pinesol Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Hi Everyone, I am in the midst of removing the engine for timing belt replacement, head studs, new downpipe, new seals, and a bunch of other things. I'm to the point where everything is disconnected, the turbo/manifold and exhaust are off, and all bellhousing bolts are removed, with the exception of the 2 nuts which are loose but still there so it doesn't fall when it inevitably lets loose. All of that said, I straight up can not get it to separate. I've tried cranking on it with a pry bar against the subframe near the oil pan, hitting the bellhousing, shaking the engine vigorously back and forward and side to side, lifting up and down to varying degrees, and hammering some tools between the engine and trans at the top. All to no avail. Anyone have any other suggestions? How high should I be lifting this thing to give myself the best chances? I think I'll probably pick up a set of varying thickness chisels left to my own devices and see if they'll hammer in easier than the previous tools I was trying to use. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Hi Everyone, I am in the midst of removing the engine for timing belt replacement, head studs, new downpipe, new seals, and a bunch of other things. I'm to the point where everything is disconnected, the turbo/manifold and exhaust are off, and all bellhousing bolts are removed, with the exception of the 2 nuts which are loose but still there so it doesn't fall when it inevitably lets loose. All of that said, I straight up can not get it to separate. I've tried cranking on it with a pry bar against the subframe near the oil pan, hitting the bellhousing, shaking the engine vigorously back and forward and side to side, lifting up and down to varying degrees, and hammering some tools between the engine and trans at the top. All to no avail. Anyone have any other suggestions? How high should I be lifting this thing to give myself the best chances? I think I'll probably pick up a set of varying thickness chisels left to my own devices and see if they'll hammer in easier than the previous tools I was trying to use. Thanks!I had a heck of a time getting them separated as well. I would take the nuts all the way off and spray penetrating oil around the bell-housing as well as in the holes going to the studs and dowels. A dead blow hammer may also help. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 I use chisels. Just have to take care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 I use chisels. Just have to take care. This is the only way I've ever been able to get one apart that has never been separated. A strong, thin chisel is key to getting a small split to occur, so you can use a bigger one to really get it split. It will not just fall out so you can take nuts off. Once out, I buff any minor gouging caused by the chisels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 Do you have an engine leveler for the engine lift? It will make removal and installation much easier especially if you don't have someone to help you. Initially I attempted it without leveler. The service manual suggests rocking the engine back and forth. I started with a putty knife to break it apart. I tried rocking and it separated slightly, I tried using screwed drivers wedged in between further separated, it helped a little, but I could get any more than 1/4" apart. I tried pry bar against the motor mount. I was exhausted and gave up for the day. I thought about it for the night and decided the getting the engine angle correct was likely my issue. I bought an engine leveler and paid attention to the angle of the engine and rocked the engine out, it took a few minutes once I got it right. I think the putty knife, engine leveler and rocking the engine will work. Paying attention the angle of the engine when re-installing the engine made a big different as well getting the transmission input shaft into the clutch as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinesol Posted May 24, 2020 Author Share Posted May 24, 2020 I do have a load leveler, but haven't been able to get it to the point where it is helping since it is so stuck to the transmission. It's weird. I've separated engines from transmissions before, but have never had this much trouble. I gave up for the day but will get back to it tomorrow hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 Same as everyone else said. It took me 3-4 hours straight of hammering and prying to get a 1/4" gap all around. Went back together in 30 seconds... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 It makes me feel a little better that I was not the only one of who struggled separating them When I search for separating Subaru Engines form the transmission, I only found a few threads on this forum and NASOIC about a real them apart. The basically said you have to break the corrosion between them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinesol Posted May 25, 2020 Author Share Posted May 25, 2020 Finally, success! I basically felt like I was being too hard on it Friday. Then I caught a video on NASIOC of a guy using a meat cleaver and one insanely hard wack to separate it. You can get berated for basically no reason on NASIOC and the replies were mostly positive, so I decided to just really go to town on it using a set of screwdrivers as chisels and it eventually let loose, then it was just a matter of prying it and wiggling it the rest of the way. I may do a build thread. It'll take a long time probably, but I have GTeaser's pre-production Nameless DP, ARP head studs and gaskets, new timing set and water pump, STi t-stat, cyl 4 cooling mod, new cam and crank seals, front sway bar, TSK3 and Torque Solution clutch fork/pivot as well as a number of other things already stockpiled. I believe I'm also going to pick up an ACT HDSS, IAG AOS, and aluminum rad while it is down.... depending on how long the work takes (and thus how much money I have time to accrue). Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decoy Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 Heck yeah dude! Way to persevere! So awesome that you included a success pic too! Well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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