in a bit less oil, to compensate for residual. For 60 bucks changing the condenser made sense, especially now that I am going to dismantle the system in the engine bay. I also change that little canister as well, the cylinder thing on the side, having a brain fart and can't remember what its called. But my compressor had oil in it so it should be fine. I'm just wondering if I should have changed the evaporator core while I had my dash apart.... now i'm wondering if I should change the compressor as well... hmmmm... I'll play with my old one first and then decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 When you pull your condenser just open up that canister (the drier) and inspect the silica pack. If the compressor is failing the metal will eventually end up there. If there isn’t any sign that it’s failing and it’s not making any noise then why change it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up a little dye to put in the system if the oil or refrigerant doesn't have any in it. Also, that pag oil is nasty shit, I think it's like brake fluid, so careful not to spill/drip any on anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 6, 2020 Author Share Posted August 6, 2020 And just to kick me in the balls when I'm down, the ac in my suv went.... now i really have to shell out the cash... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 6, 2020 Author Share Posted August 6, 2020 Another question! What did you do with the unit in the dashboard, the evaporator coil? Did you just spray some brake cleaner and push air through it as well or just air? I assume you just used the 2 lines at the expansion valve junction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 Ironically enough, the suction line on my outback blew out on me today. I blow it out with compressed air mostly to get the excess oil out of it. Obviously you will need to put a vacuum on the system for at the very least an hour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 Once the system is pulled down to -30hg, there is no need to pull a vacuum for more than a couple more minutes. The correct amount of oil, correct oil and proper refrigerant capacity is critical for proper operation and longevity. I generally recommend the DIY to have a professional charge the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2020 Author Share Posted August 7, 2020 charging the system is the easiest part! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saltysubie Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 (edited) Condenser, Went with tyc, cause they made my radiator and it still works https://www.amazon.com/TYC-3314-Parallel-Replacement-Condenser/dp/B000IYSJCO Expansion valve, got a denso, cause its denso https://www.amazon.com/Denso-475-2046-C-Expansion-Valve/dp/B01L03RAEO Seals, whatever its just rubber https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-26786-Gasket-System/dp/B001B6YQ98 pag 46 oil, supposedly same as nd - 8 , denso says its an equivalent... works for me! https://www.amazon.com/FJC-2484-PAG-Oil-fl/dp/B0002JMEJ4 about 115 total The o-ring material is actually pretty important, not just rubber. For this application, it should be HNBR, for compatibility and longevity with that oil/refrigerant combination. Whenever you have the system open up that long, with all the parts you are replacing, it is also a really good idea to replace the filter/drier unit too. I personally would not put it back together without replacing that too. The inside of a refrigerant system must be kept as clean as possible to ensure long life. On commercial systems, they use special copper piping (ACR) that comes to the construction site bagged and capped, filled with nitrogen. Then they join it by brazing with a nitrogen purge to keep the interior of the pipe really clean. The vacuum part is done after everything is put back together, just prior to charging. Like said before, it allows water to vaporize (by lowering is boiling point in a vacuum) to help get it out of the system. You are also removing air that is non-condensible (air would result in decreased efficiency). Moisture (and contaminants) inside refrigerant systems are your enemy. Everyone seems to have different opinions on how to pull the vacuum. On commercial jobs, it’s pretty common to pull it down to between 300 to 400 microns vacuum, and then stop the vacuum pump and make sure it holds for 15 minutes to an hour (will rise but shouldn’t be more than about 1000 microns). A lot of the vacuum pumps can now do between 50 to 75 microns. If you can pull it down to 50 microns, more power to you, you’re getting more water out. Hard to get though and usually takes a long time. Using something like Nylog (blue) can help (just need a drop at the connection, don’t use much). Hopefully the compressor seal is still good too. The HVAC gauge sets (dial type) can’t read microns. You need to have a separate micron gauge. Also, you want to use a vacuum pump meant for this application (HVAC), 2-stage should be good. If you’ve lost all your charge already, DIY is an option, but if you haven’t lost the charge, please use an AC specialist shop or at least have them recover the refrigerant and they can purge the oil for you too or at least let you know how much they recovered and how much more you need to put back (I’m more inclined to use fresh oil myself though). I think this is one case, in doing your own wrenching, where it is worth paying someone with the correct equipment to do it. Be careful with using compressed air unless you have a very good dryer and filter on your system. Compressed air can introduce a good amount of moisture (and potentially contaminants) into your system that is difficult to pull out. Make sure everything is dry as possible before reassembly. You can do it, but water in the system WILL reduce the service life. Just wanted to add a couple notes for someone who finds this thread in the future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited August 24, 2020 by Saltysubie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 filter drier? thats built into the condenser isn't it? That's new, it's already changed. The charge was lost long ago when I pulled the dashboard and hvac unit out to change the heater core. System is already complete and still holding vacuum, I finished this job a couple weeks ago, it holds vacuum for days with minimal to no loss, I think the only loss I'm getting is when I actually connect the gauge. I changed everything except the evaporator core, I would have and should have done it when I had it staring me in the face and easily accessible when I pulled the main unit out but I wasn't thinking that far ahead. Hindsight. I drained the old oil, put in some fresh oil. Put it under vacuum. Just need to charge it when I get the car etuned well enough to drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 the ac on my 05 wagon failed last year when the condenser got a hole. Using the ac recovery unit made the process trivial. +1 for having an ac shop do the recovery and fill. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 And my compressor is borked.... clutch wont engage, I guess sitting out in elements for 4-5 years didn't help. Ordered a denso from rockauto. Lets try this one more time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 Hmm, just pulled the compressor, looks like it was fine, just seized up a bit. The rust and corrosion plus the vacuum seems like it was preventing it from spinning/engaging, once I had it out and spun it by hand for a bit then it broke free and worked the new oil in there.... new compressor is coming today, so might as well install the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 Ice cold baby! Ice cold! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 The most important part of your car functions again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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