centric pads - not fitting bracket

[Riptide]

I am working on replacing rotors and pads on my 2005 LGT. I bought centric stuff. The rotors seem fine, they fit right in place no problem. The pads are a different story.

 

 

Getting both tongues to pop into the groove is very difficult. I've only been able to do it with the bracket off the car at this point. Is this supposed to take this much effort? I am using the hardware they came with.

 

 

 

This is the first brake job I've done. Starting to wonder if I should return these and just get OEM pads instead.

 

 

 

Part # 105.10780

https://www.apcautotech.com/part-detail/10510780?year=2005&make=subaru&model=legacy

[apexi]

Any junk/build up in the brackets where the clips snap into?

 

[Max Capacity]

The pads needs to slide freely

[Riptide]

It's interesting to me, how old brake pads and hardware will somehow 'deform' over time to fit caked on dust and/or rust. Put new hardware and pads on, and even if to tolerance there can somehow be a problem.

 

 

Regardless, I'm going to try and get down to metal on the carrier bracket today and eliminate that as a potential source of the issue. If I still have problems, I'll try the old brake hardware. Beyond that point, I'll get a set of OEM pads on the way asap.

 

 

Does anyone know what the issue is here? When I search for front brake pad set for this car (2005 LGT LTD Sedan) I get multiple part numbers for different front brake kits. For example:

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy/Disc-Brake-Pad-Set-Front/60015053/26296AG051.html

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy/Disc-Brake-Pad-Set-Front/49235215/26296FG010.html

[boxkita]

do the old & new pads match in size and thickness?

I used to change pads at the track before heading home. Sometimes a rubber mallet was needed to persuade the pads in/out. A light tap is enough, anymore than that, you probably have the wrong size.

 

if the brackets are dirty or corroded, they should be cleaned before putting in new pads. Wear a mask when cleaning tho. The dust is bad for you.

[Riptide]

The kit is the correct centric part number for the car, and eyeballing the pads they look correct. The old pads came out without too much trouble, much easier than these new ones are going on.

[boxkita]

correct part number and correct pad can be 2 different things. the fit tolerance is tight. if you have a harbor freight caliper, you might measure to see if the same size.

 

if the brackets are clean, the new ones should pop in easily.

[boxkita]

do the pads fit if you don't use the springs? just pad into bracket?

[Riptide]

I cleaned the inside of the bracket now and we have bare metal showing. It seems to have helped a little bit, but they still do not slide right in.

 

 

I feel like I don't know what I'm doing here and am evidently clueless. For one thing, there are metal parts sticking out on the brake pad and I don't understand how they are supposed to fit.

 

Attaching a photo here. The two parts in red circled. One of these (the flat piece I think) is the wear indicator. I'm not sure how it fits, does it ride behind the metal wing on the hardware or in front of it.

 

 

I'm also not sure about the pointed metal piece here with the hook on the end. Does it ride in the groove or is it supposed to be pushing up against the bracket from behind the pad?

[boxkita]

scroll to 7:38 in this video. it shows the pad being inserted with the tabs (springs) being pinched into plsce.

 

the wear indicator faces the disk. It will squeal when the pad wears down.

[Riptide]

Thanks. It's confusing because on youtube I've seen people do it without pinching those in underneath and instead they have it stuck outside against the bracket. This is how the video you posted shows it. However the existing install has that tab riding underneath the pad and in the groove, not bent back and pushing up against the outside of the bracket like in the video. One of those broke off trying to get the pad in again so I lost my temper and threw them into the garbage. I'm ordering subaru geniune pads now. Better luck next time I guess.

 

 

Question is, which of these kits is the right one? When I search for front brake pad set for this car (2005 LGT LTD Sedan) I get multiple part numbers for different front brake kits:

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...6296AG051.html

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...6296FG010.html

 

 

I may have to call the dealer and get that figured out, need a set of pads here by next weekend.

Edited June 14, 2020 by Riptide

[boxkita]

try this video:

start at 7:22. he shows the clips and how they work.

Chris Fix video series are good stuff.

************

im not a subaru tech, so what I'm telling you is on you.

 

I pull all the metal tabs off and pop the pads in. A racer taught me that years ago. I've never had an issue. You'll have to monitor pad thickness on your own (hf or napa sells the plastic guages).

 

After my maintenance contract ran out, I started using Hawk pads. Never used anything else again. ymmv.

Hawk HPS Subaru Legacy GT Front Brake Pad Set HB533F.668 - $88/set

Hawk HPS Subaru Legacy GT Rear Brake Pad Set HB434F.543 - $80/set

Edited June 14, 2020 by boxkita
add better video

[DaveWaters]

This is how the clips position. From what I can tell the spring is there to help pull the pad back off the rotor. There’s a little gap for the squealer to fit through. I orient the pads with the clips at the bottom so when the spring pulls back its on the side feeding the rotor when moving forward. I can’t recall if they could be oriented the other way or not.

 

[Riptide]

Thanks. Seems a little counter intuitive to only have that spring on one end of the pad. In theory seems like you'd want one at both ends for even pulling force.

[DaveWaters]

I agree. Perhaps some engineer found that it drops brake temps by a few degrees or maybe it’s just to add tension to the pad to keep it from vibrating/squealing. All I know is it’s a g-damned balancing act getting the caliper back on and keeping both pads pressed in without getting grease on the rotor.

[Riptide]

Set of stock pads and hardware getting here tomorrow, p/n 26296AG051. If I can't make this work now, then the only one to blame is you know who.

 

 

How important is torquing the hardware back to spec? Not sure what they are. On the youtube videos, hardly anyone seems to do it they just snug it down and that's it.

[boxkita]

use a 3/4" air gun and get those suckers squeaky tight. yeah no.

 

I torque mine to spec. The person that taught me brakes did it by feel. Given those 4 bolts (per corner) are yer brakes... However over tightening doesn't make you safer. A hf torque wrench is <$20.

[Max Capacity]

In all my years working on cars, I have never torqued the brakes, I'm 65y/o.

 

Make sure you use anti-seize compound on all the bolt threads.

 

FWIW, I just put Carquest pads on the wagon front and rear, from Advance Auto Parts, they fit and work great.

Edited June 17, 2020 by Max Capacity

[Riptide]

When I removed the pins from the caliper bracket I noticed that one of them seemed to have some type of rubber sleeve on it and the other did not. I've got the two mixed up now, and I'm not sure which caliper pin hole took the one that has the sleeve. Does it matter? Edited June 18, 2020 by Riptide

[apexi]

Almost positive that goes on the bottom, double checked the parts diagram and it seems to agree (26288D)

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54106_6024737/FRONT-BRAKE-17INCH/B13-262-02.html

[Riptide]

Thanks, I appreciate that. Found the torque specs too, 59 ft lbs. for the bracket bolts though if I can't get my 3/8 torque wrench in there I'll just get it snugged down best effort. 19 ft lbs. on the caliper bolts. Edited June 18, 2020 by Riptide

[DaveWaters]

If you’re also doing the rear, the torque specs are 39ftlbs for bracket and 19ftlbs caliper. Smaller bracket bolts in the rear.

 

I prefer to torque everything to spec. I also put never-seize on just about everything. Both make it way easier to deal with in the future.